Weekend Freedom Machines banner
301 - 320 of 347 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Per several comments previously about fuel timing, I checked the static fuel injection timing, or at least tried to. Has anyone done this? Per the manual, see attached, 13* BTDC is the spec. I can get little squirts of fuel to come out, but nothing gets it to flow in a steady stream, making it impossible to determine the timing. Maybe there actually is a problem with the injection pump? I have not made any adjustments or removed it.

FYI for those that do not know...adjusting the fueling (smoke screw some call it), is not a physical adjustment on the pump, but on the governor. You can adjust a screw on the governor, which pulls on the fuel rack (that is part of the injection pump). I had adjusted this up at one point, but since adjusted it back to factory spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Were you able to do any of the checks listed in the manuel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #303 ·
I accidentally skipped a step, which explained why my test did not work. I'm a dummy.

Procedure states to remove the delivery valve and spring from #1 (this I missed). When I re ran the test, I found that I could not get fuel flow to "completely stop" as it states, but it did get down to an incredibly slow drip, but a drip nonetheless (leaking pump?) By my measurement, based on the specs, that means the injection timing could be closer to TDC than it should be (13* BTDC is the spec). I removed the injection pump, and mailed it to the "local" (70 miles away) injection shop. We'll see what happens. Retard timing is absolutely not good for heat.

It was clear the pump had never been removed since it was assembled, and it had 2 shims, totalling 0.020" which is the nominal spec. So I dunno. We'll see what they say. They're the go-to diesel injection rebuild shop for at least all of SE MI per all my phone calls. They have rebuilt 2 sets of Yanmar injection nozzles for me so far including the ones on this engine.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Skwirl

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
I read the manuel a little over the weekend.
By your description it sounds like you were on compression stroke, not the exhaust.
Did the timing Mark's aline?
You can measure and calculate what it is.

The shop can rebuild the pump, but I think the timing might be set by those shims. I have to read the manuel some more yet.

Food for thought here...
The gear backlash may need to be checked.
Depends how much the timing is off.

Thanks for the update.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #305 ·
I tried rolling the engine over 360 degrees per what the book says. But when I did that, it was a continuous solid stream of fuel coming out. Should have videoed it. So I rolled it over another 360 to get back to where I started, and it behaves as expected, but the dribble doesn't quite stop. The timing marks do align, even the 13* BTDC does when the stream breaks, but it takes another few degrees to get it to slow further.

Good point on the gear backlash. I guess that seals the deal, I'll pull the front cover to check that too. Better safe than sorry. Crank seal leaks anyway.

You're right, shims set the advance. It appears to me, though it is not written anyplace I could find....more shim thickness is more retard timing, less thickness is more advanced. My thought is that more shims makes the pump further away from the cam, making it take longer for the cam lobe to actuate the pump, and vise versa.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
I wouldnt pull the front cover yet.
I'd wait till the pump is back together and you can locate the timing. If it's not to far off, shim the pump.
If it cant be shimmed, then pull the cover.
Those gears arent cheap and need to be changed in sets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: knockknock332

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
Whew! KnockKnock...you wear me out just reading your posts! You seem to be so fast you have things out the door before the idea hits your head to get those things out the door! :LOL:

It takes me a week just to get the idea to work on what's broke! But in my defense I have a queue, every day my wife breaks something else or something just wears out. Last week it expanded because her drivers side window fell down into the door and won't come back up on her 2011 Expedition. Old worn out stuff. I still have the Moco at my friends house to go fix (100 mile round trip), and I just learned my electric bill from April was about $300 more than was historically correct so something is wrong somewhere with that (likely the well pump going bad because we're losing water pressure too), the list of things never gets shorter, and I don't ever get any faster! And each new broken item is a new learning experience.


And edit to add; since it is a garden tractor forum...my 318 is experiencing running pains again, another loose wire under the dash it seems, . It just dies and all the lights go out, I reach under and jiggle, and they come back on, it starts and off I go again for another hour or so.

That's an easy fix, I just need to find the time. And the forecast is for mid 90's for a while. That's about 15° too hot for my old fat body to do anything I don't HAVE to do outside. I hate summer! I really do. I'd much rather have snow than heat. At least I can dress for snow, nobody enjoys seeing an old fat guy with no clothes on 🤪 ....

Sorry for the hijack...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #308 ·
I would "Like" your post Randy, but that is a bummer lol.

Once I saw that the pump leaked (would not stop flow completely), I didn't see any reason to delay sending it out for a check. I checked the timing 6 times, same result. So I pealed it apart and cleaned some more. Fingers crossed it isn't too bad. But also that it was/is part of the problem. It's truly the only thing I didn't do, and the manual says it should be the last thing to check.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Randy-IA

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #309 ·
Randy - So I totally hear ya on the heat. It can be brutal! I broke down and installed a mini-split in my garage just after Christmas last year. Good Lord, I wish I'd have done that ages ago! Out to the garage anytime in the winter, I don't get frost-bite from my tools, and my car is 50 degrees. Now, I go out to the garage when it's 90+ and 40% humidity outside, but 72 and dry inside. I usually have to turn it off because it gets too cold! Cost me about $40 per month to run in the winter keeping it about 50 degrees. Not sure the summer cost yet, but it's more efficient in AC mode than in HEAT mode. Thus far, absolutely worth the monthly cost for as often as I'm wrenching, tinkering, or whatever else.

