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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning everyone! I have a new to me '75 400 that I bought a rear PTO and tiller for (separate from the tractor). The tractor came with a 3 pt hitch, so I thought all was good to install the rear PTO. Then upon starting to install the PTO, I learned that the rear trans dip stick needs a reroute kit and the elimination of the dip stick in order to install the PTO. Does anyone know where I can source this kit or know fitting sizes so I can piece something together without the official kit?

I also found that the rear brackets for the hitch plate had been modified and welded together to reinforce the hitch mount. Looks like the angle grinder and I are going to have some fun...
 

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I'm not sure what a reroute "kit" would include but the later model 400 (mine is 1981) have a sight tube and a 3/8" pipe plug instead of the dipstick. I went through my pictures and don't have anything real illustrative but maybe you can enlarge these and get an idea. The second picture has the pipe plug. In the first picture I have added a vertical tube to make it easier to fill from a funnel up higher. Third picture shows using the funnel. Yes, this is not a very original 400.

The sight tube comes out the side of the fitting in the back of the transmission and connects up to a fitting on top of the transmission. There is a real small hole in the upper fitting to vent the sight tube (it might be the only vent for the transmission but I'm not sure). jdparts illustration may also provide some clues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jay! Your 400 is very nice from what I can see. Are you the same "grandpajay" from MTF who built a custom FEL for your 400? I'll post up a picture of the hitch plate that I need to take my angle grinder to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's a picture of the hitch bracket that I need to "unmodify"

I also think that the 3 pt hitch could be homemade. The drag arms (lower arms - not sure if I am using the right term) are VERY thick compared to pictures I've seen of others. I will take some pictures of them later. I will also start a new thread to highlight what I'm doing to this tractor.


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Yes, Arrow-I am the grandpajay over on MTF, too. My 3PH is homemade so don't use it for a model of original equipment. It looks like either my tow hitch is upside down or yours is. Looks like not too bad a project to get it restored. Good luck on your 400!
 

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Here's a view of my 81 400. Make sure the vent (JD calls it a filter for some reason) is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, my initial thought is that to quickly get the PTO on, I could simply cap the dipstick tube after assuring that the fluid is at the proper level. I really don't want to remove the fuel tank and fender deck as JD recommends to remove the top vent tube and get a sight fill tube setup installed. However, I do think that I might be able to come up with a non-JD kit solution from parts off the shelf. But I should probably call some guys over at www.greenpartstore.com or other places to see if they can get their hands on the parts I would need and what the cost would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh and the hitch plate on mine was installed upside-down and then had the gussets welded to it. And they still managed to bend the plate from the weight of something!
 

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I have a spare set of the fittings off a transaxle that I grenaded you can have. No clear hose or the filter, though. Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How exactly did you grenade the transaxle? I thought they were more or less bulletproof.
 

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Bullet Proof, Not Grenade Proof? =)
 

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I don't want to derail Arrow's thread but I was picking away at digging out a stump when it gave up. About 1100 pounds of loaded turf tires w/chains and ballast and just the right traction conditions to really anchor the rear end. I heard a bad ratcheting sound that turned out to be the axle spline to the pumpkin. Maybe bulletproof, but not grandpajay proof. Now when the tires spin under significant load, I breathe a sigh of relief and just consider the traction loss as sort of a overload fuse blowing. Thanks to you guys that part these machines on Ebay, I was back in business quickly and now have a parts transaxle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So what does the filter/vent do precisely? I am going to see if I can source one.

Also, would anyone know what might cause fluid to leak out from the transaxle area when facing downhill and stationary and activating the lift hydraulics? I had the tractor backed up on the ramp of a uhaul trailer (which was already on a slope) and was getting the 3PH connected up to the tiller to lift it when I saw a puddle start forming. At most probably only 4-8oz came out. There was no sign of a leak before attempting this and it stopped all signs of a leak after the tractor wasn't on that steep slope. I also couldn't trace where it leaked from. The only thought I had is that it might have come from the overflow or vent. I also noticed that the vent tube isn't very tight and I can actually rotate it around until it hits the rockshaft bracket (I believe that's the correct term for it).

Here's a picture of it as it sits now showing the 3PH and transaxle. I also believe that I need new links connecting the lower drag arms to the lift arms - these ones are quite bent and don't look like any factory piece I've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, looks like the filter is easily sourced for around $12. Seems to be referred to as a fuel filter in many places. However it doesn't seem to have any actual filter medium in it.

Would anyone be so kind as to take a couple measurements of the location of the hole through the bracket on the left side where the house goes through? Mine doesn't have that hole, so I figure that I'll n need to make one. Thanks!
 

