Knockknock, I thought the speed up pulley was standard on the 332 to make up for the lower rpm max compared to the Onan? Thanks B
Nope, still optional. All 3 engines had the same rated eRPM. For reference, here's the HP/Torque curves for the diesel I received from Yanmar. Notice the Continuous, One hour, and Max Power curve differences. Torque plotted is max.Knockknock, I thought the speed up pulley was standard on the 332 to make up for the lower rpm max compared to the Onan? Thanks B
Nailed it; February 1984. Interesting, as I bought the digital download directly from Deere (only one they had available), no updated revisions.knockknock332,
What is the date on the MCS manual? The 332 and 322 were not part of the initial open frame tractor lineup and came a few years later... The early 316 had the same peak power as the 332 and less than the 322 so that may not be the issue causing these two models to not be included in the MCS manual...
Hi Arron, Did your air filter come with the filter minder or did you adapted it yourself. Thanks.I had a strip of soft closed cell foam I stuffed around the circumference. It's worth noting too that my filter minder gauge did not change after this either. Which tells me that the foam is not increasing restriction, but forcing it to come through the hole above the rad.
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Sounds like it needs a mesh screen in the nose of the hood like the 60 series John Deere’s.I did. It makes like a 6F difference in coolant temperature. Surprisingly little. Open the hood, and all the problems go away. Opening the hood allows for unrestricted fresh air to come in through the space between the dash and the radiator (not breathing in through a straw), and freely flowing out of the fan mostly by the radiator inlet hose on the right, and above the injection pump on the left. Hood closed makes it outlet restricted, as it has to force the air along the sides of the engine to the front, and out the bottom. Each having the hood open, and the fresh air unrestricted are worth 9F in coolant temperature, together 18F in decreased radiator inlet temperature with the hood open vs the hood closed.
You also have the problem of the intake heat soaking. I imagine you could modify some 318 side panels to fit and have the engine suck air from one of the screens. Kinda makes me wonder how Mike Duwe got away with just sucking in engine compartment air on his turbo 332. His IAT’s must’ve been cooking.Definitely not insignificant. I added foam around the top of the rad firewall too, which made another 9 degrees improvement. I need to replace the foam on the hood, and the foam on the firewall below the radiator. I'm just not sure what I'm going to use yet.
I really like the idea of the mesh screen on the 4960 there. More airflow = cooler rad and induction. I'm wondering if I couldn't install some sort of snorkel on the induction inlet, and pipe it further away from the radiator (like under the dash pedestal) to get further induction temp improvement. At this point, I'm going full on "continuous improvement mode." The 3TN68e came with a donut style engine oil cooler (oil-coolant). If I make some mods for super airflow cooling, I might opt for one of those oil coolers too.
Yes, my thought would be either carve out the hood right above and rearward of the radiator (could he beneficial to engine cooling too). Or, snorkel down just near the dash (not down as far as the belly screen).You could cut a vent in the hood, right over the filter holder/bracket, and put a scoop there. It draws/moves air just like a 322 right? Pulls in air up through the belly screen and from the pedestal mesh vents...sucks it through the radiator and exhausts it out of the front of the side panels with engine heat. A snorkel down low might be problematic if it's too low.
18* BTDC is a good chunk of timing over the 8* that you originally had. Heck it’s a good chunk over 13*. Mine with all its hours is probably worse than yours at 8*. I guess worse case scenario you could just drop it back to 13-15 if it isn’t any better. But more advanced should drop EGTs.Yeah, super high induction temps plus turbo and no intercooler can't be THAT great for power or cooling, all things considered.
So, two more things I learned today. First: in the Yanmar application manual, one of the possible solutions to an overheating engine (or running at "excessively high ambient), is to run an engine that has more HP. It's funny at first, but kinda makes sense. Same load for larger engine would be less stress on the engine, and somewhat lower cooling demand.
The second item...The injection timing is supposed to be 13* BTDC according to the JD 220 manual for the diesel. However, we've already established that there are errors in the manual (for example the thermostat spec). I found that in the YANMAR manual for the same engine, it states that the injection timing should be 14* BTDC for medium speed engine applications (3000 RPM or less). Or, 18* BTDC for high speed engine applications (3000-3600RPM). That's a big difference.
Since the loaded engine runs at around 3200RPM, maybe I ought to advance the timing a scoche . Intrigue.
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My thought exactly. First however, would be to confirm what the timing mark on the flywheel actually is. Can't adjust without a frame of reference. Need to measure the diameter or circumference of the flywheel. Anyone have one sitting on a bench? Would make it a lot easier For reference, my EGT at the muffler tip is right around 900F with the MCS going.18* BTDC is a good chunk of timing over the 8* that you originally had. Heck it’s a good chunk over 13*. Mine with all its hours is probably worse than yours at 8*. I guess worse case scenario you could just drop it back to 13-15 if it isn’t any better. But more advanced should drop EGTs.