322 Hydrostat jerk

1482 Views 16 Replies 9 Participants Last post by knottyrope, Jan 29, 2014

Premeis

Discussion Starter · Jun 5, 2009

I have recently purchased my first hydro garden tractor - 322 with low hours unfortunately the hydro control was jumpy. I believe I have read most of the prior posts about the Rev 3 linkage and its issues. I decided to replace the damper in my rev 3 linkage. The control is better but it is still poor above mid throttle (the damper does not provide damping when slowing to a stop) It seems like Deere want the driver to step on the brake when ever slowing to a stop or changing direction. I would like to install the update kit, but unfortunately the list of NLA parts is growing which made up the AM116222 KIT. If anyone has drawings of the REV 4 shock mount, the neutral detent plate, and the hole locations on the right baffle plate (only used on 330,322,332)I would greatly appreciate getting access to them. The damper, spring and link are still available and I believe i can make the rest but drawings would make it a much easier project. I also checked if the rev 4 plate assy which the control level bolts to was available => NLA also.

Thanks Pete

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chuckv

· #2 · Jun 5, 2009

Pete,

Also check for worn linkage, as even a small amount of slop at each joint adds up and will cause jerky action when reversing direction.

Chuck

mikeoverbey

· #3 · Jun 20, 2009

I have also asked if anyone has some details or drawings of the REV 4 kit for the dampener, with no luck. If anyone has dimensions for the parts, I would GLADLY draw it up in a CAD file for all to use. I know these parts are not hard to make, but just can't find them anymore. Pic's are on this thread..

http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/101670.html?1145571405

I also got the PDF file of the installation instructions from Chuck, which was a help in figuring out exactly what the kit is doing.

Another good thread explaining what each part is doing...

http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/76345.html?1126808578

Mike

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chuckv

· #4 · Jun 20, 2009

Mike,

My 1992 322 has the rear mount bracket welded onto the frame as it was built as a REV4 from the factory. The next time I have the fender deck off I would try to get some dimensions. The parts inside the pedestal would be a bit more difficult to get to...

I would be interested in a kit for my second 332 which is a REV3 1990 model if anyone is going to make up several sets.

Chuck

mikeoverbey

· #5 · Jun 20, 2009

That sounds good. I think I can import the picture into a CAD file and if someone can tell me what size at least one of the holes in each of the parts is, I can scale the rest to the correct size.

R Goodwin

· #6 · Jun 21, 2009

I would also be interested in purchasing a kit for my 322.
Rick

joel_bc

· #7 · Oct 23, 2013

I bought a used model 170 JD garden tractor (38" deck) last year. It has the Kawasaki 14hp engine. I ran it spring, summer, and fall - up to a few days ago. (Engine's compression and power have been good.) Two days ago, I had backfiring problems when I tried to start it for the first time that day. I pulled the spark plug, and it was badly oil fouled.

I replaced the plug with a new one. I changed the old oil (not sure how old, but very dark), and put in straight 30w, as the engine is old and I wouldn't be running it in cold temps.

I started the machine and the tractor ran fine for three or four minutes, doing some mowing, then stopped. I put more gas in the tank, to make sure low fuel wasn't an issue. I tried cranking it - wouldn't start. I sprayed ether into the carb throat - it fired nicely on that but only ran for a second or two. I poured a small amount of gas down the carb throat, and pretty much the same, though ran very slightly longer. I figured the carb wasn't getting a decent fuel supply.

I checked the fuel lines and fuel filter for blockages, and I removed the fuel pump and opened and inspected it. Very clean. Reassembled, and with the end of the fuel line disconnected from the carb, I cranked the engine - and the line pumps a good little flow of gas.

I've ruled out ignition, I suppose. But I'm stumped. What's next?

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jdmaninlouky

· #8 · Oct 23, 2013

Joel -

Next step is to pull carb and do a careful inspection for dirt , sediment , clabber'd gas , any and all junk .

If your not a carburater(sic) guy at present , now would be a good time to start with that simple design on that Kaw' . Clean everything you can see , and then some . Use a bright light and magnifier to see , and compressed air to blow out the passages that you can't see through .

If you are already a carb. guy ; you will know what to do when you see it all out in the open .

Best I can do on such short notice

Ps. The little single wire Igniter on those Kaws' can be intermittent causing come and go fire . Just a thought to keep in mind , if all is well in carberator(sic) .

