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322 loud squeak from front end

3K views 29 replies 10 participants last post by  Mike48321 
#1 ·
Hi All,
I’m new to garden tractors, a couple months ago I bought a 322 and it has a loud squeak from the front end. It’s coming from the the circle part on both sides of the tractor. On the side shown the nut has grooved the metal piece it is rubbing against. Is this piece to loose? What should I do with it to get the rubbing and squeaking to stop? I would think I need to tighten it but I don’t know it’s function.




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#15 ·
I believe there is/was a kit to replace the wear pads on the frame, but if you are handy with a welder it would be a pretty easy repair. It looks like the repair kit bolts on, which may be easier if you don't weld.
AM101198 kit.
The pieces also come up separately. The individul pad is ~$20
Thanks Drafter! Where did you find this kit? I’m not having luck finding it online or on Deeres website.


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#17 ·
Thanks Drafter! Where did you find this kit? I’m not having luck finding it online or on Deeres website.


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I found it on the Deere parts website: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/65685/referrer/navigation/pgId/270639 (It's in the 332 fiche, but I assume it's in the 318 and 322 as well)

Now, sometimes the kit is NLA, but the individual parts are still available. This thing would be pretty east recreate, though if the kit is big $ (which it may be).
 
#9 ·
I should add I like PO's repair (That slot cut in the pad/strap, and then squeezed with a vise-grip or pounded with a hammer to make a bit of a feed ramp for the adjustment bolt).
 
#10 · (Edited)
Drafter,

The ramp idea is exactly the wrong approach!! As the axle pivots on uneven ground, the bolt head clearance is quite variable, and can even bind and stick when it reaches far up into the frame slot in that area.

The heads of the axle stop bolts should not be forced onto the mating surface, but should not have a large gap either. The clearance should be as constant as possible throughout the axle travel when pivoting. Here is an illustration from the manual:
Font Eyelash Monochrome photography Rectangle Metal


There are replaceable wear plates in the axle channel on these tractor frames -- if you have deep groves in the existing ones they should be replaced or perhaps turned over. Use a dry lube if anything in this area, as grease will attract abrasive grime and speed the wear.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel


...note the scale of the axle wear plate hardware and the actual axle stop bolt are grossly exaggerated in the drawing...the mounting hardware is M8 and the axle bolt is M16 (twice the shank diameter...)

JMILLER -- looks like the axle bolt in your picture is free to turn (not locked down by the nut to the axle casting...) which would let it move out to touch, and that would squeak loudly for sure. Once adjusted with a new wear surface you should be rewarded with much quieter operation. (y)

Chuck
 
#11 ·
Drafter,

The ramp idea is exactly the wrong approach!! As the axle pivots on uneven ground, the bolt head clearance is quite variable, and can even bind and stick when it reaches far up into the frame slot in that area.

The heads of the axle stop bolts should not be forced onto the mating surface, but should not have a large gap either. The clearance should be as constant as possible throughout the axle travel when pivoting. Here is an illustration from the manual:
View attachment 284424

There are replaceable wear plates in the axle channel on these tractor frames -- if you have deep groves in the existing ones they should be replaced or perhaps turned over. Use a dry lube if anything in this area, as grease will attract abrasive grime and speed the wear.

View attachment 284425

...note the scale of the axle wear plate hardware and the actual axle stop bolt are grossly exaggerated in the drawing...the mounting hardware is M8 and the axle bolt is M16 (twice the shank diameter...)

JMILLER -- looks like the axle bolt in your picture is free to turn (not locked down by the nut to the axle casting...) which would let it move out to touch, and that would squeak loudly for sure. Once adjusted with a new wear surface you should be rewarded with much quieter operation. (y)

Chuck
Yeah, I probably should have used the heavy sarcasm font on the word "like".

There used to be a a website with dubious repairs called "there I fixed it" or something, this would certainly qualify.

:)
 
#16 ·
I tried to find that "kit" quite some time ago. It doesn't seem to be available any longer in kit form.
Kit consists of -
(2) M88755 straps
(4) 19M7163 screws
(4) 14M7273 nuts
These are still available as individual parts.
 
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#29 ·
The reason it is a bushing is that it only rotates less than 10 or 15 degrees in either direction, very slowly, and the loads are not that high. Sealed bearings would work, but are definitely not needed... The bushing and the bolt are the wear surfaces, and replacing them will make things new again.

If your bushing lasted three or four decades the first time...restoring it and then properly lubricating it will give you a lifetime of service.

Chuck
 
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