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Most likely the seals need replacing in the power steering shaft. I have rebuilt a few using the instructions and documentation located on this site. Do a search and you should find the writeup or maybe someone has bookmarked it and will post it. The steering column needs to come out of the tractor and it takes a while to do this. Be careful to mark all the hydraulic hoses so you can reconnect them to the same port you disconnected them from. I used different colored zip ties on the hoses and made notes detailing which color connected to which port. Deere sells the seal kit and you may also need a new bushing for the top of the steering shaft right under the steering wheel if your steering wheel seems to have a lot of play at the top of the steering tube.
While doing my second steering column last summer, I needed to order new springs so I contacted the manufacturer and they sold me the new parts and I also found out they will rebuild the shaft and test it if you send it to them in the Chicago area. I will look for the contact info and post it later.
 

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Here is the rebuild link from the MTF site.

 

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I found my notes and receipts. The John Deere service manual for your tractor has a section on rebuilding the steering unit. You can also do a search for the Parker Hydraulics Hydraguide Hydrostatic Steering System HGF Service Procedure and download it. It's their Service Manual 2753

The John Deere Steering Control Unit Seal Kit I used was part no. AM107078 and cost $93.34 in July 2020. It included the seals needed to completely rebuild and it also included an exploded view of the steering unit with these suppler details. The supplier is QCC, LLC. 9501 Winona Avenue, Schiller Park, IL 60176 Ph (708) 887-6268. In talking to a customer support technician at QCC, he told me they rebuild the units and I believe the price at that time was $75.00 for labor and testing plus the cost of whatever parts would be needed in the repair plus freight.

If you need the bushing at the top of the steering tube under your steering wheel, I used John Deere Steering Shaft Bearing Kit, part no. AM107081 and it cost $13.90 in July 2020. The kit came with 3 bushings and I used the one that fit my steering column.

Both times I rebuilt units, I set up a designated area to do the repair and I hung plastic sheeting from floor to ceiling to make a clean room as well as provide a barrier wall to catch springs that tend to fly out on dissassembly and reassembly. I completely rebuilt both units with all new seals and the second unit I rebuilt needed new springs because the old ones appeared worn and were difficult to hold in place during reassembly. I have heard of some people only replacing the seal located where the steering tube connects to the Hydraguide unit so they do not have to take apart the difficult sections, however, with all the time it takes to remove and install the unit from the tractor, I was not going to take any shortcuts in the rebuild.

For the less adventurous, the $75.00 fee from QCC to rebuild and bench test seems to be a very good option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mike, wow, thanks for this great information. The tractor will have to sit for a while before I can get up the nerve to even try and take the column out let alone try and rebuild it. Time to check the classifieds and ebay.
Thanks again,
 

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The 332 is a great tractor and certainly worth keeping going. Here are some options. This may sound crazy but add enough hydro fluid to get the tractor to the full mark and depending on how bad the leak is, you may be able to continue using the tractor for a while. On my first repair, I tore the tractor down and repaired it right away after it started leaking under the steering wheel. On the other tractor a few years later, I had a one time leak under the steering wheel but this time it was in winter. We wrapped a rag around the steering column and kept using the tractor, always making sure to keep the hydro level full. Surprisingly the leak slowed down and I think only once leaked under the steering wheel again a few months later. We never had to change the rag and that's how dry the leak was from the top. I was able to use the tractor for months without a major leak occurring under the steering wheel again. It did weep slightly underneath because I always noticed drips underneath and the belly of the tractor got oily but it was still usable. I would add fluid every couple months but it never ran low. Once the leak worsened, I tore it apart and fixed it.
If you need the tractor but don't want to experience downtime to repair it, you may be able to continue using it if you maintain the proper fluid level and the leak is not continuous. In the meantime, you can purchase a new (probably price prohibitive) or a used steering column, rebuild it or send it away for a rebuild and then swap it into your tractor in an afternoon. Once your tractor is fixed, you can either rebuild your old steering column and sell it or sell it as is with the leak to someone who wants to rebuild it and use it. (Because of the time it takes to swap out the steering column, I suggest rebuilding any used one you purchase unless you know for sure the seals are not original from when the tractor was built in the last century)
 

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If you do start looking for a used steering column, first crawl under your tractor and look at the bottom of your steering column. It will have ports with hydraulic hoses connected to them. Count the number of ports on your column. If you buy a used column to rebuild and swap into your tractor, make sure you buy a used John Deere steering column that either came out of a tractor like yours or has the same number of ports on it as your current one.
 

