NO problem GREGG, folks here have been helping me out since I got this 400 money-pit. time to return the favor. there is an old song by JOHN PRINE titled, ''There's a Hole in Daddy's Arm Where All the Money Goes'' in my case there's a hole in daddy's garage where all the money goes. ha. PARTS LIST 1/4'' key stock 12'' long. $2.00? I all ready had some. I got the shaft coupler from SURPLUS CENTER.COM, part# 1-1563-E, cost $10.00. I got the following parts from BAILEYNET.COM, one 3/4''x3/4'' yoke part# 133-014, cost $27.00. next you will need TWO, 1''x1'' yokes, part# 133-016, cost 27.00 each. next you need one 3' length of 1'' keyed shaft, part# 136-704. cost $30.00. the locktight and anti sieze I already had. and that's it for parts. the reason you have to buy TWO 1'' yoke assy's is because you have to take one and break it apart along with the 3/4'' and build you a 1''x3/4'' yoke assy. for the shaft to pump fitment. you will end up with two rear assy's. cant be helped. but now you have an extra rear yoke assy. for a spare or to sell or God forbid, your OTHER 400 ha,ha. these yoke assy's are the 1000 spicer series type, and are forged units. replacement u-joints abound. they are also the high angle type which allows easy access to the grease fitting, and ease of disassembly and assembly because of the long arms which give ample access. when you build your new shaft, make SURE you don't knick it or get welding spatter on it. be careful you don't knick shaft when you install it. you want to be able to slide the collar in the future. you will need a flat hand file to dress the key stock as needed, where needed. I had to use a die grinder with a sandpaper shaft to lightly dress out the inside of the collar. don't take to much off, just test fit over and over till you are happy with it. its no problem. also spot weld those two key stock pieces where I did, down in the valley, so as to not have interference with collar slide in any direction. the wooden dowl is a must, for safe, easy installment on tractor!! AKA broom handle will work also. don't let wife see this. if you booger up a shaft to bad, no sweat, you've got several feet left over. the only equipment I used to build this was a phneumatic die grinder, a mig welder, 4 1/2'' side grinder with cut off disk, various small flat files, measuring tools, black and silver Sharpie pens, a scribe, masking tape. etc. these are the measurements I used. they allow about 1/8'' clearance where the two shafts meet face to face inside the collar. you MUST have SOME clearance here in order to fold them together or take them apart. also, don't weld fan on backwards, no need to weld the snot out of it also. a 3/4'' bead 180 degree apart is plenty. now before someone harps about not welding the yokes to the shaft; let me remind you that a drive shaft is like a chain. it is only as strong as its weakest link. look where the yoke meets the pump, one little 3/4'' shaft and a pueny woodruff key. remember, if you do weld you need to do it in the tractor with a dial indicator, or in a lathe with a dial indicator so as not to create to much run out. I found the shaft to yoke fit a GOOD snug fit. no problems what so ever. the worst part of this build was I did not know before hand if this could be pulled off, clearance and placement issues and so forth. alas, it can be done! the best and most enjoyable part about this job was I got to ''STICK IT TO THE MAN''...the GREEN MAN. teach him to price me a non serviceable, throw-away shaft for $816.00 plus 9% sales tax. GO NAVY!! later J.Z.M.
