[farmboy]

Making very some progress on my 300 project. Site glass added! Foot control prototype done but need to road test before I claim victory, My issue now is Power Steering. I bought a used 4 port valve off of #bay, bad move I think. On closer inspection of the ports, I can see silicon in the valve from what appears to be a bandaid type of repair. I assume this isn't standard practice as part of a rebuild. I have zero experience with Hyd control valves so I really dont know. My fear would be having some of the silicon break off and get into my pump. Any one know if JD still sells rebuild kits?

If you look close you can see blue silicon in the ports.

 

[trapperjohn]

Rodney, My guess is someone maybe smeared silicone on the tapered face of the male flared fitting because of leak he couldn't stop. I would put it in a vice and remove the four nuts and the plate with the fittings will lift off. Then you can see if there is any amount of silicone beyond there. If not, it could still be good. Make some mark on the plate so you put it back in the same position. Oh, and Yes, they do still sell the repair kit.

 

[farmboy]

Thanks Ron but the silicon appears to have squeezed from inside the valve.... I think I'll tear it down and rebuild with a JD kit before I test it on the tractor.

thanks!!

Rodney

 

[farmboy]

I just checked with JD parts and they say there isn't a kit available... Anyone know of a part number?

Rodney

 

[trapperjohn]

Rodney, When I said the repair kit was still available, I just bought one for a five port. That kit is # AM107078 and the one for your four port valve is SK000097. One is a John Deere number at $47.20 and the other is a Parker number at $93.00, but one site said they were the same. Google Parker service manual 2753 it shows the procedure for resealing them. I would do some more checking and maybe call Parker and ask them.

 

[farmboy]

Thanks Ron.... really appreciate your help... I'll get one on order... tks!!!!

Next issue will be to go with flex or rigid lines..

 

[farmboy]

Hey Guys,,, really confused here.. Purchased the rebuild kit to rebuild it the valve and clean out all the silicone that someone previous had "fixed" it with. Just to say.. the valve did spin freely before I tore it down. It took about 2 hours just to clean all the silicone out,,, i have the rebuild manual from Parker and followed it as well as i could but am stumped regarding the installation of the valve plate. With the short springs installed in their slots per the manual, the shaft wont spin more than 1/4 of an inch. If anyone could provide clearification regarding the assembly i would be very greatfull. I've reassembled the unit 4-5 times and everything seems correct but of coarse the shaft won't spin. thanks all.

Rodney

 

[trapperjohn]

It would be hard to diagnose unless someone had the same problem, but would it be possible you may have flip flopped a part and didn't notice? Does the manual show each part so you can tell which side is correct? When I do one, I clean off my work bench, I made the fixture to hold as the manual suggests, mark the whole stack with a straight line so the plates go back in the same orientation, lay down rags and lay out the parts just as I take them off and in their order. Before I start picking them up and examining them, I look for a difference in the two sides and note which is which. I know this is not much help, without being there, its about all I can offer.

 

[farmboy]

Thanks Ron, I did the same thing minus the fixture, I took pictures before I started, drew a line down the side... so the plates are aligned the same as before I dissassembled the unit. Although, the alignment of the port manifold on my unit doens't match the diagram in the manual. Mine has the springs sets aligned in the same clock positions while the manual has the 2 sets staggered. I am still assuming mine was assembled correctly by the PO. Also, I guess I don't understand the purpose of the springs. In the pic above, you can see that half of the spring will hit the valve plate if you try to rotate it. That cant be the intended alignment. The plate would only twist until it hits the spring. I'll tear it down later tonight and see what else I can learn.... I'll figure it out in the end...Thanks

 

[trapperjohn]

Rodney, I don't have one apart to see what that part might do, but the springs I would think will only let that part move until it compresses the spring a bit. It probably moves just enough to change the direction of the fluid from left to right. They may act as a shock absorber and that is not intended to rotate. I just disassembled them and replaced the seals and o rings and never tried to figure out how they work. Like you said you will figure it out in the end.

 

[farmboy]

Thanks Guys... I did figure it out finally... I had over tightened the 11 screws on the rotor assembly which basically pinched the rotor in the assembly preventing it from turning. After this final adjustment it spins free again.. I'm glad i went through this in detail because there were several plates oriented incorrectly. Should work now when I plumb it up.
Rodney