Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Awhile back, I put the 20hp Honda in my 400. I thought it went in fairly smoothly. It ran like a champ, and I cut maybe an acre and a half with it.

While finishing up, I noticed hydraulic fluid all around the deck. Not good.

For some reason, I recalled seeing somewhere that a drive shaft too far to the rear would eat up the front seal of the hydro. Whether right or not, I concluded that's what it was. At that time, I had to do a number of other things, and wanted to deal with it later. That one cause would produce lots of hydro fluid.

I'm starting to get back to this problem. Looking at it, I can't tell if that's the problem or not. Because I can't tell by looking, that adds weight to that being the problem (shaft tailend is sticking inside the hydro housing, sort of. No way to judge clearance down there.

I can fix it by taking the engine out and doing some re-rigging. The front seal is not expensive for a do-it-yourself repair.

Before I get going on this, please let me know if anything else down in the innards could split/tear that would do this. Yes, I would like for it to be a hydraulic line, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,867 Posts
What type of coupler do you have on the engine for the driveshaft. There is a chance your preloading the hydro pump bearings (and the engine bearings) if the driveshaft is too long and pushing on the transmission shaft.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
RB, there should be a small gap from the end of the yoke to the face of the pump, if yours is into it like you believe, then yes, you probably tore the seal lips. Without a space, even just long grass etc can wrap and jam the seal and eventually eat it. Remember too, your tranny is rigid mount, but I assume your engine is still on rubber which means it can move around and exert more pressure still on that seal. You need that space in there, as you know, the driveshaft itself does not have a slide built in.

On the flip side, I had to play with the hydraulic lines on the top of the pump/tranny, that go to the pressure system, 3 times for annoying leaks. The second time was my own fault, didn't know Deere doesn't use a standard flare angle and I used a brake flare tool to remake the end


Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for input. I thought about putting xmsn fluid in and re-starting. Problem is, if it's an actual "long" drive shaft, it could lead to even more problems by doing that.

Guess I'll pull the engine. Pulling it is no big deal. That will tell me if it's a bad front seal on hydro.

If it's a "long" drive shaft, I'll shorten it by some amount, maybe .5 inches. The problem is all my belts on front line up perfectly when you view the engine from the side. To do anything else, it would throw the belt alignment off.

Once I get it out, then I can do some measurement and come up with approximately the right amount to shorten.

Oh well-----here goes.....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
RB
You may be able to literally cut 3/8" plus off the end of the yoke at the hydro end, they have a pretty lengthy engagement onto the input shaft, can't see 3/8 to 1/2 less effecting it much. Would basically be a free fix (chop saw and a bit of filing) compared to having the center section cut, rewelded and balanced.

Greg
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top