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I'd sit tight and use it, maybe with the side panels off, and see if it heats up enough to throw the idiot light and whether it belches coolant out of the overflow. You're not that far over the temps Skwirl reported with his tractor. You can bet the dealer will be pricey, and will probably recommend a new head if it's leaking under pressure. If it keeps overheating enough for concern, that's probably the culprit...you could pull the head, clean it and inspect it...there may be a shop around that can check it off the engine. I'd just use it and be watchful, summer's over up your way, and get your fall chores done with it. Can't remember if you move snow with it...don't have to deal with that as far south as I am. You could probably buy a backup machine for about what it costs to core/rod the radiator, up your way, and definitely for the price of a replacement radiator. Don't toss the towel yet...walk away from it for a while, time will help you figure out your next step.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Thanks guys. This is really driving me nuts. Walk away is definitely the best thing to do for the time being.

I'm probably a third of the way there for picking up leaves. If it acts the way it did today, I should be fine for now and in the spring time. I'll put a catch bottle on it to catch coolant. I do have snow removal duty, but I've got a 955 with a loader I can make due with.

The temp I measured today I would have been OK with, had the ambient been about 25 degrees warmer. Still pushing coolant is not good, so a problem exists for sure.

Relating to injection...I noticed that the #2 delivery valve was damp. I did replace all three last summer because 2 of them were leaking. I sort of forgot that #2 still leaked after replacing it because it isn't visible most of the time. Cooler weather not allowing the diesel to evaporate as quickly.

I never touched injection timing, so it should be good.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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I wasn't paying enough attention before but if you're losing coolant, then check if the precombustion chambers have access to the coolant jacket - if so, you may have a leaking or cracked chamber, and that could also explain the high coolant temps. This would be less likely with a leaking liner seal and you'd also probably see a lot of coolant in the oil. Do you see any coolant there?. See this problem occasionally on old Cats. Chambers and seals are "usually" not expensive but I don't know Yanmar prices
 

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Discussion Starter #124
...you'd also probably see a lot of coolant in the oil. Do you see any coolant there?. See this problem occasionally on old Cats. Chambers and seals are "usually" not expensive but I don't know Yanmar prices
I haven't received my analysis back on the oil sample I took, but it looked fine at the time of changing, and has since. The level on the dipstick is right on the line every time I start with no sign of contaminates.
 

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I would have bet my last dollar the radiator would show an issue, but I guess I'd be stone broke now! Everything in the coolant system sounds like it's to spec, so I have no idea what the issue could be.

I can see a leaking head gasket using/loosing coolant, but not causing an overheating issue. A BAD leaking gasket may cause a hydrolock in a cylinder or two, but you'll notice that when starting or trying to start.

As far as coolant going into your recovery container, just the law of physic's: A liquid expands when heated and contracts when cooled. If your overflow hose goes to the bottom of your container, it'll draw fluid back in when it cools down. Just keep an eye on the level, I guess both hot & cold.

The only other condition that I can think of causing overheating is that the engine has been bored oversized...waay oversized! The cylinder walls can get too thin and too much combustion temperature goes into the coolant...more than the radiator can disperse of.

I wish I had some good ideas, but I don't!!! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Radiator cap...just realized yesterday that it does not have two gaskets. It only has the smaller one to seal off the radiator, not the large one that seals the top opening. Did I get 2 bad ones in a row? I was thinking last night since it's not building any pressure, maybe it's just leaking into the overflow due to not sealing.
 

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Aaron, You don't need 2 gaskets. I just pulled the cap off of my 322, 1 gasket.

Smaller gasket in center seals the opening in the radiator. As system warms, pressure builds and pushes against the "valve" with the gasket on it. When pressure reaches the rating of the cap, pressure opens the valve, releasing pressure and allowing the heated/expanded fluid to go out the overflow line. The only time you'd need a gasket on the top of the largest opening would be if your overflow line was blocked/plugged. Fluid would then flow out from under the cap and onto the top of the radiator. Bob
 
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