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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a fuel leak in the area of the fuel filter located directly above the oil pressure switch. Since then the oil pressure light is illuminated on the instrument panel when,the engine is running. Oil Level is good. Did a continuity check from the light back to the pressure SW. all okay.
Now where do I go from here? Is there a check of the pressure SW or, do I shot gun it & replace the pressure SW. Where would be the best place to purchase one of these Pressure Switches?
Would like to install an external pressure gauge, not sure where to install though, to get the correct reading of the actual engine oil pressure.
 

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Wayne,

Most oil pressure idiot light switches are simple grounding type. IE: no/low pressure = ground, completing the circuit and the light lights, above the minimum pressure, the switch opens and the circuit is open, no light. "Most" switches are 15Lb rating with either 1/8 or 1/4 NPT threads.

You can check the switch with some effort but most of the time they are inexpensive enough that you just try a new one.

As far as getting a spot to hook up an oil pressure line for a gauge, if there is enough room around the original switch, use a "T" and plumb it from there. Otherwise you'll need to find another oil gallery plug to tap.

Tom
 

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you need to attach a gauge to the port to know whats really going on
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
okay, I installed a oil pressure gauge on the engine in the place where the oil pressure sw. was installed, gauge reads 50psi @ mid throttle. According to the manual this is normal pressure.
Now where do we go from here?
 

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Wayne,

Does the light go out of you disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch terminal? If not, that tan wire is grounded somewhere between the switch terminal and the oil pressure lamp socket...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Chuck:
No the light does not go out when the lead is disconnected from the sw.
I have installed a oil pressure gauge in the pressure switch port, oil pressure is good. This is the most important thing I'm interested in @ this time, will ring out the wiring when temps warm up next spring.
Thanks for all you inputs to this question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Finally got around to ringing out the wiring, found out that the indicator light socket was in the incorrect location for the oil pressure located on the instrument panel. Actually the oil pressure was good as I also proved when I hooked up an external oil pressure gauge.
What the light was indicating was that the alternator was in-op. Found this when I smelled rubber burning, this was the alternator drive belt failure due to the Alternator bearing froze thus damaging the belt. Replaced alternator bearings, as well as drive belt, will be reassembling & test the system in a couple of days. The fwd. alternator bearing is very close to the exhaust manifold which will cause premature bearing failure.
Wiring diagram was the biggest help in this troubleshooting situation. Word to the wise check the wiring before coming to any conclusions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't really know how many hours are on this machine, the hour meter was (inop) when I bought it four years ago. From all indications however this is a low time machine, everything is really tight including the mower deck.
If in doubt if your alternator bears condition might want to remove the unit & check them, my bearing (AFT) was froze thus causing the belt to fail. Replacing a belt on this machine is no simple task, checking the alternator bearing condition is by far easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally finished reassembling the 322, checked the blower & engine for leaks, found that the fuel filter leaking, replaced the filter all is operating normal. I will think about selling it now as I have too many lawn tractors in the herd. Thanks for all your help.
 
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