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When I changed out my sight tubing so I could see through it better, I didn't route it through the hole in the bracket. I just formed a nice loop up to the vent/filter and then to the upper fitting. I can't see mine right now but IIRC that "filter" had just a real small hole-1/16" or so on the top side. I think you could just get the smallest fuel filter possible anywhere and drill a hole in it and be fine. I think all that hole does is vent the sight tube to keep it from air locking and giving a false level.

It looks like you are going to need a left side axle tube. Not sure if the hose clamp holding the broken ear will hold up to the tiller.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, I foolishly noticed that after buying the tractor. Both of the axle tabs on the left side have broken. The outer tab has been welded, the inner one seems solid with the hose clamp, but the tiller might kill it. I am looking at borrowing or buying an arc welder to weld that tab, but access is tight, so it might be easier to replace the tube. Guess I need to search eBay.
 

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Here is some pictures of the strategy that I employed to beef up the 3ph axle tube ears. They have been known to break and I thought to move some of the forces around ahead of a problem. I don't anticipate doing much ground engagement beyond a land plane. Some of this fits into the category of "because I can". The goal was to move some of the stresses to the hitch brackets that are significantly attached to the transaxle housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wow, that is one serious looking 3PH setup!

Is anyone able to tell me what the lower slots are the rear PTO are supposed to rest/hang on? It seems like there should be a stud or bolt on the rear hitch plates and although I see a hole that could work, I don't know what should go in that hole to support the PTO. I can't seem to find it in the parts diagrams either.
 

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Arrow,
Maybe you have everything together by now, but if not, I will try to fill in some pieces. Yes, there are 3/4" od studs at the bottom frame hole that the rear pto mounts on. These studs are simply made using a 5/8" long piece of 1/2" id x 3/4" od tubing held on by a 1/2" x 2" bolt with washers and nut (I can get a pic). I believe that initial fluid leak on the slope was from the loose vent tube with perhaps an over-filled tranny. It is generous of Jay to offer the special 3-way 90 degree fitting used in the hose vent tube assembly. Those are nla, and I have not found such a 3/8" fitting from general hardware sources. Instead, some 1/4" npt fittings (reduced size for space limitations) can be used to make a comparable arrangement as seen in the pictures. These include a 3/8" to 1/4", adapter, 1/4" "T", plug, and 1/4" straight hose barb for the lower part. Attaching the 1/4" clear hose at the upper end is done with a 3/8" to 1/8" adapter and angled 1/8" hose barb. The so-called vent filter is made from a small engine filter with 1/4" tips after drilling a small hole in the side. (Note that setting the "T" at a slight angle allows attachment of a nipple and hose for filling the tranny) The hose goes through a hole in the left bracket. On later tractors the hole is 5/8" from the rear, outer surface of the bracket and 1" from the top. The hole I drilled gives a better alignment at 1-1/8 from the top. Of course, if you get the proper fitting from Jay, you need not worry about the fittings and drilling the hole as Jay mentions. Maybe another member can benefit from all of these details, and other combinations of fittings can be used within size limitations. These fittings came from a combination of local harware stores and Surplus Center. For clarification, the large piece cut out of the right bracket by a previous owner has nothing to do with the hose vent system. I did cut a small notch in the left bracket for wrench access that proved unnecessary.

Your 3-point hitch should be functional, but without ball joint ends on the lower arms it will stress the mounting ears on the axle. Addition of sway chains that are a part of a standard 3-point hitch should help matters. Of course Jay has designed the ultimate in "sway chains" because even with a standard 3-point the ears can be broken if you work at it. Welding your left axle tube ear is not something to take on unless you have experience welding heavy cast iron.
Harold

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Harold, thank you for all of that information! Yes, Jay was kind enough to pass along those parts to me, they're in the mail as we speak. Once I get them, I'll get everything installed. I actually found a left side axle housing on eBay and ordered it along with a new old stock bearing and seal for the outer end of the axle housing. Probably going to source the inner bearing and seal shortly too. I figured it would be best to swap the axle for the price than weld the tab without significant practice (been yrs since I last welded).

I also have the chains for the 3PH, I just removed them when I took the hitch brackets off to 'unmodify' them. That is a good point about the ball joint ends. I hadn't thought about that fact. Might look at buying a different 3PH since this one obviously has issues...

If you could share a picture of those studs, that might be helpful. I have a bucket of spare parts that were included and after looking through it, there might be a few good pieces haha. Also found what appears to be several damaged steering linkages (ball & socket) for the steering arms.
 
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