Dave, your symptoms point to no power on the 10A fuse circuit. That circuit powers the annunciator lights, the fuel pump, the seat switch, and the green voltage sense line to the voltage regulator.
The headlights and starting circuit are powered from the 25A fuse circuit. That you have power on that bus says that your ignition switch is wired correctly.
Trouble shooting: Get out your friendly multimeter, and begin by checking the fuse for continuity. With the ignition switch ON, you should have 12 volts at the fuse socket, and, with a good fuse in place, have 12 volts coming out of the socket.
I'll make a guess that with no power to any of the items on the 10A bus, that you either have a contact problem in the fuse holder or a short circuit that is blowing fuses. DC resistance on the load side at the fuse should be 2-4 ohms, not less. The load side is the fuseholder terminal that doesn't go to 12 volts when you turn the ignition ON.
Use an ohmmeter to check fuses. Some of those blade fuses will blow without showing visually.
Hank
The headlights and starting circuit are powered from the 25A fuse circuit. That you have power on that bus says that your ignition switch is wired correctly.
Trouble shooting: Get out your friendly multimeter, and begin by checking the fuse for continuity. With the ignition switch ON, you should have 12 volts at the fuse socket, and, with a good fuse in place, have 12 volts coming out of the socket.
I'll make a guess that with no power to any of the items on the 10A bus, that you either have a contact problem in the fuse holder or a short circuit that is blowing fuses. DC resistance on the load side at the fuse should be 2-4 ohms, not less. The load side is the fuseholder terminal that doesn't go to 12 volts when you turn the ignition ON.
Use an ohmmeter to check fuses. Some of those blade fuses will blow without showing visually.
Hank
