322 Won't start
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David,
Are these issues concurrent with the changeout of the key switch and PTO switch -- or are you just commenting so we know that an old, original key switch is not a factor? If you *just now* changed these two switch look for a bad or incorrect connection from switches to the harness.
Do you have the wiring diagrams as shown in the TM1591? One thing to look for is that the fuel shutoff is pulling in on the carburetor when you turn the key to RUN. I suspect that the safety circuits are inhibiting the ignition, but the absence of a fuel pump pulsing is a separate issue for sure.
Here is the 322 ignition wiring excerpt that shows the seat switch, ignition and fuel cutoff etc as interconnected with the TDCM.
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To make sure that the key switch is wired correctly and is the correct one (Deere makes several mechanically similar switches that are internally unique...) verify by the below information:
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When the key is in the run position, does the hour meter run? maybe you have a bad ground between the engine and the frame (these engines are on rubber motor mounts...)
Let us know what you find...and if you need more info on the wiring diagrams that can be excerpted from the TM1591 manual -- you should get this complete manual as it will help you maintain your 322. I will e-mail you one larger excerpt that is too big to post here.
Chuck
Are these issues concurrent with the changeout of the key switch and PTO switch -- or are you just commenting so we know that an old, original key switch is not a factor? If you *just now* changed these two switch look for a bad or incorrect connection from switches to the harness.
Do you have the wiring diagrams as shown in the TM1591? One thing to look for is that the fuel shutoff is pulling in on the carburetor when you turn the key to RUN. I suspect that the safety circuits are inhibiting the ignition, but the absence of a fuel pump pulsing is a separate issue for sure.
Here is the 322 ignition wiring excerpt that shows the seat switch, ignition and fuel cutoff etc as interconnected with the TDCM.
To make sure that the key switch is wired correctly and is the correct one (Deere makes several mechanically similar switches that are internally unique...) verify by the below information:
When the key is in the run position, does the hour meter run? maybe you have a bad ground between the engine and the frame (these engines are on rubber motor mounts...)
Let us know what you find...and if you need more info on the wiring diagrams that can be excerpted from the TM1591 manual -- you should get this complete manual as it will help you maintain your 322. I will e-mail you one larger excerpt that is too big to post here.
Chuck
Dave, your symptoms point to no power on the 10A fuse circuit. That circuit powers the annunciator lights, the fuel pump, the seat switch, and the green voltage sense line to the voltage regulator.
The headlights and starting circuit are powered from the 25A fuse circuit. That you have power on that bus says that your ignition switch is wired correctly.
Trouble shooting: Get out your friendly multimeter, and begin by checking the fuse for continuity. With the ignition switch ON, you should have 12 volts at the fuse socket, and, with a good fuse in place, have 12 volts coming out of the socket.
I'll make a guess that with no power to any of the items on the 10A bus, that you either have a contact problem in the fuse holder or a short circuit that is blowing fuses. DC resistance on the load side at the fuse should be 2-4 ohms, not less. The load side is the fuseholder terminal that doesn't go to 12 volts when you turn the ignition ON.
Use an ohmmeter to check fuses. Some of those blade fuses will blow without showing visually.
Hank
The headlights and starting circuit are powered from the 25A fuse circuit. That you have power on that bus says that your ignition switch is wired correctly.
Trouble shooting: Get out your friendly multimeter, and begin by checking the fuse for continuity. With the ignition switch ON, you should have 12 volts at the fuse socket, and, with a good fuse in place, have 12 volts coming out of the socket.
I'll make a guess that with no power to any of the items on the 10A bus, that you either have a contact problem in the fuse holder or a short circuit that is blowing fuses. DC resistance on the load side at the fuse should be 2-4 ohms, not less. The load side is the fuseholder terminal that doesn't go to 12 volts when you turn the ignition ON.
Use an ohmmeter to check fuses. Some of those blade fuses will blow without showing visually.
Hank
First problem was tractor ran but pto didn't work.I bought a key and pto switch replaced both but it ended up being pto switch.I bought this tractor used this spring and mowed a couple times with it. Put a snowblower on it and blew some snow after I fixed the pto switch. It just died while blowing. Tractor hadn't been very well cared for before I got it. Swapped fuses around with my good 322 didn't help. Going to check and see if I have power at the 10A fuse.
Thanks to everyone for there input. Went to check the fuse terminal and found out that someone had removed the female connector out of the block and it does not stay in. Have to hold it when I push the fuse in. Again thank you everyone.
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