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Slight correction on mine, hood insulation is there.
Just finished up. Temps taken by ir gun. Didnt shut any pto off, pop hood and check.
Top tank 185*.
Center of exhaust manifold - 445*.
Pull side panel.
Oil filter and oil pan - 205*.

Put panel back on and go empty mcs. Checked top tank again before going, already down to 178*.
Took maybe 10 minutes, top tank at 170*.

It seems the changes I made to rpm and smoke made no temp difference. The only difference I noticed was slightly more smoke when engaging pto.

Knockknock, it might be worth a try to get a new rad and put it in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Thank you. Already have a new rad

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I thought it was a recored rad?
Hmmmm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #404 ·
Well, yeah, it was re cored. But I've no reason to believe at this point that the rad has a problem. Plus, it was 350 bucks, and a new one is 950... I'll probable throw up the white flag before a new new radiator. Or rather, find another tractor to swap parts with for only a little more... At least I'll be able to sell and make some money back..

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Discussion Starter · #405 ·
I just realized...how's your adjustment look here? Because of where the plate is in the oblong holes, that would "artificially" made it able to go FASTER. Is your plate more centered?

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Well, maybe. It's still pretty close to overheating. The rad is really the only thing cooling it. If the fan is working and water pump and t-stat are new. Fuel doesnt seem to be doing it either.
Back to square one.
The recored rad becomes suspect. At least for me.
Stranger things have happened. I had 6.5 v8 diesel blowing smoke a couple weeks ago at work. Checked usual suspects, all working and looking good. Ra ro, now what.
It had a plugged breather assembly. Swap in a new one, and waaallaaa. Runs like new.
 

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I just realized...how's your adjustment look here? Because of where the plate is in the oblong holes, that would "artificially" made it able to go FASTER. Is your plate more centered?

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
Sorry, apparently phone issues. There is a plate on the front side of the MCS frame. It has the notches in it for the variator. The plate sits on a pair of studs, where the plate has slotted holes in it. If you were to slide the plate far to the right, you would physically be able to move the variator to a higher speed. Which would put more load on the engine. Mine I see is pushed all the way to the right. There are whiteness marks on the late where at one point in it's life, it was far the the left.

The breather, as in like valve cover breather? To be honest, I did not take that appart when I had the rocker cover off.

Also, have confirmed that the oil filter IR gun reading is 18F lower temp than the oil temp measures in the pan. And the rad top is 9F lower than the liquid temp.

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Yup, valve cover breather.
Again yes, an ir gun usually is a little off, but I've come to trust mine, hasnt failed me in almost 20 years, lol.

Heres my mcs variator mount.
4 bolts and no slots either side.
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive design Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Not the variator mount itself. But the panel on the forward face by the handle. See if this pic works...


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Mines bolted solid, no slots.
Fixture Gas Auto part Automotive exterior Machine


You just might have found something there.
Now you got a new theory to check out.
The plot thickens once again, lol.
 
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Very cool little investigation you guys got going! Subtle little changes in the designs always weirdly fascinate me
 

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I just thought of something funny, well to me anyway.
Your thinking that was slotted to increase speed, which it will do.
But, I'd bet it was done so they didnt have to buy a new belt.
That would be funny, sad, but funny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Definitely. I'd be surprised if that were not the case. Still, today at 72F out, got coolant to 217F. I can replace the hood foam since mine is a bit chewed up, add the firewall foam since mine is entirely missing, make that adjustment on the MCS lever. Other than that, not sure what else there is to do, aside from just live with it. Shouldn't give me much if any trouble in the future anyways since it is so much better than it used to be. No more coolant comes out the overflow anymore.

I could run with less weight, that'd sure help too. Also, it made a difference in how much it smoked today while running the MCS on 4 instead of 5. Four ought to be close to where maybe 5 "should" be if I move that little bracket to where the witness marks are.

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Just curious here now -

Who wants to claim the role of Sherlock Holmes and who wants to be Dr. Watson?

I haven't visited here in a long while now and this sleuthing is still ongoing!

Occams razor. Sooner or later it will smack you both. Keep going; as they say on some TV program - "The truth is out there".
 

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Discussion Starter · #416 ·
FYI, I added some foam around where the airbox slots into the plastic piece attached to the radiator. The induction inlet temperature dropped by like 36F (from 170F, down to 135F). This made it stop bogging, and smoke considerably less. Probably a great performance improver for anyone interested. So far otherwise, no discernable progress made. It seems running with the hood just cracked off the latch is actually worse for coolant temp than hood closed. Hood full open is obviously much cooler.
 

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FYI, I added some foam around where the airbox slots into the plastic piece attached to the radiator. The induction inlet temperature dropped by like 36F (from 170F, down to 135F). This made it stop bogging, and smoke considerably less. Probably a great performance improver for anyone interested. So far otherwise, no discernable progress made. It seems running with the hood just cracked off the latch is actually worse for coolant temp than hood closed. Hood full open is obviously much cooler.
You may have already done this, but have you tried running it without the side panels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #418 ·
I did. It makes like a 6F difference in coolant temperature. Surprisingly little. Open the hood, and all the problems go away. Opening the hood allows for unrestricted fresh air to come in through the space between the dash and the radiator (not breathing in through a straw), and freely flowing out of the fan mostly by the radiator inlet hose on the right, and above the injection pump on the left. Hood closed makes it outlet restricted, as it has to force the air along the sides of the engine to the front, and out the bottom. Each having the hood open, and the fresh air unrestricted are worth 9F in coolant temperature, together 18F in decreased radiator inlet temperature with the hood open vs the hood closed.
 

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I did. It makes like a 6F difference in coolant temperature. Surprisingly little. Open the hood, and all the problems go away. Opening the hood allows for unrestricted fresh air to come in through the space between the dash and the radiator (not breathing in through a straw), and freely flowing out of the fan mostly by the radiator inlet hose on the right, and above the injection pump on the left. Hood closed makes it outlet restricted, as it has to force the air along the sides of the engine to the front, and out the bottom. Each having the hood open, and the fresh air unrestricted are worth 9F in coolant temperature, together 18F in decreased radiator inlet temperature with the hood open vs the hood closed.
Good statistics knockknock! I’m surprised how little taking the side panels off helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #420 ·
Definitely. Though I will revise my statement above about it being worse to have the hood cracked....I didn't run long enough to make a good assessment of that, not that I took a closer look at the data.

I encourage everyone to add the sealing for the air box though! Big difference in performance.

So next good weather, I'll repeat my last test, as some of the data got corrupted. Followed by removing the speed up pulley in favor of the original. I have the original still, and I have not run that iteration to see if it makes a huge difference. While I do that, I'll measure my fuel consumption, as I just topped off the tank and measured the height in the tank. Should be just about 1gal/hour. Beyond that, add the missing foam on the lower fire wall, and replace the foam on the hood above the radiator.

If all that results in no luck, then check injectors again, and timing.

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