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I'd sit tight and use it, maybe with the side panels off, and see if it heats up enough to throw the idiot light and whether it belches coolant out of the overflow. You're not that far over the temps Skwirl reported with his tractor. You can bet the dealer will be pricey, and will probably recommend a new head if it's leaking under pressure. If it keeps overheating enough for concern, that's probably the culprit...you could pull the head, clean it and inspect it...there may be a shop around that can check it off the engine. I'd just use it and be watchful, summer's over up your way, and get your fall chores done with it. Can't remember if you move snow with it...don't have to deal with that as far south as I am. You could probably buy a backup machine for about what it costs to core/rod the radiator, up your way, and definitely for the price of a replacement radiator. Don't toss the towel yet...walk away from it for a while, time will help you figure out your next step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Thanks guys. This is really driving me nuts. Walk away is definitely the best thing to do for the time being.

I'm probably a third of the way there for picking up leaves. If it acts the way it did today, I should be fine for now and in the spring time. I'll put a catch bottle on it to catch coolant. I do have snow removal duty, but I've got a 955 with a loader I can make due with.

The temp I measured today I would have been OK with, had the ambient been about 25 degrees warmer. Still pushing coolant is not good, so a problem exists for sure.

Relating to injection...I noticed that the #2 delivery valve was damp. I did replace all three last summer because 2 of them were leaking. I sort of forgot that #2 still leaked after replacing it because it isn't visible most of the time. Cooler weather not allowing the diesel to evaporate as quickly.

I never touched injection timing, so it should be good.

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I wasn't paying enough attention before but if you're losing coolant, then check if the precombustion chambers have access to the coolant jacket - if so, you may have a leaking or cracked chamber, and that could also explain the high coolant temps. This would be less likely with a leaking liner seal and you'd also probably see a lot of coolant in the oil. Do you see any coolant there?. See this problem occasionally on old Cats. Chambers and seals are "usually" not expensive but I don't know Yanmar prices
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
...you'd also probably see a lot of coolant in the oil. Do you see any coolant there?. See this problem occasionally on old Cats. Chambers and seals are "usually" not expensive but I don't know Yanmar prices
I haven't received my analysis back on the oil sample I took, but it looked fine at the time of changing, and has since. The level on the dipstick is right on the line every time I start with no sign of contaminates.
 

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I would have bet my last dollar the radiator would show an issue, but I guess I'd be stone broke now! Everything in the coolant system sounds like it's to spec, so I have no idea what the issue could be.

I can see a leaking head gasket using/loosing coolant, but not causing an overheating issue. A BAD leaking gasket may cause a hydrolock in a cylinder or two, but you'll notice that when starting or trying to start.

As far as coolant going into your recovery container, just the law of physic's: A liquid expands when heated and contracts when cooled. If your overflow hose goes to the bottom of your container, it'll draw fluid back in when it cools down. Just keep an eye on the level, I guess both hot & cold.

The only other condition that I can think of causing overheating is that the engine has been bored oversized...waay oversized! The cylinder walls can get too thin and too much combustion temperature goes into the coolant...more than the radiator can disperse of.

I wish I had some good ideas, but I don't!!! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Radiator cap...just realized yesterday that it does not have two gaskets. It only has the smaller one to seal off the radiator, not the large one that seals the top opening. Did I get 2 bad ones in a row? I was thinking last night since it's not building any pressure, maybe it's just leaking into the overflow due to not sealing.
 

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Aaron, You don't need 2 gaskets. I just pulled the cap off of my 322, 1 gasket.

Smaller gasket in center seals the opening in the radiator. As system warms, pressure builds and pushes against the "valve" with the gasket on it. When pressure reaches the rating of the cap, pressure opens the valve, releasing pressure and allowing the heated/expanded fluid to go out the overflow line. The only time you'd need a gasket on the top of the largest opening would be if your overflow line was blocked/plugged. Fluid would then flow out from under the cap and onto the top of the radiator. Bob
 
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I am not sure if this has been mentioned before or not, but in one of the photos you last attached, it appears the outer edge of the fan blade is worn down (like the fan blades have hit the shroud). As a result, I went and looked at the fan blades on my 332 (820 hrs). The edge of the fan blades are not worn down, with an overall length of 3" from the edge of the fan blade to the fan hub blade base. Although my fan is not centered in the fan housing (fan blade tip to shroud clearance varies from 1/4" to 1/2"), it occurred to me that you might want to check the fan blade length. The fan blade length would be something that would be hard to notice a change in, especially if they are self-adjusting their length while running. A little change in air moving capacity (due to blade length) could certainly limit cooling capacity when you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Actually I measured them when I had the water pump off they are 2-7/8" long. Here's a question though...when running as max engine speed, how much air can you feel blowing out the front grill? I'll experiment tonight with just a piece of paper blowing. Subjectively, it does NOT feel like the. hurricane I would expect.

