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I meant they ended up in our septic system but I can see why you were expecting a fat guy :D
 

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I bought a carb for the 172 ci 4 cylinder engine in my Ford 800 too and now I'm wondering if it's good. I better try it before I actually need it. I have three of the engines it will work on. One is sitting on an engine stand that will allow it to be started and run. The stand is very sturdy so it could actually be used as a stationary engine. Hasn't been run for years though. The other 172 is on my big old sandblasting rig.

But, there's more going on in an automotive carb.
I started that Ford/Kohler engine up yesterday just because I mentioned it and the cheap carb. Fired right up and ran nice. The engine stand was dancing like a drunken fool so it was obviously pleased too.
 

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New carb on the Kohler. If you guys ever buy one make sure it has the choke and throttle cable configuration you need. You should be able to tell if it's the right one by looking at the pic for the eBay ad, which is what I did.
265340
 

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New carb on the Kohler. If you guys ever buy one make sure it has the choke and throttle cable configuration you need. You should be able to tell if it's the right one by looking at the pic for the eBay ad, which is what I did.
View attachment 265340
Or iSaveTractors caves come with both configurations I believe.
 

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New carb on the Kohler. If you guys ever buy one make sure it has the choke and throttle cable configuration you need. You should be able to tell if it's the right one by looking at the pic for the eBay ad, which is what I did.
I diligently found the clone carb that had the right arm configuration but, to my unsurprise, the one that came had the wrong arm setup. Interestingly, the clone was accurate enough that I swapped in the old OEM carb throttle and choke shafts and plates and it worked just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'll probably order one of the clones to have on hand since they are so cheap.
Over the weekend I checked the fuel pump pressure and was reading 3psi, which I'm assuming isn't too much. I got the OEM Kohler carb kit and put it in, and set float according to manual. Put in on tractor and only had time to run it a few minutes, but it seem to run pretty good. A little hesitation when increasing throttle, but I'll do some mixture adjustments and see what happens. Also replaced the fuel filter. It was a little dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Had tractor out again this weekend and it's doing the exact same thing with rebuilt carb and new filter. Very odd. I'll keep looking and see what I can find. Could a pump be pumping too much sporadically?
 

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I have no idea what the pressure control mechanism may be in the Facet electric pumps, but have never seen one give over-pressure--only fail by pumping no fuel. If you have the cannister type air filter housing, is there any chance the bottom of the cannister is beating on the carb primary fuel needle adjusting screw? Some air horn versions were too short and allowed contact of the housing and needle screw. Does your tractor have excessive vibration or are you working on really rough or steep ground that could cause the carb float to bounce with subsequent fuel spillage? You indicated that the in-line fuel filter was a little dirty. Is there any debris coming from the fuel tank or fuel lines, some of which (like fine rust particles) may pass through a 60 micron filter? Did you find any residue in the carb bowl?
Harold
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I don't believe it's anything with the air filter or vibrations. When it's been doing it is level ground, concrete garage even...haha, and I can remove the air filter and see the fuel being pumped in.
When I took the carb off the first time, there was indeed some debris in the bowl. Very very fine rust particles. Would those continue to cause the issues you think? Maybe two filters are and really good tank cleaning are in order.
 

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Possibly the rust particles that were in the carb bowl damaged/nicked/grooved the float needle or seat. Another issue may be (??) carb adjustment. Warm engine and adjust mixture needle valves, as well as idle speed. If idle screw is opening throttle plate too much, the engine may be trying to run on idle mixture and hi speed mixture... throttle plate position, set by idle screw, determines this. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I put a new kohler seat and valve in the carb. It's not a mixture issue, with the engine off and fuel pump on, it's pumping gas into the carb. overflowing.
 

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If carb is flooding with engine off and only fuel pump running, I'd say bad float or needle & seat...even if new! The float pushes against the needle which pushes against the seat and this is the ONLY thing that stops fuel from getting into carb. Pull bowl and shake float. It may have a leak, is full of fuel, and doesn't "float". I don't know the spec for the 400, but my 322 w/electric pump has a spec of 2-4 psi. Bob
 

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Could also be float adjustment... set lower than spec when hanging down from carb... this puts more upward pressure on needle when float tries to "float". Also, try to verify float is not hitting something inside bowl preventing it from raising. I'm not saying I'm right, just some thoughts! Bob
 

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Whatever it is it has to be figured out. We can't leave it unanswered. I'd like to be the one who noodles up the solution but I'm not very good at troubleshooting carbs. I probably have a better chance of figuring out who put the ram in the rama lama ding dong.
 

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In reading and rereading all of the posts and the repair options you have tried, there have been some really good suggestions and it's possibly a debris issue that keeps getting past your filter - but maybe not. A couple photos of your setup and a photo of your fuel filter might help us. Some of the "pancake" shaped fuel filters are nothing more than a bug screen and don't help filter particles that could cause problems. What kind of fuel filter are you using? After your multiple carb cleanings and various carbs you've switched out, I think you would have found large debris if that is your only problem though. The only thing that appears constant here is your fuel pump. In post 16 a really good suggestion was made that would isolate your fuel pump. Have you tried that suggestion?
 

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This may be a bit far reaching. I’m not an expert on electric fuel pumps but I’m assuming you tested the fuel pump pressure with the engine off and a battery voltage of approx 12.5V. Can you send us the name and model number of your fuel pump? If it is not internally pressure regulated and if by chance your voltage regulator is overcharging your battery more than say 15 volts, I wonder if your fuel pump is delivering more than 3 psi with the engine running, especially at high speed. A quick check of the voltage at your battery with the engine running at full RPM should be approx. 14.5V or less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yes, I'll definatley keep updating and get it figured out. I'm a little slow with working on it with 2 young kids and a big yard and garden to work on.
That's a good point on the voltage. I'm not sure what brand and model pump it is, but I assume original. I know the history of the tractor back to new, and if it was replaced before I got it, it would probably have been done by the deere dealer. I did check pressure with the engine off of course, but the pump will overpower the needle valve with the engine off too. I have not tried the external tank method yet but will try.
I think my next step is to pull off the carb again and see what kind of debris there is in it. The filter I'm using is similar to this Amazon.com: Kohler 25 050 22-S1 Engine Fuel Filter 51 Micron with 1/4-inch Fuel Line Inside Diameter: Industrial & Scientific
 

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I did a little digging into Facet fuel pumps. Not sure what pump you have on your tractor but if it is an electric driven pulse type, I'm guessing it has a solid state circuit driving an electromagnetic plunger and most likely the output won't change with higher voltage. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Small update - filled carb up with water and it's cutting off flow as it should. Hooked fuel pump to it when full and it wouldn't override the needle valve. Pumped some more out of the tank and the filter just doesn't seem to be stopping the crud. Next step is to pull tank and clean, and replace all hose and a new filter. Maybe two filters.
 
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