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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1989, 332 and there is a 1 or 2 second delay before the starter kicks in with the key held in the starting position. There is also the same delay when I shut the engine off. I replaced the ignition switch and that wasn't it. This doesn't happen every time, but happens more often when it's hot.The only safety switch that is hooked up is the seat safety switch and it is also new. I'm baffeled. Any suggestions?
 

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Just a guess but what kind of shape are your battery terminals in? I have had cars with corroded terminals that would delay until the current would burn off some of the corrosion and enough current would flow to kick the starter in. Also load test the battery to make sure it is good. Weak batteries cause all kinds of wierd problems.
 

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Sounds a little like a bad ground. But I'm not 100% sure. Here is my recommendations:I have scoured my 332 wire system and a goofy ground will act like you are describing. -
-Inspect the key sw ground, there is a seperate washer where it fits through the dash.
- ensure there is a good clean conn @ both battery conn's.
-Take a look @ the ground cable on the lt side of the engine. Kinda weird..this delay thing.
!Rick N, where are ya bud? -he is one of the Yanmar 'resident experts' here.
dan0

(Message edited by dan0 on July 31, 2005)
 

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Tom - If all contacts are clean and the battery is up to full power, AND you still experience this problem, you may want to buy a voltage boost kit (John Deere part number AM107421). This kit costs around $20 and boosts the voltage to the starter solenoid. - Dave
 

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Tom:

If it were just starting, I'd say it was the glow plug controller. Given it's both starting and shutting off, I'm thinking that either your fuel shutoff solenoid is sticking or the fuel shutoff controller is going bad/has a bad ground. Pull the LH engine cover and watch the fuel shutoff solenoid while you're starting and stopping. You should see it move and hear a solid *thunk* while starting. It should immediately move to shutoff fuel when stopping. Otherwise like other folks said, check your grounds and battery voltage.

rick n.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All connections were checked except the ground for the ignition switch. That might be it. That would explain why it won't shut off right away at times. Thanks for the ideas!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, it happened again while trying to start my 332. I held the key in the start position and this time nothing happened. The fuel pump was running and the fuel solenoid operated normally, but no starter. While continuing to hold the key, I turned the toggle switch for the pto to the on position and off again and it fired up. I have started it several times since and every thing is normal again. The pto switch is only about 6 months old, so I'm thinking there is a loose connection at the pto switch or the switch itself is going bad. Any thoughts?
 

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Tom:

Since I was on the 332 schematic page anyway.


The pto switch is DPDT. One side goes to the pto & pto lamp. The other side is part of the safety switch daisy chain (pto, neutral start, brake and seat). It ends at the safety start relay. I think you're onto something. Bad connection around the pto switch or maybe a sticky safety start relay.

rick n
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had already bypassed the neutral safety switch and the seat switch. The brake switch was bypassed already when I bought the machine. I don't have a schematic. Where is safety start relay located. I'm guessing this is the culprit. Thanks.
 

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Rick-
Man, does this prob sound all too familiar? I wonder if there is a solonoid prob...take a look at the (cannot remember the color) purple? seperate (approx 16 ga.) wire on the starter sol. With key in the 'start' pos -this seperate wire on the sol. should energize. If not; that doggone little relay may be the culprit. Mine was dogging me for awhile -ended up being low water in the battery!

db
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll do some voltage checks this afternoon if I get to it. I wonder if the voltage booster that Dave mentioned boosts voltage to the starter only or if it to everything??? Could low voltage affect the fuel shutoff solenoid also or does the Yanmar just not want to quit running? Maybe I'll mix in a little nitromethane with the fuel...ok,ok, I'm done daydreaming. Nothing like the smell of diesel fuel to make my mind wander...except maybe nitromethane. I'll get to smell that at Indy next weekend!!!!
 

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I'd be on the lookout for grime or corrosion on a relay. There are two + a 'brain box' beneath the beast. Have you pulled the belly screen and looked? Mine were just plain ugly when I gave her a good look and eventual cleaning.
I found green corr on the smaller relay conn. The glow plug relay was no better. Also in the brain box...well I found some moisture that nearly had its way with the electronics. Take some time to take a good look and give us a holler. We'll get ya there!
db
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I haven't had a problem the last several times I've mowed until yesterday. I shut it off for about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start, so I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds. I heard a slight click from behind the dash and the starter engaged and off it went. Everything else has power when I hold it in the start position except the starter. I also realized that this only happens when the tractor has been running for a while.
Since it is an intermittent problem, I haven't checked under the belly screen. I'm waiting until I take the deck off. Does this narrow down anything for anybody as to what to check. Thanks, Tom.
 

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Does anyone off the top of their head know the bolt pattern and center bore for the 4x5 rear wheels? I need to buy some wheel spacers. I know I can get them from Deere, but their kit, like most green parts, is pricey for what it is.

Thanks!
 

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4.5 inch circle. The holes are 72 degrees apart. By the time you get done making one with the correct thickness and width of the circle the holes are drilled in it may not seem like such a bad price. I hope you have a large lathe to work with. You might be able to get by with some disk brake spacers for a 4 1/2 inch circle car. You are also I suspect going to need new longer wheel studs or bolts to make up for the thickness of the spacer. Not sure of the bore center. Welcome to WFM. Roger
 
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