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Me again, I went back and looked at the photos you supplied again. From the photos, I don't think the injection pump timing is the issue. The shims that adjust the start of injection are located between the block and the injection pump. The hardware that hold the pump in place do not appear to have been disturbed since there isn't any witness marks of being removed after the engine was painted.
 

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So here is a quick test that I just performed. Tape a 8 1/2" x 11" piece of copier paper to the center of the tractor grill. I attached the paper such that the top edge of the paper was even with the bottom of the headlight bezel. Measure the distance from the grill to the bottom of the paper with the engine shut off (mine was 2.25"). Start the engine, and go to WOT. Measure the distance the bottom of the paper has moved forward at WOT (mine was ~8" but there was a difference from the right and left side of the paper. The right side was further out by ~.75").
 

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I don't have any feedback on that test other than to write that the airflow should feel "strong" and ideally somewhat even across the surface of the radiator. A gap of 1/4" between the fan blades and the shroud around the majority of the periphery is reasonable, and the fan blades should be roughly centered forward/aft of the shroud plane i.e. not totally inside of the shroud nor totally outside. If that's roughly what you have, then the fan/shroud relationship seems ok. You might have mentioned this before but is the fan belt in good shape and adjusted correctly? Fan belts can become less effective as they age / stretch / lose elasticity. Worn pulleys can also affect the efficiency. How old is the belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
The belt looked good and was probably replaced before I owned it. But as cheap insurance, I installed a new one with the water pump.

I pulled a muscle in my lower back this morning getting out of my car, so I won't be doing the subjective airflow test with paper till maybe tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
So here is a quick test that I just performed. Tape a 8 1/2" x 11" piece of copier paper to the center of the tractor grill. I attached the paper such that the top edge of the paper was even with the bottom of the headlight bezel. Measure the distance from the grill to the bottom of the paper with the engine shut off (mine was 2.25"). Start the engine, and go to WOT. Measure the distance the bottom of the paper has moved forward at WOT (mine was ~8" but there was a difference from the right and left side of the paper. The right side was further out by ~.75").
Finally able to try this. My measurements were 2.25" and 8-9" give or take a quarter at WOT. Paper taped along the bottom edge of the headlight bezel. Not incredibly scientific, but I'm comfortable saying that it eliminates airflow as the problem. Than you for providing your measurements for comparison.

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Aaron, I've got another test for ya! Run/use tractor for an hour or so with side panels on. Measure top tank temp. A day or so later, hopefully with similar air temps, run tractor for an hour with side panels off. Measure top tank temp. Thinking (??) it may run cooler with side panels off. Fan draws through radiator, along side of engine, and out front with panels on. Fan draws though radiator, along side of engine ( a little!), and out sides. Thinking reduced air flow may with sides may decrease cooling. This may be cooler and something to check. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Bob,

I did something similar a few months back (weeks? It all blends together these days). Though I ran with the hood open and side panels on. The difference was 221F or 185F. Which led me to believe airflow could be the issue. I think now it's just there's so much more airflow without the restriction (hood closed/side panels) that it can reject more heat with the hood open (or side panels off).

A little nugget I find interesting is that the 322 gas motor tractor has the extra vents in the front of the side panels, which the diesel does not have...

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Correct! (About 322 vents 'Course I did have to take a look at my 322 to verify the vents...memory is shot!)

Maybe more unrestricted air low is like unrestricted coolant flow when running without a thermostat.

With the tests, replacements/repairs you've done, you're cooling system should be 100%. Maybe it IS the injectors and you're running lean? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 · (Edited)
Ok, new news today. 60F out, top tank temp up to 212F. Took a while to get there, but I ran out of leaves. Couple oz in the bottle, but it sucked it back up.

HOWEVER! What do y'all think of this finding. You're looking at the radiator inlet.



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Well its a pressurized connection, so spray some soapy water around it next time you run/work the tractor. I've seen and driven vehicles that looked a lot worse in that regard. That said, I run my 212 in the summer here with the side panels off...it like the airflow that way.
 

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That almost looks like a crack, with the yellow stuff being sealer probably.
 
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