Back to our regularly scheduled program...

Got the call back from the fuel injection reman place. They checked out the pump, and said the insides were "scored up pretty bad. Would not recommend reusing this one." They're going to send me one that was already rebuilt they had on the shelf...for $795... New they're $1073. Let's hope between that, the timing being off, the blocked off cooling passages, and the scale buildup in the block, the problem goes away permanently. Hoping I'll have it all back together by the end of next week/weekend.

It figures, I guess I should have just rebuilt the other engine instead of an engine swap. The other one had really bad blow by, like 250psi per cylinder at best (min spec 355). I'm $1650 deep trying to fix the overheat. BUT, I never planned to be rid of this thing anyway, so it doesn't really matter. Learning a lot! It's like going to college again, except I get to stay home lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Just for reference on temps my 3400 hour 332 with hydraulic tiller at full load ( almost to the point of stalling at some spots) was running in the mid 170’s with 95F ambient. I forgot to check the thermostat temp spec when I swapped my radiator a few weeks ago. That sucks about the injector pump. I wonder how bad my never touched 3,400 hour one is then. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
If your diesel is running good, dont worry.
Keep your fuel tank clean, keep the filter changed. Keep water out by using a fuel additive all year long. Keep the tank full also.
Change the fuel hoses if there old/ hard or if you find a soft spot.
Being 35 years old, they all have wear internally.
I havent seen a number on the filter, how small a particle it will stop. Being just a paper element, I'd guess not to small.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I have been following this thread for some time so I thought I would throw this in as a follow up on the belly screen conversation. I am working on a friends 332 that I had to take the belly screen off to recover a bolt that I dropped. See attached photos. His issue is not related to overheating, how, I don't know.....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #313 ·
332 Guy - it is for that reason that I do not entirely agree with the statement that the cooling system is "borderline undersized." Clearly it has margin, but most probably are not up to snuff.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: dhager4692

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
332 Guy - it is for that reason that I do not entirely agree with the statement that the cooling system is "borderline undersized." Clearly it has margin, but most probably are not up to snuff.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
I agree I’ve compared the cooling system to other machines and frankly it’s probably capable of cooling a 20-23hp diesel without too much trouble assuming everything is clean and you’re getting full airflow. I still haven’t figured out why they didn’t put the screens in the side panels like the 322 has. Like why in the world would you want to restrict the airflow?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,508 Posts
Now you know why the screen is there. Imagine all that getting sucked up into the radiator guard screen and into the radiator fins, too. My 322 had no belly screen when I got it, so I found a used 330 screen online, cleaned it up, repainted it and installed it with one little modification. Don't know about the 330 and 332 but they are kin to the 322 which also has a foam guard screen across the top of the frame that runs from just in front of the fuel tank to the operator's pedestal. This, too, keeps debris from where it shouldn't be. As others have rightly pointed out, the Yanmars draw air into the front of the radiator through the screens on three sides of the operator's pedestal...so that's the crucial part of the cooling/air flow system IMO. So you have a ground screen (belly screen), foam frame screen, 3 air inlets on the pedestal, and a radiator guard screen. When everything is working right these tractors pull air in from the operators pedestal, through the radiator and out the front vents on the engine side panels...at least that's the way I understand it. My 322 runs hotter when I have the side panels installed, so I've been running it without them to see if I can detect a heat difference without them when I shut the engine/tractor off. Not a scientific trial, but the engine compartment doesn't get as hot without the side panels...or so my right hand tells me.
Lots of folks pull their belly screens off...to each his own. I'd rather run with a screen than go underneath with the compressed air every time I'm cleaning up after mowing, etc. But that's just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #316 ·
For those following, I had to confirm the injection pump I received was the right one. Seems it is, so I'm thinking assembly in the coming days. I soaked the block coolant passages last night with evaporust. Drained, and doing it again today.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
Question>> I've never used evaporust so am curious to know if it works on limescale? Logic tells me it should if it's an acid base. Not so much though if it's an alkaline base.
My point being that the deposits in the cooling passages would be lime more than rust, although it would look similar. Sorry if this is an insulting question...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #318 ·
Not at all. The first soak came out nasty and black. It is listed as a pH of 6, so slightly acidic. I plan to do a few soaks and rinses before assembling to try and get big chunks out (so far it's working). Once assembled, I'll do it again, engine running with some kind of filter on the rad hose. Rinse and repeat until I feel good about it. THEN, I have some CLR to do the same. So I think I'll cover both bases, no pun intended. Rinse with distilled water till it's clear, fresh coolant and fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Just wanted to pass this on. Based on information from a friend, I just visited the following website:
https://www.hoyetractor.com


Hoye Tractor Parts Inc.
2099 US Hwy 287 E
Iowa Park,TX 76367
(940) 592-0181

which appears to be a Yanmar dealer. They have an interesting FAQ's list for reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #320 ·
First and second soak with evaporust. 6oz evaporust, top off the block with water up to the deck. No rinse, just drain.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
301 - 320 of 347 Posts
Top