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Discussion Starter #101
Had a very interesting thing happen today! It's about 65F outside, and I sucked up leaves for around 40 minutes total. I specifically rode around particularly slow as well. After about 15ish minutes, the radiator top tank temp was about 217F, and there was maybe an ounce of coolant in my catch bottle. At this point, I popped open the hood, and just continued mowing with the hood open, checking top tank temp every 50 feet or so. The temp dropped to 200F and stabilized there. I dropped 2 loads from the MCS, and continued on with the hood open. Didn't get above 200F. For repeatability, I closed the hood eventually and kept going, checking the temp every couple minutes.

Then all of a sudden my overflow started to RAPIDLY fill. I mean it would have filled my 16oz container in under a minute had I not stopped. I checked top tank temp, and it was 221F. I sat there at 3/4 idle with the PTOs off for a maybe 20 seconds, and it kept filling the bottle, then slowed, stopped, and sucked all the coolant back in over the course of another 90 seconds. I went back to the garage and let it idle at 1/2 speed for another 10 minutes. Top tank temp was 180F at this point. I shut it down, nothing in the catch bottle.

My initial plan for today was to see the performance as is (catch up on leaves since I've been out of town the past week), then pull the radiator to send to the shop. This almost makes me think of the water pump impeller spinning on the shaft that has been mentioned several times. As if it was spinning the impeller less and less, then it just stopped altogether. Specifically noted that there were no bubbles coming out the overflow, steady stream. Oddly enough I had the same issue this weekend with my racecar....except the issue was an exploded serpentine belt tensioner, so it threw the belt, no water pump.

I'm going to clean it up now and start to take it apart. Like y'all said, having the radiator checked out can't hurt a thing. At that point it's 3 more bolts to pull the water pump, so may as well pull that at the same time.
 

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Aaron, EXCELLENT job of checking things! Nothing conclusive, but lots of info.
Some of my thoughts. I know air cooled engines run best at max speed and water cooled run best below max speed and max load. This kinda explains why 3/4 idle and no pto cooled the engine down. BUT, I believe the engine, by design, should be able to run full speed and full load and still properly cool. I think you're down to the last 2 steps: Check radiator and check water pimp. A problem with the pump, I think(??), is that the impeller is inside of the housing and will need to be pressed off to inspect. I would think the vanes should go all the way to the outside of the hub and any wear in the outer edges will reduce flow capacity of pump. If you have to remove impeller, might as well replace bearings and seals too! 'Bout all I can say about the pump!

Since you're going this far, I'd give serious consideration to replacing you fan belt. Disconnect drive shaft and replace and your good for another 25 years. Best of luck with whatever the findings are, Bob
 

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I'm thinking rad issue.
Either inside or out.
If all you changed was open the hood and you had a 17 degree drop. All you did was let the heat out the top. It seems your not getting air thru the rad.
Anyhow, good catch.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Radiator had a lot more crud in the fins than I would have imagined. As I cleaned it up pretty good when I did the swap in December. Going to bring it in anyway. Water pump is next.

As I mentioned early on, I added some high density EPDM sound deadening on the hood, and light foam on the side covers. The last 2 pics show this. Per the parts diagram on jdparts.com, there is supposed to be something on the right side anyway. Presumably a heat shield due to the muffler.


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The cooling fins on that rad need some help, lol.
I'm expecting the same when I pull my rad out.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Interesting side question for those who have done the 2-speed/diff lock mod...

What did you do about the used-to-be-sealed area on the right of the hydro/differential where the linkages now go through? It's a large leak path for debris to get sucked up now.

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Discussion Starter #109
Where did you get the foam in your side panels and how did you stick it on? I'd like to do the same with my 322.
The side panel foam is simply repurposed packaging foam from something. It might not be oil resistant or anything, but it's held up all summer no problem. I used 3M headliner adhesive. The shiny part is simply aluminum tape. The whole mod subjectively worked a little bit. It's quieter from the sides, but not the front and back obviously. The high density EPDM on the hood did a lot more (because it's high density). That is the expensive stuff.

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I gotta agree with Skwirl on the fins needing TLC. Those bent ends create a restriction due to turbulence. They don't necessarily block the air flow but they slow it down. (I did Air Conditioning work in the Air Force).

FWIW- that sound deadener is also acing as a heat insulator correct? You opened your hood and the temp's went down by 17° or so? :unsure:🤓
 

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Discussion Starter #111
A heat insulator kinda. It's not blocking the airflow from escaping, as I didn't seal it off hermetically. But the side panels don't get quite as hot. Not something that will be a problem. The hood open just gave a good indicator on not enough airflow I think.