Dave

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joel_bc

· #9 · Oct 23, 2013

David, if it was any aspect of the ignition that was at fault, would the engine have been firing until the ether or gas (down carb throat) was used up?

jdmaninlouky

· #10 · Oct 23, 2013

2

Joel _

No , and maybe possibly (??) , are the only two answers I can reasonably offer to your question . In theory , a very-very weak spark just may light off with ether , when a possible over-dosed hand poured portion of gasoline might be enough to quench it out before a flame has a chance to get started . Long shot theory in my mind , and the only reason I mentioned it is because I've experienced some pretty weird stuff over 50 years of playing (trouble-shooting) . Sometimes , even experienced mechanics can be fooled into thinking a gas issue is an ignition problem , and vise-versa . I often use a Windex type spray bottle filled with gasoline on MIST setting to see if it will sustain a longer full throttle run to eliminate an ignition problem , and/or confirm a fuel deliver issue .

So if nothing else , take that part about the Tiny igniter on the side of the engine , as only a primer for further trouble-shooting spark issues later on if the fuel/carb. is not the problem .

Welcome to WFM , by the way .

Good guys always here ; and only a couple few nuts too .

me included . Ha-HA

Dave

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joel_bc

· #11 · Oct 23, 2013

Tried starting the engine again today. I noticed the carb's choke valve wasn't closing all the way, so I adjusted the linkage so it would. Made no difference - though, as before, engine kicks over with either ether spray into the throat or a small amount of gas poured down.

I suppose there's not much last-ditch I can do before removing and disassembling the carb.

Playing with the idle adjustment screw would have no bearing, correct?

Okay. Let's say I remove the carb. I have the tech manual for the machine, and it shows carb-innard diagrams. I have a compressor, so I can blow out passages. I have carb spray on hand - is there any benefit to using it, after blowing out passageways with the compressor?

jdmaninlouky

· #12 · Oct 23, 2013

Joel -

Sounds like your gonna have to bite the bullet and crack her' open . I like the Gum-Out Aerosol with the tube nozzle to blow through the hidden passages . Sometimes I have to put a 90 degree , or close , bend at the tube end to get through the small inner bore passages . Pay special attention to main feed inlet needle and seat for corrosion/crud inside that might interfere with the needles travel to the seat , and use your magnifier to really scrutinize the seat area of the needle . If metal seats , I usually can get something in there and lightly try and polish it . Trimmed to match pencil eraser , trimmed end of a plastic wire-tie to match needle-tip profile , or something similar but soft are just a few thing in my trick bag that come to mind . On a rubber needle tip I will use my fingernail to lightly scrape the wear area while spying it with a bout 3-5 magnification . If it has a removable emulsion tube , be sure and clean all the holes and follow with compressed air and cleaner .

These are generic highlights only . I can't keep in my mind every carb. specifics' I've ever repaired , so just use your instincts , and I'm sure you will be successful !

Forget about ignition (for now) till you get it cleaned :

Dave

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vinnie110

· #13 · Oct 23, 2013

If you have some welding torch tip cleaners you can use them to poke through the small passages that get plugged with crud. Also Gumout sells a dip can that you can soak carb parts in a solvent, can with solvent in it is about $25

joel_bc

· #14 · Oct 23, 2013

Here's something I don't know. What is that thing (a small metal cylinder, looks like a capacitor or small relay) at the bottom of the carb? (Has a copper contact at one end) A wire clips on there, and I assume it's part of the igniter/ignition system.

Anyhow, I got the engine started and running nicely. I removed and disassembled the carb, blow out passageways with compressor, then use carb spray (with that little plastic tube) to remove varnish, gunk, etc. Dried it out and re-assembled. I also cleaned that copper contact with electric-contact-cleaner spray and steel wool.

Thanks for the info and encouragement, guys.

Anyway, the manual I have for the engine doesn't show that capacitor or whatever it is on the carb in the photo. But my machine has it. Mystery to me.

jdmaninlouky

· #15 · Oct 24, 2013

Joel -

That is the fuel solenoid , An electric valve that closes fuel off through carb. main jet unless the ignition switch is in the on or crank position . It's main goal is to prevent a backfire @ shutdown .

Glad you're good to go ! See ..., it wasn't bad as you thought was it ?

Dave

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threeeighteen

· #16 · Jan 15, 2014

Joel--
You can unscrew the solenoid, ground it and flip your key on and off a few times to see if the little chrome plunger is moving up and down. It moves upward to push the float up and thereby shuts off fuel flow when the key is turned off. When the key is turned to ON, then it lowers and lets fuel flow into the bowl again. I believe those little solenoids are expensive. I have seen them fail to operate freely, so I just chopped the plunger off, reinstalled it and voila! No more issues!

knottyrope

· #17 · Jan 29, 2014

if you do grind down the plunger put in in line manual fuel shutoff of the tank might empty into your crankcase

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