[jmiller1007]

Hi All,
Just bought a 322 and have put about 5 hours on it and I just shredded the fan belt. Has anyone here done this job? I have been able to find anything on it but one deleted thread. It looks like a real chore. Anyone help or tips would be appreciated. Also is there anything I should look for once I get this machine taken apart?

Thank you all,
Josh


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[chuckv]

Josh,

I just replied to your other thread over on GTT, but will copy it here for completeness:

The below is the only information in the TM1591 about the fan belt.

My understanding is that you need to take the drive shaft coupling off the engine to get a new belt over that pulley, and taking the radiator out first gives much better access to that area.

I have never had to change/replace a fan belt -- maybe another member here can give more detail for you. A forum member over on WFM has this to say back in 2009:

It’s not a simple job, but allow yourself 3 hours. I suppose it could be done quicker, if you are in a hurry or it’s not your first time. Here’s my procedure:​

1. Remove the side panels around engine.​

2. Remove the air box from the top of the engine.​

3. I removed the alternator next, seemed it would be easier to get to some of the other bolts that have to be removed later.​

4. Drain the radiator. Now here’s a little hint. The petcock is on the alternator side of the radiator. There also is a little drain tube in the radiator and a hole punched in the sheet metal below it, so that you can get a small hose on it to drain directly into your drain pan.​

5. Remove the 3 bolts on either side of the radiator. Remove both radiator hoses. You have to do this or the shroud will not come off of the radiator and you can’t remove the radiator without removing the shroud.​

6. Remove the 4 bolts holding shroud to radiator. (these are fun to get to)​

7. Wiggle the shroud over the fan. I say it that way because the shroud hole for the fan is not round; there is a flat piece along the bottom (to restrict airflow?) that makes it a little difficult.​

8. The radiator can be pulled straight up and out at this point. Make sure to clean the fins while it’s out!​

9. Remove shroud from around fan.​

10. Remove the four bolts holding the fan to the water pump. Remove fan and pulley, don’t lose the pulley spacer!​

11. Now the part you did all that to get to, remove the 6 bolts (red arrows) from the crankshaft isolator (green arrow pointing to), it’s that big rubber mount keeping you from putting your new belt on the crankshaft pulley.​

12. Put on your new belt.​

​

Put it back together.​

1. Put crankshaft isolator back in.​

2. Put fan and water pump pulley back on. Don’t forget the pulley spacer, or your belt will squeal.​

3. Put the shroud back around the fan.​

4. Slide the radiator back in, make sure it locates in the pin holes in the frame.​

5. Install shroud on radiator.​

6. Install air box bracket on top of radiator. Do this before putting upper radiator hose on.​

7. Re-install six bolts in side of radiator / bracket.​

8. Install both radiator hoses.​

9. Retighten drain petcock. Fill radiator.​

10. Install alternator.​

11. Tighten new belt.​

12. Re-install side covers. Install air box.​

Chuck

 

[TomManson]

Good Lord, just to replace a fan belt?? What was JD thinking when they 'designed' that system knowing that fan belts do fail over time?

 

[jmiller1007]

Chuck,
Thanks for the reply! For some reason the info you copied and pasted from the 2009 thread isn’t showing up. It’s just a white section on my screen.

Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand? I can not.

Thanks!


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[TomManson]

With no fan belt on it should spin freely.

 

[chuckv]

Tom,

The belt lasts quite a long time if the tension is kept at the proper adjustment -- my 1988 322 had over 1200 hours on it with the original belt. For a home / estate class machine that gets maybe 100 to 200 hours of use max per year (many get 25 or so...) that is at least a decade of service. My two machines were going on 3 decades of use each so this level of service labor for that vintage machine does not seem out of line.

How many 318 users religiously do the de-carbon service every 250 to 500 hours? There are lots of Onan engines out there that have never had the heads off...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Josh,

Does the post show correctly over on GTT? I have no idea why the post here is showing blank spaces (my computer shows all the text...) You might try refreshing the page.

The alternator without a b elt should turn rather easily, but you may notice some slight magnetic 'cogging' as it turns, and this is not a bearing issue.

Chuck

 

[jmiller1007]

Chuck,
It might be that I’m using mobile but the post shows the same on both forums. I can’t turn the alternator pulley a smidge. I’ll order a new one. Any recommended sites for parts? Otherwise I’ll just buy one I find from googling.

Thanks Chuck!

- Josh


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[tmac58star]

Shows up for me here, on an Android running Firefox. Bookmarked for future reference.

 

[chuckv]

Josh,

If the alternator is frozen and not turning, that certainly explains the shredded belt... It can be rebuilt, and replacement ones are not that expensive either.

Chuck

 

[jmiller1007]

Josh,

If the alternator is frozen and not turning, that certainly explains the shredded belt... It can be rebuilt, and replacement ones are not that expensive either.

Chuck

Awesome! Thanks Chuck. I’m going to get everything ordered tomorrow and get this machine back up and running. Appreciate all of the insight!


