Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I got the black 332 fixed and now the green 332 is acting up. Earlier I had a rpm problem and thought I fixed that by adjusting the screw on top of the injection pump.

The next day, after I had done that it started to sound sputtering, like an air problem. I thought now is the time if any to put a new air cleaner filter in and also change the fuel filter.

Started up again and it sounded erratic.

Next, I filled the fuel filter cup full and then turned the key to the on position and bled the filter and then I bled the fuel injection pump screw and got all the bubbles out.

After that, I started it up and it is doing the same thing, just staying at the same rpm, engine doesn't react to throttle movement either and it shakes like a 2 cylinder.

Next step in the trouble shooting fun, before starting again, I bled the above again, then started it and of course the same situation, this time while running, I cracked and bled each line going into the top of each injector. I did this several times over and over. I would then let it run for 20-30 minutes hoping that it would clear up on it's own. Nothing. I would continue to repeat ALL the above steps over and over for 2 days running. I would let the tractor sit hoping that the bubbles in the fuel would all float to the top hoping that I would have a better chance of getting the air out.

Gurus, what am I missing? What haven't I done right? Is there another approach at getting air out of the fuel system?

All I know that this is one heck of a learning situation and I am becoming an expert at bleeding the air out of fuel; maybe not an expert at getting out but know how to act like I do.

All comments are welcome. When I bought this from a dealer in TN, they had replace one injector and put a new one in but it ran great after that and was running great until I messed with trying to increase the rpms, and replacing the fuel and air filter.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
615 Posts
Jim,

Have you checked all your fuel lines from inside the tank to the engine, to be sure they aren't cracked or broken? If they are, air can be pulled into the line causing symptoms like yours.

Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,867 Posts
I pulled all 3 lines off my 332 when I put a new "shim kit" on the injector pump because of an oil leak.

She ran on 1 or 2 cylinder for a while, and it didnt sound pretty, but after some time it cleared up and ran fine on all 3.

You could have a plugged injector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Like Richard said it may be the lines going from the tank to the engine that have a crack in them. How do the fuel lines look? Are they kind of dry and brittle or are they still in good shape?

If it is the lines going from outside of the fuel tank to the engine, I would think you would be able to see some fuel leaking, or at least a wet fuel line.

To check and see if it is the line inside of the fuel tank, give it a full tank of diesel and then bleed the fuel system again. This will make the fuel level above any crack there may be in the line in the tank.

Did this problem start immediately after you made the change to the pump? If so, and none of the above things work, you may try putting what you changed back to the way it was.

Let us know what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
565 Posts
Jim,
"...it ran great after that and was running great until I messed with trying to increase the rpms, and replacing the fuel and air filter."

I would go back and triple check the fuel filter bowl.

Only other thing I could suggest is the lift pump. If it's not working correctly the injection pump is going to put some vacuum on the fuel system and encourage air to enter. But it would be weird timing to mess with the fuel filter AND lose the lift pump at the same time.

Good luck, keep us posted on the troubleshooting.}
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
ok heres goes my idea cuz i had it happen to my old 7.3. the o-ring was bad making it suck in air. it wouldnt leak but it made it run like hell for about 3 days before we found out what it was. try tat and see if its whats wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK guys, I will keep troubleshooting. Haven't touched it since Sunday. I have no leaks on any lines nor on the ground. I did something or I am not seeing what I did wrong when I messed with putting the new filters on or when I tried to increase my rpms. The throttle lever moves and the linkage on the side of the governor/pump moves but no increase or decrease in rpms now. Just sounds like a old 2 cylinder tractor popping.

I am going to try and take it down to my friend Steve Hayes' place and let him look at it. It never hurts to have someone else take a look. He may see something I am missing.

I will keep everyone posted and the steps we take to trouble shoot and then I will post "not" what to do when you mess with rpms or chancing filters. It would be easier if it was just a part that went bad and then I will feel better about my troubleshooting methodology.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ron, Well, Steve had me bring it down to his place and it looks like I did everything right and didn't screw any thing up. Here is what he found:

Quoted from Steve: "At some point in the past the fuel injection pump has been removed from this engine for some
reason. In order to remove the FP you must first remove a pin that holds the throttle linkage to the governor housing which turned out to be the key.
I realized pretty quick that air was not the problem. I removed all three high pressure lines and checked them for plugged lines and they were clear. They bled out quickly and the engine started up the way is has been. What
really concerned me was why the throttle lever had no effect on RPM. I removed the inspection plate on the end of the governor housing and I could press on the back side of the throttle lever manually and control the engine speed but it was stiff and would not respond to the external lever. To make a long story short, I removed the governor housing and found a loose piece of wire stuck behind the throttle lever. Apparently who ever put it back together lost the factory clips and just used some wire to hold the throttle lever in place. It appears that a piece of this wire broke off and got
lodged in the governor linkage."

Steve just has to order a couple of parts and he now says he has it running about normal. I tell you what Steve is amazing when it comes to troubleshooting and finding the problem. I can't thank him enough.

So that is where the green 332 is and should have it back by the end of the week. Then I can start working on my 330 I got.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 332 is running great and now my son has a diesel for plow day. Now we can plow side by side.

Thanks for everyone's input but most of all a great big thanks to Steve, a true friend.

Just have to find a good place to take him to dinner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Hi Jim,

Boy is Zach going to love having his own ride at the plow days !!! He sure looked like he was having a great time in PA....

So what are the plans for the 330 ??? If you ever think of .... well you know .... let me know !!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
My issue started as few weeks ago on my LX176 where it would begin to sputter and die after using for 5-10 minutes under load. I first thought it might have been some bad gas. I drained the tank and replaced the filter. Did not solve problem. I then thought the coil could be failing after getting hot so I replaced it. Did not solve problem. I noticed this morning that the fuel filter had very little fuel in it when running so I blew backward through the line into the tank to rule out an obstruction. I had a new fuel pump onhand so I put it on. Didn't solve problem. I then installed a 12V electric pump between tank and filter and it kept the filter about half full. It seemed to do a little better under load but still did not solve problem. I've pondered a dirty valve but it runs flawless until it is under load. I pulled the bowl on the carb for the first time in the 12 yrs I've had it and it was clean. Does anyone have any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,675 Posts
In that case I believe that engine has small electrical part on it called an Ignitor. That is what fires the engine. Very small piece with wires running to it. Hold on to your heart when you find out the price. Roger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
We had an igniter in stock at the dealership so I borrowed it. Didn't solve the problem. About the only thing remaining in the electrical system is the keyswitch module and the spark plug. I have a new keyswitch module in my personal stock. I ordered an inline spark tester so I can see if it's losing spark or if it's mechanical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
I'm hoping I have found my problem. I picked up a Lisle spark tester and ziptied it in place and ran the machine. It never died. I am thinking the spring on the end of the coil wire was losing contact with the spark plug.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top