332 Engine Bogging Down
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Hank,
Thanks again for all your insight. I am putting together a parts list and wanted to make sure I am ordering the right parts and came up with a few questions. When you said get a new fuel filter, are you referring to the full assembly (AM875142) or just the filter element (CH10479) and "O" ring (CH10060)? Is the "lift pump" the same as the fuel pump (AM876116) or the fuel injection pump (AM875035) or a totally different part?
Also, is the strainer part "M91238" and what would I use to flush the fuel tank?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks for all your help.
Dennis
Thanks again for all your insight. I am putting together a parts list and wanted to make sure I am ordering the right parts and came up with a few questions. When you said get a new fuel filter, are you referring to the full assembly (AM875142) or just the filter element (CH10479) and "O" ring (CH10060)? Is the "lift pump" the same as the fuel pump (AM876116) or the fuel injection pump (AM875035) or a totally different part?
Also, is the strainer part "M91238" and what would I use to flush the fuel tank?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks for all your help.
Dennis
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get some clean gravel and course sand along with some hand cleaner, dish soap and a bit of water. place all in tanks and shake it like crazy or put in bed of pickup truck for a bit on a bumpy road or what ever you can to get the rocks n sand to do its work
rinse it out with water then let it dry some
spray in carb cleaner for final rinse, drain it and then clean your tank strainer and replace the internal tank fuel hose
fill it up and you should be good after
rinse it out with water then let it dry some
spray in carb cleaner for final rinse, drain it and then clean your tank strainer and replace the internal tank fuel hose
fill it up and you should be good after
Dennis, just the filter element and O-ring at the engine.
Most diesel mechanics will use the term "lift pump" for the pump that is ahead of the injection pump, to make clear which pump in the system we are talking about. The Deere parts list calls it "fuel pump." Its the little electric can down on the frame below the injection pump. No need to do anything with it before testing to be sure it works. It runs with the "ignition" switch on.
The tank strainer is at the end of the fuel pickup hose in the tank. Unless it's damaged, just clean it.
How much cleaning the tank needs depends on what's in it. Use a flashlight through the filler and other holes to inspect after emptying it, and see what comes out when you empty it by dumping the last contents out of the filler into a container.
Knotty's method is about what you need to do if there's algae buildup on the bottom. Gravel, dish soap, some water, and start shaking. A quart or two of Stoddard solvent with gravel is an alternative.
You'll want to get the water out after washing.
An ethanol product like dry-gas will do that.
Around here, in low-humidity country, with the tank empty, a few hours in the sun will dry it out. No real need to dry it out after Stoddard Solvent and no water.
Hank
Most diesel mechanics will use the term "lift pump" for the pump that is ahead of the injection pump, to make clear which pump in the system we are talking about. The Deere parts list calls it "fuel pump." Its the little electric can down on the frame below the injection pump. No need to do anything with it before testing to be sure it works. It runs with the "ignition" switch on.
The tank strainer is at the end of the fuel pickup hose in the tank. Unless it's damaged, just clean it.
How much cleaning the tank needs depends on what's in it. Use a flashlight through the filler and other holes to inspect after emptying it, and see what comes out when you empty it by dumping the last contents out of the filler into a container.
Knotty's method is about what you need to do if there's algae buildup on the bottom. Gravel, dish soap, some water, and start shaking. A quart or two of Stoddard solvent with gravel is an alternative.
You'll want to get the water out after washing.
An ethanol product like dry-gas will do that.
Around here, in low-humidity country, with the tank empty, a few hours in the sun will dry it out. No real need to dry it out after Stoddard Solvent and no water.
Hank
Hey Hank,
I haven't got a chance to work on it yet...honey do's got in the way. Now in-laws this weekend..so hopefully the following weekend.
I'm pretty excited about working on it now that you've pointed me in a good direction. I can't wait to hear that engine torque up.
Thanks for all your help. I'll post an update as soon as I can get my hands diesel dirty.
Dennis
I haven't got a chance to work on it yet...honey do's got in the way. Now in-laws this weekend..so hopefully the following weekend.
I'm pretty excited about working on it now that you've pointed me in a good direction. I can't wait to hear that engine torque up.
