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Jerry,

I see that you are following Henry's thread on adding the relay to his 332 due to overcharging -- that is a good thread to read through.

You can easily and completely simulate the results of adding the relay by doing the following: Remove the green wire from your VR (you may want to tape over the wire end connector to ensure it does not contact any other metal while it is disconnected...) Then you can run a completely separate wire from the sense terminal on the VR where the green wire had been connected directly to the battery + terminal -- do this carefully as you would with any direct and non-fused wire off the battery directly. This added jumper simulates the effect of the contacts on the relay fix for battery overcharge and isolates the circuit from all harness issues that may be present. Because unlike the relay, this connection will be active as long as you have it connected to the battery terminal -- so do not leave it there after you do your test.

Start the tractor and see if this has any effect on the presence of the unwanted 18 volt overcharge. If it does, there is something funky with the harness sense wire -- if it does not have any effect, then we keep looking for the root cause and the relay will not help this issue (it is still a good thing to do to any aging 322 tractor, however...)

One other thing -- since we don't know the detail of the internals of the VR, you might want to try removing the brown wire to do another set of over-voltage tests...this terminal is an output of the VR that drives the battery lamp on the dash, but if there is some cross connection or failure in the harness brown wire, it may be feeding a wrong voltage back into the VR.

I really feel badly that we have been so unable to find the issue up to this point...When/if you feel like doing these added tests let us know the results...but wait until you have recovered from the frustrations up until now. Hang in there!

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Hi Chuck,
Thanks. Yes, I am just reading and figuring out what to do next. I haven't bought a relay or anything else. I printed out the service bulletin (DTAC Solution Number: M5927) for this problem and according to it, even John Deere suggests the relay and replacing the VR with part number M805239 VR.
But first I will do more testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I'm afraid to speak too soon but....my 3rd but different brand of voltage regulator seems to have fixed my problem... I hope.
My first 2 new Regulators cost $22 each.
I upgraded to a $30 regulator and...well, so far its doing fine...
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I'll up date after a couple days of hard usage.
My PTO seems to be fine also.....fingers crossed.
 

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Jerry,

Thanks for hanging in there (especially during the phone calls and in the Conversation exchanges on this topic...) You did careful measurements on the regulator output during idle and full speed operation which pointed to a breakdown in the regulator at full operating conditions -- it is always difficult to find - and believe - an issue with a failing 'new' part, but in the end we believed the meters. The new (and different vendor) regulator behaves much more like how it is expected to work, so it looks like the root causes have been identified. Keep us posted on how it continues to work...and thanks for closing the loop on your progress and success.

Chuck
 

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Jerry, congrats on hanging in there on the fix. I realize you are probably wanting to get some work done with the tractor rather than more fixing but I have one more idea. Since the charging voltage has been the issue on this all along, you may think about mounting a little cube voltmeter like this one... https://www.amazon.com/4-0-30v-Digital-Display-Voltage-Voltmeter/dp/B00B689UGA

You can find all kinds of them for less than $10 and since you don't want to bounce around your nice new Klein meter, I just thought it might give you some confidence if you put one of these (even with double stick tape if needed) near dash and you could monitor voltage anytime it is running. They use a few mA so you want to monitor a point that is at 0V when not running to not draw battery down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Jerry, congrats on hanging in there on the fix. I realize you are probably wanting to get some work done with the tractor rather than more fixing but I have one more idea. Since the charging voltage has been the issue on this all along, you may think about mounting a little cube voltmeter like this one... https://www.amazon.com/4-0-30v-Digital-Display-Voltage-Voltmeter/dp/B00B689UGA...

Thank You for your comments.
I actually have a nice digital meter very similar to that one you showed. I bought it for my camper batteries and never did install it. I got it out and read on it that it's for indoor use only, not waterproof..
I'll probably not worry about a Guage, Either it works or it doesn't. Just another gadget to maintain...lol.
Thanks anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Wrapping up this thread for anyone still reading it, it appears my problem is solved. After throwing money at it it seems to be within tolerable specs.
I replaced the key switch, the alternator, bought 2 voltage Regulators before the 3rd one I bought works fine, the battery is 1 year old although my older battery still checks out fine, and the pto seems to be ok. I installed a piece of 1/4" cdx plywood between the battery and the engine and that really made a difference in battery heat.
I mowed with the tractor for over an hour and nothing burnt up...so...
Through this whole process I've learned quite a bit thankfully. Thanks to everyone who has been here with comments and suggestions.
Until next time.....
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Update...Again.
My last post I was thinking everything is "Close Enough for Jerry Work" as I was getting voltage at the battery of 15.5 to 15.6ish when the lights and PTO were running WOT. A little high but within acceptable range.
Yesterday I received the Relay I ordered a few days back. This afternoon I tackled the install although I'm not completely done yet as when I get time again I have to remove the mowing deck and run my wires up underneath. As of this writing, I have it bolted on and using jumper wires tested it out.
I am happy to report its doing as promised by you all. WOT with Lights and PTO running it holds a consistent 14.20 to 14.3ish charging status. Even when the lights and / or the pto is off, it holds pretty steady at 14.27 volts.
YAAAAAA!!!.
In my picture you can see I mounted mine straight below the muffler inside the frame just ahead of the motor mount.
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can finish this nightmare... ha.
Thanks guys...
Jerry
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