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The 322 has always used the five port steering column. The 318 used 4 port steering column up to serial number 285000 and went to 5 port steering after that. 1983 ended the 4 port steering in the 318.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So disassembly has started, sort of. Only slightly dented the steering wheel shaft getting the steering wheel off. Then the side covers and the hood and the belly screen. Getting up after taking the belly screen off did leave me reeling for a while. Wish I could see a way to do it all with out having to lie down or be so upside down, perhaps there is if I take the whole thing apart?
 

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Glad you are starting the project. To remove the 4 nuts holding the steering column in place, you will probably have to do that from the top. I have not removed a steering column from a 322 but if it's like the other models I have worked on, you will need to remove the battery and tray to get access. From the top you may be able to reach one or two of the hydraulic hoses but other than that, I do not know a way to reach the others except from below.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glad you are starting the project. To remove the 4 nuts holding the steering column in place, you will probably have to do that from the top. I have not removed a steering column from a 322 but if it's like the other models I have worked on, you will need to remove the battery and tray to get access. From the top you may be able to reach one or two of the hydraulic hoses but other than that, I do not know a way to reach the others except from below.
Thanks, on a 322 as it is water cooled the battery is at the front and where the 318 battery is is a radiator. After looking at this more I wonder if I take the tower sheet metal and deck off would the bottom fittings be accessible from the top?
 

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Well...maybe. I've had the fender pan and belly screen off of my 322, and a PO had the right side operator's pedestal off...not much behind the pedestal though except the hydro linkage on that side. I would definitely pull the belly screen/pan and fender pan...those little magnetic LED stick lights run by 2 AA batteries are a lifesaver when poking around under a 322...can tell you that for sure.
 

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Sorry, I forgot about the radiator being in that position on the 322 and 332. I looked at some 322 pictures and I'm not sure the best way to access the top mounting nuts holding the steering column in place unless the side pedestal panels offer easy access. Maybe someone who has removed a steering column from a 322 or 332 can offer their advice. If not, if you have a friendly Deere dealer, you might give them a call and ask if they have a technician on staff who has done the repair and you can ask for advice.

When you say "Take the deck off", I'm assuming you mean the seat pan/fender deck. I do not think it will help you reach the steering column any easier because the steering column is installed at an angle and points forward. All of the hydraulic hose connections at the steering column will probably be below and a little to the rear of the radiator. However, taking the seat pan off is not too difficult and if you have never done it, it's probably time to clean off any accumulated dirt on and around the hydro and its cooling fins, inspect the driveshaft and grease the rear U Joint if it has one. If your tractor is oily underneath from the hydro leak, it will help give access to areas that need to be degreased. If that is what you want to do, I suggest you do the cleaning before you take off any hydraulic hoses. You don't want to risk getting any dirt in open hydraulic lines. When I replaced the steering column on the 317 modified with power steering, I stripped the tractor all the way down, degreased and carefully pressure washed it (covering all electrical components and air intakes). Once the chassis was clean, I took out the steering column. It's always easier working on a clean machine and hopefully it helps prevent contamination once you open up sealed systems.

Taking the seat pan off may be much more work than you really want to do at this time because one thing will lead to another and once you see the fuel lines, you will probably want to replace them if they are original - and the list goes on.......You will see the hydro filter and wonder when the last time the fluid and filter were changed....All good things to do but you might not want to open up such a big project list at this time.
 

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I think you'll want to remove the rad, it may be necessary to get the valve out.
It's not to difficult to pull rad and working right there by it could result in damage to it. I wouldnt risk it, there 1k$ for a new one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you, yes the radiator is going to come out. Benefits of space time and lots of lost m o n e y !
Question about how to identify a quality used unit from ebay that would be a solid investment worthy of rebuild?
Thanks again,
 

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Sorry to say but no way to identify the quality of a used part from ebay or any other place!

I see a link in post #3 for rebuilding the power steering unit. Do you have the tech manual for the 322...TM1591? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry to say but no way to identify the quality of a used part from ebay or any other place!

I see a link in post #3 for rebuilding the power steering unit. Do you have the tech manual for the 322...TM1591? Bob
I don't have to tech manual nor the ability to rebuild the unit if I did, I am checking into outsourcing prices as they would, from what I have been told, rebuild and test for a reasonable price which is something I cannot do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So todays progress was to take off the body, the radiator and somewhat clean things. The pump looks pretty ugly and everything down there looks pretty rusty so not sure how to get it all out without breaking things. Next question to get it out through the bottom do you have to take out the drive shaft and the frame cross member?
 
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