My steering on the 332 is loose. Installed new spindle bushings. Didn't help much. How do you tell if the power steering unit is going bad? With engine off, I can turn the steering wheel around very easily. Is this right??? Thanks, Mark
If the steering wheel turns easily and the front tires don't move when the engine is not running, the most likely cause is the check valve in the power steering assembly. When the check valve is working properly the manual steering is described as follows inthe TM1591:
<font size="-2"]MANUAL TURN:
If hydraulic pressure is lost, the machine can still be
steered without hydraulic assistance. All components
still function the same with the exception of the fluid
metering section (H). The fluid metering section now
acts as a pump, moving oil from one side of the
metering section to the other as the steering wheel is
When the rotation of the steering wheel stops, the
centering springs move the valve back to the center
(neutral) position, and will remain there until the
steering wheel is moved again [/COLOR]
Here is a picture of where the check valve is located on the power steering assembly:
You should also check the adjustment of the axle stop bolts as they effect the steering play as well...
Whats the trick to tightening up the loader so it doesnt rattle where the uprights join the subframe?
I have played around with moving the black wedges down and it didnt seem to help. I see there is an adjustment in the horizontal supports that go toward the front. Those are already as long as they can be I think.
Is there any tricks, or is this just how these loaders are ;/
Mike, my 40 does not rattle at all. Basically as the vertical posts tilt backward, the top of the metal wedge on the back of the post is supposed to jam against the black rubber wedge, and once installed and with the latch locked, the posts should be under a good deal of tension and unable to move at all.
Try installing the loader with the wedges up all the way, and then slide them down as far as they can go, against the metal wedge on the posts. Then uninstall the loader (you don't really need to take it off, just unlatch and tilt the posts forward) and move the wedges down a little bit more. I'd guess 1/8" will do, but you may need to experiment. If you've got it adjusted right, you should need to lift the front wheels off the ground to push hard enough against the wedges so you can close the latch.
If your rubber wedges are down all the way already and not jamming, something is definitely not right. I don't see the adjustment of the horizontal supports you mentioned - can you elaborate or take a pic? My supports are held on by two bolts on each side, but I don't see any adjustment there.
Tim I did that except for the 1/8" more down on the wedges. Will try that. I noticed one wedge was down a bit moe than the other and there is no gap on the one front side on the front weight bar. That might be the horizontal adjustment.
Mike this is rattling when moving the loader. I can see it moving in relation to the subframe. Not from the engine.
Thanks Mike! Now that I look again, with better light, and know what I am looking for, I can see mine does have those slotted holes. My setup seems to be adjusted pretty much in the middle of the range.
The rubber I was referring to was the rubber wedges, #3 in the diagram - the rest is steel.
Mike, rereading your description of one wedge being higher than the other, and the latching crossbar not being even from side to side, it almost sounds like the loader itself is "racked" or something is bent.
You may want to verify the mounting point heights are the same on each side, then install the loader and check its alignment.
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