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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everybody. So this may be an odd request, but would help me out quite a bit. I bought a set of gears for a 420/430 and an empty differential case for a 318. I want to mod the case for the 2 speed and the diff lock. The question I have, is I’d like some measurements for where the 2 speed shifter detent bolt goes. Like if someone with a 420/430 could measure from the RH side of the case over to the midpoint of the bolt hole for me.



The empty case I purchased will be here tomorrow hopefully. I don’t think there’s a cast boss where I need to drill. Looking at my 332 I cannot see one, but the 2000rpm rear pto blocks my view. I’ll know a bit more tomorrow when the empty case arrives.

Just above the hydro fill port is the bolt in question.
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Just above center in this pic is the bolt


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It’s a 1/4-20 bolt/washer/spring/ball bearing that seats into the shifter shaft. It’s what holds it in Hi -N- Lo position, so placement is pretty critical. I’ll only get one shot at it !
 

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I have a 318 case and there's no boss. I can't get at my 430's bolt to measure it because there's no access without dismantling it so hopefully someone has one open that can be measured.
But I have a request for you please - could you count the number of teeth on the gears starting from the forward-most shaft in the transmission for the 430 gears you have. I've counted them based on the parts catalog and some pictures on the web but I'd like the definitive count if that's possible. If you can put the gears in order, that would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a 318 case and there's no boss.
Didn’t think there was a boss...Thanks for the reply...I will take a look at the gears this afternoon. Planning on dropping the gearset into the case and doing some measuring for that detent based on the shifter rod. Can get a tooth count for you then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hey Neil, I just had a minute yesterday to actually unwrap everything and look at it, and now I got to go to work these next three days. What gears are you wanting a tooth count on? I took staycation time next weekend so I will have time to take a pic of each gearset (There’s 3 plus the diff) and email them to you. I did find This as well, so it may confirm some findings you already have - or you may have already seen it.

Modding the case doesn’t seem too bad, the holes for the two shafts will need bored to size both thru the cover and the blind end inside the case. I will probably farm out counterboring the seal holes. I will need to get the shaft blind holes opened in the case so I can then seat the gear select rod before I can measure for the detent bolt/ball. I’m going slow because it’s my only tractor and can’t be down from mower duty til the grass quits growing here - Octoberish usually. Hope to have it ready to just swap in and go by that point.
 

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Could you get all of the three shafts please. The input shaft has the bevel gear then the two driving gears for high and low. The second shaft has the two driven gears for high and low, plus the spur gear to the third shaft, which has the two spur gears. I have the differential bull gear so am all set there.
Cheers,
Neil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I measured and drilled for the 2 speed detent, and bored the holes for the shafts in the larger case half. Visually, it looks like I did good. I’m going to pick up the parts (bolt/washer/spring/ball) for it tomorrow and test it. Just need to bore the casting for the seals now.

Here some pics of the gear train for Neil. Let me know if you need more/different angles.

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This is great thanks Kris. The only one I couldn't count confidently is the driven/input gear on the brake shaft (the second shaft in) which I make as 13 teeth, same as on the spur shaft (the third shaft in). If you can confirm that they're both 13 teeth, then I'm all set.
What did you use as a reference point for drilling the set screw hole, and how accurate did you need to be for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You’re welcome.

What did you use as a reference point for drilling the set screw hole, and how accurate did you need to be for it?
Well, I bored out the casting for the shifter fork shaft to 1/2” on the deep part of the gearcase. Then I dropped the gearset into the case. I could then raise/lower the shift fork into the three positions (L N H), and scribe a witness mark on the shaft itself referencing from the top of the casting hole. Measuring from the scribed mark of the shifter shaft to the groove in the shaft (where the detent ball goes) was .325”. Then I used a straightedge and measured from the gearcase mating surface inside down to the top of the bore for the shiftfork. Adding those two measurements gave me the distance I needed to measure on the outside of the case. There was actually a little groove cut in the case that helped line up my straightedge and transfer the layout so I could centerpunch a drill starting point. I think the gears are fairly wide and have quite a bit of engagement so if you’re off just a bit either way, it shouldn’t adversely affect it, and the ball detent will still hold it to the selected gear.

I will try to get the count on it for you next time I am in there.
Hope to get the rest of the parts today and see how it goes together this weekend. Will need to still get the seal counterbore completed as well.
 

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Sounds good. By the way, I saw a transmission from an F911 on feebay and it has the range selector shaft controlled from the left side, with linkage that loops around the back of the case and over to the passenger side again. Same transmission, but the shaft sticks out the left instead of the right
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yep those F series front mowers had a version of the Peerless 2600. 2600-004 I believe. I thought about getting one of them instead of the 300 series case like I bought. It’s the diff lock shaft (not hi-lo, I dont think they were 2 speeds) that exits the case on the LH side. See, I’ve converted my 332 to a “rocker pedal” setup for forward/reverse and it’s on the RH side. And my new diff lock shaft will be on the RH side. So I won’t be able to give it go pedal and hold the diff lock with my right foot at the same time...so that LH F Series case would have been handy to put the diff lock lever on the LH side like a newer tractor, but I didn’t need the F’s gearing, and didn’t want to spend the extra money. I’m probably going to have a solenoid-actuated diff lock. I don’t know how else I could do it, honestly.w
 

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Interesting - does the rocker pedal have some friction so that those of us with wobbly feet don't get jerky operating them? Any pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First, the gear at the base of the second shaft does indeed have 13 teeth. 👍🏼

OK, so I drilled and threaded the hole for the detent ball. I got pretty close but could have had it a bit closer to the LH side, The gear is biased just a lil to the right when it’s in “HI” but not enough to press on the tabbed thrust washer of the shifter shaft. The cover fits as normal and it shifts by hand with the cover in place. It’s nice to feel the detent engage and hold the selection.

Not much to look at haha


Holding Neutral

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Holding Hi
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The rocker pedal is pretty simple but makes the ol 300 series more refined. I have a kwikway loader and you needed a third hand to run it, steer, and the use hand hydro before I made the switch to pedal power.

It was jerky at first but I’d liken it to driving a manual transmission car the first few times. You figure it out pretty fast. I can still get twisty with it but I am used to it now. It’s not as fancy as a modern machine with separate Forward and Reverse pedals but it is just as effective and much easier to build. None of the hand hydro linkage is functional. There’s a bushing welded into the frame on the RH side and the shaft for the rocker pedal passes thru it. The shaft has a lever that connects to the linkage arm that goes to the hydrostatic control. I even put a grease zerk on it haha! It’s been raining this week but when I mow next time I will try to get a couple pics. My pedal is pretty generic looking and literally just a tracing of a shoe that I plasma cut. I want to make the pedal a bit more visually appealing like this guys (old Pic from a member with a 400):

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