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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I’m new to garden tractors, a couple months ago I bought a 322 and it has a loud squeak from the front end. It’s coming from the the circle part on both sides of the tractor. On the side shown the nut has grooved the metal piece it is rubbing against. Is this piece to loose? What should I do with it to get the rubbing and squeaking to stop? I would think I need to tighten it but I don’t know it’s function.




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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those bolts are an axle guide. Put grease or anti seize on the bolt ends and pads then turn the bolts out to meet the axle. They help keep the center pivot from NOT getting egg shaped.
Thank you! What about the groove that the left side was worn? Is that okay or should something be done? And when you say turn the bolts out to meet the axle you mean back them out to put pressure on the bolt head?


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you! What about the groove that the left side was worn? Is that okay or should something be done? And when you say turn the bolts out to meet the axle you mean back them out to put pressure on the bolt head?


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And what a center pivot? Im not seeing it on a diagram?


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Drafter,

The ramp idea is exactly the wrong approach!! As the axle pivots on uneven ground, the bolt head clearance is quite variable, and can even bind and stick when it reaches far up into the frame slot in that area.

The heads of the axle stop bolts should not be forced onto the mating surface, but should not have a large gap either. The clearance should be as constant as possible throughout the axle travel when pivoting. Here is an illustration from the manual:
View attachment 284424

There are replaceable wear plates in the axle channel on these tractor frames -- if you have deep groves in the existing ones they should be replaced or perhaps turned over. Use a dry lube if anything in this area, as grease will attract abrasive grime and speed the wear.

View attachment 284425

...note the scale of the axle wear plate hardware and the actual axle stop bolt are grossly exaggerated in the drawing...the mounting hardware is M8 and the axle bolt is M16 (twice the shank diameter...)

JMILLER -- looks like the axle bolt in your picture is free to turn (not locked down by the nut to the axle casting...) which would let it move out to touch, and that would squeak loudly for sure. Once adjusted with a new wear surface you should be rewarded with much quieter operation. (y)

Chuck

This is what the “wear plate” looks like now. There isn’t any separate plate to turn over. It does catch at the very top wear the groove ends. Should I try and find the replacement bolt on wear plates?


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do not make the the bolts tight to the axle. leave a bit of space between the bolt head and the axle pad. What you have now is too much space but make sure the axle is pushed to the front as far as it can go before you adjust them.


The axle has one bolt in the middle that it pivots on. Because people don't grease and adjust the bolts to the axle pads the center pivot bolt and the axle get egg shaped from the front to back movement. You can drill that out and put a brass bushing in there to fix the slow/sloppy steering also.
I have seen guys weld new pads on the axle but I don't think you need that. just grease it, adjust both bolts and you should be good.
Thanks Mopar!


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I believe there is/was a kit to replace the wear pads on the frame, but if you are handy with a welder it would be a pretty easy repair. It looks like the repair kit bolts on, which may be easier if you don't weld.
AM101198 kit.
The pieces also come up separately. The individul pad is ~$20
Thanks Drafter! Where did you find this kit? I’m not having luck finding it online or on Deeres website.


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