[tfgaasch]

I have been slowly eliminating the slop in my steering. Last year I replaced the rod ends that were wore on the main and cross steering shafts. A couple weeks ago when I was getting the new to me model 47 blower mounted I noticed the rod end on the steering cylinder needed replacement.

Ok so here is my question, when I assemble everything with the spacer on the bottom the rod end seems to bind on the steering arm. I am betting that is why the other one was floping around. Every diagram I have seen shows from bottom up is spacer bushing, washer, rod end, and last washer.

Has anyone else ran into this issue.

Thanks

Tim

 

[jameszmcnelley]

Tim, There are three things that will cause binding at this location. It can be one or any combination of the three listed here.
1- Shaft is bent on steering cyl.,generally at the threaded area.
2- The steering arm that is welded to the spindle is no longer in proper alignment.
3- There is excessive wear in the axle end where the upper part of the spindle rotates.

#3 is the most likely culprit. It will also cause #1 & #2 to occur eventually.

Raise tractor. Grasp top & bottom of tire and push/pull to see how much play is involved.
Wheels sit 18 degrees inward at the bottom from factory.
I did a repair ''how to'' on this about a yr ago along with 5 lug hub conversion. It entailed axle drill out and bushing installment along with building new king-pin/spindles, but I cant find the post. Lots of labor involved but well worth it for a permanent solution on a ''keeper 400.''
The only good news I can give you is; those rod ends can be got from e-bay for about $9 each delivered. Chrome plated and with installed grease zerk. Mine are still functioning perfectly after a year. later, JZM

 

[tfgaasch]

Thanks James.

Now that I have slept a bit I have a much better way of looking at things. The cylinder is pretty good, I tried rotating the rod to different orientations last night and always had the same interference. So i am betting it is #3 you stated. Will try to check that out today.

I remember that conversion you did. I'll look it up agian and chose a plan of attack soon. Agian thanks

Tim

 

[tfgaasch]

James.

I finally found the post you did on converting the front to hubs. It is in the archives. Did you do any work to the axle (machine and bushings)?

Also thanks for posting the service manual.

Later

Tim

 

[jameszmcnelley]

Timothy,
I forgot to mention, my spacer is on top of the rod end. I don't know which way is factory. That was the way it came to me, and that's the way I put it back. I had know binding issues after the build.
The axle stubs are 1'' from Northern Tool. At the weld fitment area, they are the square type.
There are no bushings on the axle to hub fitment. The hubs come with automotive, conical style bearings and races. I used the low speed type from Supply Center for $10 each. There are other brands and degrees of quality in these hubs and their bearings. Do you really need a $50 hub?, is up to the buyer. Certainly don't need a high speed hub on a garden tractor.
If you plan on custom mounting some front wheel weights in the future, I would recommend you use a 4 lug hub. Much easier on stub placement for the weights.
The 8x8 trailer wheels I used are a DOT approved for highway use type. [that's overkill, but that's what was available.] They come powder coated in white with 100% paint coverage.
I picked them up for a steal at $13.99 each with free shipping at the time; from e-trailer.com.
They have 0 degree offset and are reversible. Which will come in handy in maintaining an even tread-wear pattern, over time.
later, JZM