Thanks for all your help. I'll post an update as soon as I can get my hands diesel dirty.
Dennis
I finally got to start working on the 332. I pulled the fuel tank and dumped the fuel. I found that the strainer and tubing had broken off and had been in the tank when I dumped it. Hopefully that could be the problem as to why I wasn't getting enough fuel to the engine. I flushed the tank, no algae, so just let dry. Fuel filter looked good, but I pulled it and will replace it and the "O" ring as suggested.
I also found a spring, about a half inch in diameter and maybe 2 coils when I emptied the tank. Any idea what that is for?
Do I need to get replacement tubing for the pickup from JD or a parts store?
I'm hopeful this could be an easy fix.
I also found a spring, about a half inch in diameter and maybe 2 coils when I emptied the tank. Any idea what that is for?
Do I need to get replacement tubing for the pickup from JD or a parts store?
I'm hopeful this could be an easy fix.
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5,085 Posts
you need tygon tubing so it wont break down from the fuel
I got replacement tubing from JD, its not what was on JDParts.com (M63270), but a replacement (PMK2812-0406). Hopefully its the right part.
What length tubing do I need? Should the tank strainer be pointing straight down or laying on the bottom of the tank?
What length tubing do I need? Should the tank strainer be pointing straight down or laying on the bottom of the tank?
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5,085 Posts
laying down a bit on bottom
Well no luck. I pulled the fuel tank and flushed it out and cleaned the strainer, check for flow from the lift/fuel pump and had over 200ml in 15 seconds. I completed bleeding the fuel system, engine fired right back up. Got the engine warmed up and did the same thing. Bogged down at WOT with the PTO engaged running a 50" deck with the power bagger. Situation got even worse when I increased the ground speed. Engine would bog down to almost stall with no black smoke. Disengage the PTO and put the transmission in neutral and the engine would come back to full power.
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5,085 Posts
did you run it for a while? takes mine a good 10 minutes to get all the air out.
how full is your tank? I try not to go below 1/2 as a big bump can take a burp of air and start it all over again.
are you sure you have no leaks in the fule line that could be sucking air? did you see any bubble during the 200 ml test?
how full is your tank? I try not to go below 1/2 as a big bump can take a burp of air and start it all over again.
are you sure you have no leaks in the fule line that could be sucking air? did you see any bubble during the 200 ml test?
Yes, I did run it for a while to get it warmed up. I then took it out for a ride up and down my street. The engine never had a hiccup until I engage the PTO. I throttle the engine back and engage the PTO, the mower deck does not spin up immediately, I have to wait for it to slowly spin up even when I go back to WOT. The engine gets slower if I have the PTO engaged and increase the ground speed. The engine never has black smoke except at start up. I will check and bleed the lines again to see if I see any bubbles. I never bled the injectors since the engine was running smooth, per the manual.
I re-bled the fuel lines, no bubbles. Engine fires right up and sounds great. But still no black smoke when under load or when bogging down.
I previously pulled the PTO and checked the field winding coil, all is good. I've repeatedly checked the air-gap to ensure the PTO was engaging correctly.
I previously pulled the PTO and checked the field winding coil, all is good. I've repeatedly checked the air-gap to ensure the PTO was engaging correctly.
Could the problem be with the fuel pump pumping too much? When I tested the fuel pump it pumped much more than the 200ml in 30 seconds.
Or, could it be the governor? I'm new to diesels, but the engine sounds good to me when running under no load. Other than at startup, the engine never kicks out any black smoke.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Or, could it be the governor? I'm new to diesels, but the engine sounds good to me when running under no load. Other than at startup, the engine never kicks out any black smoke.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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5,085 Posts
can you see if the fuel rack is moving when engaging the PTO?
Also possible the smoke screw came loose and you wont get any power. happened to my 430 at about 2800 hours. I adjusted it until a lil smoke came out and have power since.
Also possible the smoke screw came loose and you wont get any power. happened to my 430 at about 2800 hours. I adjusted it until a lil smoke came out and have power since.
Is there any way to check to find the problem or just keep working up from the fuel tank, to the fuel pump, on up the line? I haven't tried towing/pulling anything, so I don't know how it will respond without the PTO engaged and just pulling a load off the engine.
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