322
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I agree with mike, I just did this job a month ago on my 322, if you remove the radiator ,it gives you a chance to inspect it make sure all the fins are clear and then of course you can take it to a radiator shop for a good cleaning and pressure test. It allows you to inspect/replace hoses if needed also. I found my extra long 13mm gearbox wrench to be very useful in getting to those isolator bolts. Bill
Removing is definitely the way to go.
I removed both side pedestal panels to help remove the radiator with the lower radiator hose intact. Once the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator were removed I could move the fan shroud forward up over the fan, pull the radiator straight up, then slide the bottom out towards the left side. I suspect I may have been able to leave the right pedestal panel on but they come off so easy it allowed for better cleaning. With the radiator and fan shroud out of the way getting at the crankshaft isolator was a breeze.
Thks again Mike and Bill!
I removed both side pedestal panels to help remove the radiator with the lower radiator hose intact. Once the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator were removed I could move the fan shroud forward up over the fan, pull the radiator straight up, then slide the bottom out towards the left side. I suspect I may have been able to leave the right pedestal panel on but they come off so easy it allowed for better cleaning. With the radiator and fan shroud out of the way getting at the crankshaft isolator was a breeze.
Thks again Mike and Bill!
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Last wire is the one that turns the light on on the dash if its not charging Travis.
I tried running that green sensing wire right to the battery (same as the relay kit does in the boiling battery bulleton) and no change there.
That trailer plug is gone, right now I have 12ga wires connected to the existing alternator wires (cut high enough up to get rid of any melted wires) with crimp and shrink connectors.
I have an alternator in unknown condition from a 322 I parted out, it turns over fine, I could throw it on and measure AC if that looks good I could hook it up to the regulator and give it a shot.
PS I considered seeing if a mini alternator would work when I found out the JD regualtor was 236 flippin bucks. But wanted to keep it original and didnt, but thats still an option once I expire all others.
I tried running that green sensing wire right to the battery (same as the relay kit does in the boiling battery bulleton) and no change there.
That trailer plug is gone, right now I have 12ga wires connected to the existing alternator wires (cut high enough up to get rid of any melted wires) with crimp and shrink connectors.
I have an alternator in unknown condition from a 322 I parted out, it turns over fine, I could throw it on and measure AC if that looks good I could hook it up to the regulator and give it a shot.
PS I considered seeing if a mini alternator would work when I found out the JD regualtor was 236 flippin bucks. But wanted to keep it original and didnt, but thats still an option once I expire all others.
Mike Said :That trailer plug is gone, right now I have 12ga wires connected to the existing alternator wires (cut high enough up to get rid of any melted wires) with crimp and shrink connectors:
And those new wires from the Alt are directly feeding the VR, correct? Not hooked to the DC + side.
And those new wires from the Alt are directly feeding the VR, correct? Not hooked to the DC + side.
Mike when I purchased my used mini Dozer from the owner/builder he "forgot" to tell me the Honda 20 Hp engine did not have a charging system. Gee the $130 Honda regulator was missing wonder if that could be the problem?
Anyway before I paid the $$ for the Honda regulator , I did as I suggested above with a $5 Bridge rectifier from Radio Shack. Used a 12 volt 50 watt DC light bulb to test under load. Then I purchased the new VR. You could use the same method to check your existing mounted alternator.
Anyway before I paid the $$ for the Honda regulator , I did as I suggested above with a $5 Bridge rectifier from Radio Shack. Used a 12 volt 50 watt DC light bulb to test under load. Then I purchased the new VR. You could use the same method to check your existing mounted alternator.
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