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[JDF/ SwampFox]

Josh,
Here is the one I just bought and put on my 322 last week.
Working great so far.
Much cheaper than dealership prices.
Jerry

 

[Kris OK]

Won’t help much in this thread since the alternator is seized, but in a pinch this works. Get a link belt and fit it if you need to complete a job. You can replace with the original belt when you get time. Availiable at fine stores like Harbor Freight! I’ve got these on my lathe and some other things. Actually pretty handy.

 

[TempletonJDguy]

I pull the fender pan and loosen the driveshaft bolts. This allows you to slide the shaft back about a 1/4”. Between that 1/4” and a little sideways play from unbolting the coupler I can fish the belt through the mounting bosses and the driveshaft isolator. Check isolator for cracks and replace. You don’t want that coming apart while running.

 

[jmiller1007]

Josh,
Here is the one I just bought and put on my 322 last week.
Working great so far.
Much cheaper than dealership prices.
Jerry



View attachment 283460

Jerry,
Thanks so much for the info. I’m going to order this one. Do you remember which shipping option you chose and how long it took to get it?

Thank you!

- Josh


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[JDF/ SwampFox]

Jerry,
Thanks so much for the info. I’m going to order this one. Do you remember which shipping option ....

Josh
UPS and it came within a week.
Jerry

 

[jimmy]

I just replaced the belt on my 332 last week as the original JD belt was starting to fall apart. I pulled the rad and fan first and unbolted the driveshaft and coupler. Not a terrible job but it’s tight quarters unbolting everything. I left the dash pedestal panels on but it would of been easier with them off. It also was a great opportunity to clean and flush the rad.

 

[tmac58star]

Just in the nick of time...it wasn't overheating? You lucky pup...man that rad is crusty.

 

[VL21]

If it is just the bearings in the dynamo, and it usually is, it is easy to change them, my first one I did I got the bearings at JD, apart and back together in less than an hour.
On the belt, I had the deck off anyways, and did it from underneath, not easy peasy but not bad, and while doing that replaced the rubber joint that was splitting. My only bad move was getting a belt that was 1/2" too long ... now adjusted all the way out the drum of the dynamo will slightly rub the side cover, currently running without the side cover ...
I have since done a little looking around, and JD sells the same rubber drive shaft union under several part #s, some for lawn equipment, with different prices ... I bought a spare for I think $66. after paying bigger money for the first one. Look around.

 

[dave24319]

Josh,

I just replied to your other thread over on GTT, but will copy it here for completeness:

The below is the only information in the TM1591 about the fan belt.

My understanding is that you need to take the drive shaft coupling off the engine to get a new belt over that pulley, and taking the radiator out first gives much better access to that area.

I have never had to change/replace a fan belt -- maybe another member here can give more detail for you. A forum member over on WFM has this to say back in 2009:

It’s not a simple job, but allow yourself 3 hours. I suppose it could be done quicker, if you are in a hurry or it’s not your first time. Here’s my procedure:​

1. Remove the side panels around engine.​

2. Remove the air box from the top of the engine.​

3. I removed the alternator next, seemed it would be easier to get to some of the other bolts that have to be removed later.​

4. Drain the radiator. Now here’s a little hint. The petcock is on the alternator side of the radiator. There also is a little drain tube in the radiator and a hole punched in the sheet metal below it, so that you can get a small hose on it to drain directly into your drain pan.​

5. Remove the 3 bolts on either side of the radiator. Remove both radiator hoses. You have to do this or the shroud will not come off of the radiator and you can’t remove the radiator without removing the shroud.​

6. Remove the 4 bolts holding shroud to radiator. (these are fun to get to)​

7. Wiggle the shroud over the fan. I say it that way because the shroud hole for the fan is not round; there is a flat piece along the bottom (to restrict airflow?) that makes it a little difficult.​

8. The radiator can be pulled straight up and out at this point. Make sure to clean the fins while it’s out!​

9. Remove shroud from around fan.​

10. Remove the four bolts holding the fan to the water pump. Remove fan and pulley, don’t lose the pulley spacer!​

11. Now the part you did all that to get to, remove the 6 bolts (red arrows) from the crankshaft isolator (green arrow pointing to), it’s that big rubber mount keeping you from putting your new belt on the crankshaft pulley.​

12. Put on your new belt.​

​

Put it back together.​

1. Put crankshaft isolator back in.​

2. Put fan and water pump pulley back on. Don’t forget the pulley spacer, or your belt will squeal.​

3. Put the shroud back around the fan.​

4. Slide the radiator back in, make sure it locates in the pin holes in the frame.​

5. Install shroud on radiator.​

6. Install air box bracket on top of radiator. Do this before putting upper radiator hose on.​

7. Re-install six bolts in side of radiator / bracket.​

8. Install both radiator hoses.​

9. Retighten drain petcock. Fill radiator.​

10. Install alternator.​

11. Tighten new belt.​

12. Re-install side covers. Install air box.​

Chuck

LORD!! After reading this, makes me glad I sold my 322! Good Luck!!