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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 322 seems to drain the battery when using the mower deck, otherwise, it'll run forever. If I mow with it for an hour the battery will drain so low the tractor dies. When I first noticed this I thought I had a bad battery so I bought a new battery. It still does it. I know it's the drain from the electric clutch because without the mower deck use, No problem.
Can the clutch be repaired or does it need to be replaced?
Btw, the alternator is charging.
 

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Jerry, Before repairing or replacing anything, take a reading of coil ohms. About 3.5 -4 ohms is good, 2.5 or less is drawing your battery down. Another check is start engine & warm. Measure battery voltage at battery posts at full throttle... should be around 14dc volts. Put 75-100 pounds on seat and turn pto on... battery voltage should not be less than 12. WATCH FEET if deck is mounted!!!!

One quick question, you said alternator is charging, did you check AC volts and DC at regulator? Bob
 

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AND! One more comment on repairing or replacing clutch coil. Do a search in here for rewinding clutch coil, AND from the Home page, click Technical FAQ archives, them click, "Rewinding clutch coil". Rewinding is the only way to repair the coil. Bob
 

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Hello Jerry,
Just read this thread and am wondering if you've solved the problem.
Experienced same\similar in 2009 with a 318. Long story short - the front PTO got removed, taken apart and it
turned out the field winding coil was faulty. That part was replaced with new, all put back together and then all well ever after.
(The tractor was sold in 2016. E-mail from buyer in 2019 = still working A-OK, handling the 50" mower deck, 49 snow thrower
and 30 hydraulic tiller.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm sorry guys, I am trying to get my wife's She Shed finished on the inside and I haven't done anything to the 322 yet. I'll keep this thread in mind when I get a chance to work on it. No hurry for now, I won't be using the mowing deck for a few months anyway. thank you for your replies.
 

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Jerry,

Let us know when you get back to fixing this. You asked about repairing or rebuilding the clutch and Bob gave the right advice about rewinding the coil -- thought I would just post a direct link to the article:

Post some pictures of the shed while we are all waiting...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today I decided to buckle down and service my 322 at 1931 hours, since I hadn't changed oil or greased in 100 hours and 3 years.
After a good power wash, fluid changes, greasing, adjusting the front axle, and removing the front 54" plow blade, I started looking into my problem with the pto operation sucking the battery dead after a while of mowing.
The alternator checks out displaying 50 volt at the pigtail so by the manual it is good.
But I did discover two problem areas in the circled picture..
Hmmmmmm.....
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Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Cable Gas
 

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Did that fix/upgrade a year or so ago to my 322...replace crusty/toasty connectors and wire on both locations. Does your 322 have the silver heat shield at the bracket at the rear end of the muffler, end closest to the alt? I'll try and post a pix tomorrow...I'm late for evening artillery drills with the shop supervisor.
I think that condition is due to the under hood heat it generates, air flow is from rear of tractor thru side vents on operator's pedestal, thru the rad and pushed out the front of the engine side covers. I run mine in summer without the side panels for that reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did that fix/upgrade a year or so ago to my 322...replace crusty/toasty connectors and wire on both locations. Does your 322 have the silver heat shield at the bracket at the rear end of the muffler,

No it doesn't. Please post picture if what it should look like. I believe you're right about running without the side shields tho, it gets pretty hot in there...
 

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Jerry and Tmac,

Some/most of the connector and wire damage in your pictures is most likely due to a high level of current from the alternator. Check to see if your battery is overcharging (do you need to add electrolyte often?) There is a Deere service bulletin on this issue from 1991 showing how to solve it. I will attach it here as a PDF. Its root cause is voltage drops in the harness causing the voltage regulator to improperly sense the charge condition of the battery and just keep charging heavily... These drops are mostly in the key switch, the fuse and fuse holders, and the harness and connections themselves. Below is a diagram on how to add a relay to address this -- it can be the same small cube relay as used in the starter improvement kit but it gets wired differently.
Slope Rectangle Font Parallel Schematic


Definitely renew/replace the connector parts in the harness that have heat damage, as they lose their spring temper in that heat and will not have a high enough retention force on the mating tab. Let me know if you have additional questions on this fix...

Chuck
 

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tmac,

Yes I recall that thread -- but still don't remember seeing a shield on either of my 322 tractors...maybe I am not nearly as observant as I thought I was. 😕

The shield part number is M802386 (not sure why I did not find that part when the other thread was being discussed.) I recall that it is not shown in the engine manual, but is clearly seen in the PC2149 on plate B13.
Here is one for sale new -- about $98.

As I mentioned in the referenced thread, heat tends to rise and the damaged connections in question are below the manifold and shield, so not too certain how much the melted connector bodies are from engine derived heat and how much from excessive currents, but given the localized damage I would believe it is the latter...
Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've never had that shield on my 322, Didn't know it existed. I tend to agree with Chuck that it looks more like electrical damage than heat.
I'm 3 days away from a trip to Kentucky so when I get back in a few weeks I'll tear into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Worked on it a little this evening.
This rectifier thing is toast.
I guess I'll get out my parts manual and see about ordering one..
I rechecked my alternator and it measures 39 volts at the pigtail, not 50. Im not sure why I was seeing 50v before...
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Jerry,

Unless your charging system is not working properly, there may not be any internal issues with that regulator. It certainly got hot however! These are expensive and you don't need to replace it if the issues were external, like the harness or battery condition. Once you clean up the connections and ensure that the contacts are replaced as needed on the harness side such that spring tension of the individual contact is not in question, then you should not experience any additional heating. But do confirm the end point charge voltage -- perhaps you need the relay mod discussed earlier in this thread to help the regulator get a proper sense voltage to avoid overcharge. See my post #14 above.

Two more things: 1 - How old is your ignition switch? If it is the one that came with your tractor from the factory, just plan on replacing it as it likely has worn/oxidized internal contacts. Inspect its mating connections for signs f any corrosion or heat evidence as well. 2 - how old is the battery itself? An end of life battery can have individual cells that are partially shorted and make the charging system supply a continuous, high amperage to it as seems evidenced by your toasty wires. Battery replacement is a normal part of tractor maintenance, but we all seem to wait for obvious failure (such as unable to start the engine...) to replace one when sometimes it needs attention sooner.

By the way, the two pin connector to the alternator should have a mating housing for those two crisped wires at that location -- did it melt completely away? There is no polarity requirement on these two wires since it is AC voltage at that point, but a housing should be present. Note that it was the connector half that has the spring (female) connectors that got hottest, so it all may have started with a loss of spring tension from heat as the current was elevated for a sustained time.

Let us know what you find...

Chuck
 
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