[jeeper38]

So right when I fished mowing yesterday I was pulling back into the shop and the smoke started... Turns out my alternator locked up. Smoked the belt good too. I got a new belt today and the alternator should be here tomorrow. Also replacing the isolator since i took it off and its cracked in a couple places. My problem is with the wiring of my alternator to the regulator. The previous owner got rid of the plugs and I forgot to mark which alternator wire went where. Heres what I got.

(Message edited by treed on August 26, 2014)

 

[chuckv]

Austin,

The output of the alternator is AC -- it does not matter which wire goes where. Do verify that neither wire on the alternator is grounded to the housing...since you are getting a new alternator that should not be a failure mode you will see in a new part. The new alternator may have the factory connector where the wire splices are presently in the picture above, so be prepared to extend the length of the connections.

Chuck

 

[coalminer16]

I would recommend getting the factory plug for both the alternator and the VR which both can still be bought. What failed on the old alt? Bearings, magnet let loose? I may be interested in the old one if you want to sell. They are fairly simple.

 

[jeeper38]

The old one locked up tight. I'm sure its a bearing failure. Funny thing was it never made any noise prior.I didn't see the individual connectors on John Deeres part page. Where can I get them or did I just overlook it?

 

[coalminer16]

VR connector AM108849
Connector Alt side M800121
Connector Tractor side AM108847

If there was no noise-I would guess magnet letting loose. Bearing typically don't blow apart unless something happened before that damaged it.

 

[jeeper38]

Thanks for all the info Travis. I'll try to clean up that wiring in the near future.

 

[coalminer16]

Don't feel bad-mine was just as bad. Even had wire nuts on one of mine.

 

[jeeper38]

Well, I got it all back together today. Everything seems to be fine now. I ordered those plugs and should have them tomorrow, so that should have so things cleaned up. Thanks again for those numbers Travis

 

[coalminer16]

Glad you got them ordered. Just a tip-make sure the connector is very tight on the wire before pushing into the plastic part. I had one slide off as it wasn't tight enough. They give you a few extra female spade connectors so not the end of the world-but it helps to just do it right the first time. I also fill the plug with Dielectric grease.

 

[jeeper38]

Well, my plugs came in and after buying a set of ratcheting crimpers to make sure I get a tight squeeze on the terminals I'm good to go again. Looks much cleaner than how it was.

(Message edited by treed on August 26, 2014)

 

[greenmotorman101]

You certainly saved enough on the repair to pay for your crimper. That's my kind of repair. A good outcome and new tools for the shop.

Post a few more details about the crimper and where to buy. How much ??? Etc. looks like something I might need for my collection!!

Max

 

[coalminer16]

Curious on your crimpers as well. I have a ratching one but I am not as impressed with it since you need to change the setting (screw driver to do so) depending on the insulated or not ends.

Looks much cleaner in there.

 

[jeeper38]

I'll post up the tool number tomorrow if its on the box. Brand is Tool Aid. They have interchangeable jaws for different types of connectors. They do get them VERY tight. I paid 80 bucks at Clark Tool in Claycomo, Mo for them.

 

[sailon]

I am in need of a crimper to fix a similar issue and was wondering if you found any part number on the box or tool itself.

 

[KB]

I got one similar to ebay item number 271593124141 last year and it was great, for replacing my entire harness after a short in the light circuit damaged it heavily

 

[sailon]

k b - I have purchased a new voltage regulator plastic housing connection and need to crimp and the new non-insulated open barrel F-Crimp quick disconnect connections. Does the open barrel dies set in this kit work for those. I have various other electrical repairs that the double crimp on insulated terminals would be important and I also plan on using some adhesive lined heat shrink terminals. It would be very nice if I could purchase one ratcheting tool and utilize various dies specific to the task.

 

[KB]

I only used the non insulated crimper, I did all end to end barrel terminal connectors, but the non-insulated jaws on it do have a step in the crimping face, which looks like it would be perfect if this image is f-crimp.

[URL="http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals/F-Crimp.jpg[/IMG]http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals/F-Crimp.jpg[/URL]

 

[sailon]

Yes, that is exactly the style terminal I was referring to. If your end to end barrel coonectors were non-insulated did you insulated them with shrink tube or something else?

Thks!

 

[KB]

I used waterproof heat shrink tubing.

I got it from wesbell electronics. they only list large lengths on their website, but if you call Chris, he's pretty good about selling you what ever you want

 

[sailon]

THANKS K B!!! I wasn't aware they made adhesive lined shrink tubing but will soon be adding some to my electric supplies.