Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 20 of 60 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 322 seems to drain the battery when using the mower deck, otherwise, it'll run forever. If I mow with it for an hour the battery will drain so low the tractor dies. When I first noticed this I thought I had a bad battery so I bought a new battery. It still does it. I know it's the drain from the electric clutch because without the mower deck use, No problem.
Can the clutch be repaired or does it need to be replaced?
Btw, the alternator is charging.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm sorry guys, I am trying to get my wife's She Shed finished on the inside and I haven't done anything to the 322 yet. I'll keep this thread in mind when I get a chance to work on it. No hurry for now, I won't be using the mowing deck for a few months anyway. thank you for your replies.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today I decided to buckle down and service my 322 at 1931 hours, since I hadn't changed oil or greased in 100 hours and 3 years.
After a good power wash, fluid changes, greasing, adjusting the front axle, and removing the front 54" plow blade, I started looking into my problem with the pto operation sucking the battery dead after a while of mowing.
The alternator checks out displaying 50 volt at the pigtail so by the manual it is good.
But I did discover two problem areas in the circled picture..
Hmmmmmm.....
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Cloud
Tire Wheel Tractor Vehicle Automotive tire
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Cable Gas
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did that fix/upgrade a year or so ago to my 322...replace crusty/toasty connectors and wire on both locations. Does your 322 have the silver heat shield at the bracket at the rear end of the muffler,

No it doesn't. Please post picture if what it should look like. I believe you're right about running without the side shields tho, it gets pretty hot in there...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've never had that shield on my 322, Didn't know it existed. I tend to agree with Chuck that it looks more like electrical damage than heat.
I'm 3 days away from a trip to Kentucky so when I get back in a few weeks I'll tear into it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Worked on it a little this evening.
This rectifier thing is toast.
I guess I'll get out my parts manual and see about ordering one..
I rechecked my alternator and it measures 39 volts at the pigtail, not 50. Im not sure why I was seeing 50v before...
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive exterior Bumper
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you Chuck for your insight.
The "mating housing" you refer to, I have no idea what happened to it, probably did melt away. I'll be looking for a replacement.
The ignition switch is more than likely the original, I dunno. I'll replace it too.
As far as the rectifier goes, it's going to have to cost more than say $300 before I won't replace it, my ocd wouldn't let me remount that old one and feel good about it. I assume you feel the damage couldn't be caused BY THE RECTIFIER?
The battery is just 1 year old, I replaced it last summer when I started having trouble with the other 3 year old battery draining, which since then tests out to be good after a charge it will maintain.
Before I do as you suggest in post #14 as the relay modification, I want to fix the obvious, then test the voltage, coil ohms, and everything else you guys have suggested. I love this tractor and I want it repaired and working like it always has.
I'll keep plugging along and I appreciate any and a help I get. If I don't update here for a while it's because we have to head to Kentucky for a couple weeks here in 2 days.
I'll be anxious to get back and work on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well, We spent 20 days roaming Kansas in our Camper with some friends, came home for a week, then went to Kentucky for the month of June, and since July 5th have been trying to catch up on yard work and other projects around here I seem to attract.
I finally ordered a new Voltage rectifier for my 322 for only $29. MAYBE I'll get it fixed before winter...although... it's not a priority. Sometime in the next week or so our new washer and dryer are coming and I have to plumb those in since she wants to move them from the old spot... ugh... wish me luck...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Got the new rectifier mounted.
Same as before, the wires at the rectifier and the rectifier itself gets very hot. I shut it down before it got melted hit.
Alternator putting out 47 to 48 volts from its plug wires.
Battery is 12.7 volts but measuring 14.3 volts at wot.
PTO clutch unplugged.
My next step is to hard wire the Alternator , doing away with its plug.
Installing new single pole connections on each rectifier wire.
Clean every ground and wire connection on the tractor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Chuck. I did not replace the connections in the Alternator plug OR the wire harness plug.
Ya, that's my next approach....I think you're correct about the connections losing their spring grip.
I'll keep chipping away at it. Yes, the Voltage regulator/Rectifier.
I do believe it is just a matter of poor connections. I'm hoping after I get the heat problem solved, my pto clutch is fine... I think this problem was causing my battery to die and then the pto being on led me to believe it was the problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Electrical wiring Gas
After carefully rewiring....and adding a black clip on ground wire straight to the battery, The regulator still gets extremely hot...I mean melting hot. The wires stay cool.
Still the meter shows proper charging from the alternator and also the battery..
I'm just going to keep messing with it but probably won't post anymore til it's fixed...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Chuck,
I don't have a clamp on ammeter nor the crimping tool you show.
The clip on ground wire doesn't make a difference when measuring voltage to the battery, I assume the black ground wire in the harness is doing its job but I added it on there for added ground while testing.
When the red battery wire is not connected, the regulator stays cool. When I connect the red wire the regulator becomes hot within seconds.
Within 1 minute, the unit is too hot to touch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Neither Alternator leads are showing continuity to the engine block.
The GREEN WIRE shows continuity to the engine block.
The BROWN WIRE shows continuity to the engine block.
This is with each wire separately off the regulator. This doesn't seem like it should be that way?
Voltage coming from green wire while running is 13.11V wot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The red wire always reads the same as the battery since it comes right off the starter cable from the battery? I can't make it change... but I am only measuring voltage...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I think I'll just remove all body parts and start looking for bare wires and bad connections... I dunno, Maybe this regulator is a cheapo $22 off Amazon, no good. Maybe I burnt it up already... I could write a book on why this isn't going faster..We got home from 30 days in Kentucky and since then it's been nothing but crap needing fixed, mowed, done, etc.... Waiting on a new washer and dryer that she wants on the opposite side of the room so plumbing and drilling holes etc...We've been doing our laundry in my antique Maytag Wringer washing machine outside for 3 weeks now......Yesterday wife was having chest pains and we spent 4 hours at the ER. Her heart was going 170 beats per minute for over an hour and they had to stop her heart with medicine and restart it in order to reset the rythem. She's ok today but I had to keep an eye on her and be her slave today between tractor work...
I've been studying the TM1591 along with the pics you show and trying to work on it but I get discouraged easily.... Today I set up a 10' x 10' popup shade to work under because it's 110 degrees every day and I have no garage to work in.
I was able to get an hour's worth of wiring done before the wind came up and almost destroyed my makeshift garage....I rescued it and put away my stuff just in time for the Tornado monsoon to hit..... ugh.... Anyways... Sooner or later hopefully we'll get it figured out....
Oh, and I did check the + battery cable to make sure it wasn't shorting out....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Quote:
(Jerry, did you install the relay the Chuck mentioned on post #14. I did on my 332 and so far it been working... good luck!)

I have not...yet. After over 30 years and almost 2000 hours it shouldn't all of a sudden need a relay installed but... it may come to that.

Chuck,
I'll see about getting an amp Guage from a parts store. I'm 45+ miles from anything like that.
My battery isn't even 1 year old since I replaced it. I have a load tester I'll hook it up today. I'm going to rig another RED jumper wire from the regulator to the battery BYPASSING the starter, and see what that does...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Just came back in from doing the jumper wire test. The regulator got hot enough to melt the beginning of the jumper wire before I shut it off.
The battery load test was good.
Measuring instrument Font Audio equipment Gadget Tool
g
Here's what I'm going to do now.
I'm going to order another Regulator, get a multimeter for amps like you show, and see what that does.
Here is the meter I have now and it doesn't go high enough in amp measurements.
I'm at a stand still until........
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
Top