The radiator I had actually straightened out the fins one at a time previously. They actually are better looking than the photo would make you think. But there WAS a ton of crap in the fins, you could barely see through some areas. Part of what prompted my question in post #107. Interesting since I have all the grills in place, and I blast all the debris out everywhere I can with compressed air every time I run it.

Broke a bolt getting the water pump off, and the screws on the back are seized/ stripping. I'm going to buy a new pump and be done with it. Will get it apart to inspect still though.

Radiator shop said 50 bucks to clean it up and all that inside and out with their power flusher. They said they could rod it, but suggest re-coring instead, as the price will be almost the same. Quick quoted me at $300, but said they'd get me an official hard number when I come to pick it up tomorrow or Wednesday.



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I was unable to get the back off my pump either without drilling the screws out. When I did I found the impella was fine. My issue was a leaking seal.


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Discussion Starter #113
I was unable to get the back off my pump either without drilling the screws out. When I did I found the impella was fine. My issue was a leaking seal.


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Leaking seal internal to the pump, like the back cover seal?

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Should be able to look thru the coolant passage where the rad hoses go and inspect the impeller.

What is the stainless block clipped to the injector hardline? A tach transducer?
 

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I'm not so sure about that insulation stuff on there. I think your trapping heat in there with it. The hood a side panels are the guides for the air to exit out the front. That would also help explain the temp drop when you opened the hood.
I think if your trying to quiet the rattles, a door seal type material around the edges would be better.
Jmho. Ymmv.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Should be able to look thru the coolant passage where the rad hoses go and inspect the impeller.

What is the stainless block clipped to the injector hardline? A tach transducer?
Yes, it's for a TinyTach. Worked great for about 6 months, then quit on me. Not sure what the problem is, something to do with the transducer for sure. When I monkey with it it randomly starts working, but occasionally will think I'm going 5000rpm. I don't bother with it anymore, might just remove it.

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Yeah, I am thinking the same as Skwirl...that side panel insulation helps trap heat, which exits out the front of the side panels. Like the hood insulation though. I've wondered about adding some kind of heat shield to the metal shield behind the battery tray...gets pretty hot under that hood. And the muffler location doesn't help much. Having clean belly screen, pedestal screens, radiator screen and radiator fins are crucial to keeping the air flowing through under the hood and out the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Alright, I think it's time to throw in the towel.

I replaced the water pump, and I had the radiator shop clean out the rad. They said it flowed very well, and they barely got any junk out of it. It also holds pressure, so that's good. As a side note, when I pulled it off, I noticed a lot more debris stuck in the fins than I would have thought for one season. This had me hopeful that it was simply an airflow issue across the radiator due to debris. I cleaned it out the best I could, the shop did a little bit more.

While I was at it, I cleaned up as much as I could all over the place, new belt, new overflow/drain hoses for the radiator, stuff like that.

Unfortunately, it's cold out now, so A-B comparisons are difficult. Today it was about 55F out. There was definitely a noticeable difference in the time it took to heat up. Either due to all the junk I cleaned out of the fins, the temperature out, or both. However, it still got up to 205F measured at the radiator top tank with the IR gun. I picked up leaves for 2 hours. Every time I filled the MCS, I'd check it as soon as it was full, and again after dumping the load. The temp by then dropped down below 190F, rinse and repeat until I popped a front tire tube.

Additionally, the overflow did still leak coolant out, though I was not collecting it in a bottle. Finally, after letting it run for 10 minutes or so cooling off while blasting all the debris off it, cleaning it up, ect... I parked it in the garage, and shut it down. Another 10 minutes later, I felt the radiator cap, which was still hot (but touchable). I opened the cap, and there was no pressure...

So far, I'm $384 deep trying to figure this out. My options now are...re-core the radiator at the shop for $305, new radiator for $946, or take it to the shop for unknown dollars and time. Will call the dealer on Monday.
 

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205 is getting up there but it's not terrible, and it's true that diesels like it hotter (within reason). If it's working hard and it's reliably on that now that you've done all the work, then although that's higher than average, I'd maybe monitor it over winter and then see what it's like when the weather warms up again. Is there any chance your injection timing is retarded because that could be contributing. If it's just a matter of not enough cooling capacity, you could go for a radiator with an extra row of tubes in it e.g. if it's currently a two-row, swap it out for a three row. That makes a significant change to capacity, although you have to ensure that you have the airflow as well. We did that when we uprated a V903 from 280 to 440hp and it maintained the cooling system operation.
 
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