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Nelson

Seems like Doug Kean did just the diff lock.
He posted it.Try the search function.
It is documented somewhere here.

AJ
 

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Nelson,

Installing the linkage on the two speed isn't "required" to make it work, It can simply be left in high or low range. I am in the same dilema in terms of wanting the diff lock. I actually made the linkage for both and installed both linkages. I stopped on the two speed where it comes through the fender because I didn't realize the fender decal had to be relocated. Mine works fine at this point, now I just need to attempt to remove the fender decal so I can cut the fender and install the stud and knob. Long story short, it works without the two speed. You just pick high or low and leave it there.
 

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Question:

Since the two speed selection is an intermittent thing (it is moved and left in the new position for a time and therefore a low duty cycle actuation) why not use a small electric actuator with the appropriate stroke and not modify the fender deck? I would imagine that much of the original linkage would not be needed, but this is just a thought experiment and many times those turn out to be far from realistic. Anybody ever done something like this?

Chuck
 

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Chuck

I had pondered the same thought. I figured for the time being, if I really need to change ranges, I can reach in from behind the fender deck. I'm going to run it for a while and see if I really have the need to have the Hi/Low range. I dont use it with a blade or do any plowing with it so for now, I don't believe I will pursue it. If after a good test, I decide I need it, I can simply cut the hole and screw on the stud and knob.
 

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I would be interested in trying a electric actuator also. From what I have read it seems that in the two spd low is to low and high is too high for heavy work and that is why the posting on changing the gearing.
Thanks for the info.
Nelson
 

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Nice. I just purchased a 2 spd locking diff from a 430 on ebay that will go in one of my Onan 316 tractors. The seller on ebay said that there was two different gear ratios or something like that which equated to different speeds at low or high but he was not sure what tractor years came with what.

Any one know any thing about that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
early models were a bit faster like my 84 420

later models like my 90s 430 is a bit slower

I don't remember the serial number or year break but there is a excel sheet on this site somewhere that shows it
 
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Good info Knottyrope thank you :)

So older is possibly better for cutting lawns faster and newer could be better for ground engaging and loader duties.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)

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OK so unless I'm confused on how the serial number coding works, I am under the impression the - in front of the numbers for example -xxxx would be the earlier years and the - after for example xxxxx- would be the newer model years. Is that correct. If so see statement below. I'm not trying to be a smarty pants either, just trying understand a few things that have been a little foggy for me.

OK LOL not much difference either way. I guess it's possibly best to get the newer one when possible not just for the .8 mpr faster speed but also for the updated mounting to alleviate stress cracks at the mounting tabs.
 

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I leave my 332 in low range for everything except road transport. 332 is not a super powerhouse so for like moldboarding plowing it is happier in low range than in "single speed range"
 

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I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread but, I have an '89 420 both controls are stuck. low range and posi off. any suggestions on the best way to free them up?
 

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I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread but, I have an '89 420 both controls are stuck. low range and posi off. any suggestions on the best way to free them up?
I'd first look and make sure the linkage isn't stuck/blocked/bound up. I've read on here that slightly rolling the tractor can help with engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
look at the tear down and lube up the pivot points
 

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Went to review this about two speed/ or doing axles but all photo's are gone. Hosting issue or the transition to the new page? Seems all the older pages with photos are missing.
 

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Yes, most of the older threads have lost their images...which is really annoying ! :mad: It does seem to be either because of earlier site crashes or the transition itself.

I have saved some of my own build threads and have sent them to members when needed -- but I don't know if the authors of this thread saved a copy of this particular thread...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
wish my pics stayed
 

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I've got a few pics of my swap someplace. And my 332 is in 100 pieces for a few more days. If you need something specific, measurement or photo, just let me know.

-Aaron-

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
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