I believe they are the same as the 300 series now too, and you just push out the hole for the diff lock. If on a 300 you dont press that out and it stays there.
How are the quality of those ebay ones? Have enough wrapped up in a paint job to not want to stick something of lesser quality to save a few bucks at this time. However, if some can attest these are equal or even better than oem I may be game.
The one set I bought on ebay-won't do again. Maybe these are better but they were thinner, glue wasn't as good and the grip sand was MUCH smaller. I had one of the original treads almost off-so I pulled it off and replaced only one. You can tell which one it is that I replaced since only 1/2 is still there in one piece. When sand blasting my powder coated pan off a 420-I didn't blast off or peel off the treads. And painting-I taped up.
One suggestion, if you're going to cut bulk material to shape, is to cut patterns out of shirt cardboard. You can use the pattern to outline the cuts on the tread material, and flip it over to make both sides symmetrical.
mike, that is sorta like what I did w/my freshly painted 400 fender/seat pan assembly.
...well......exactly what I did.
But, I work for the state government and so here at work I would be required to;
1 tape off the area
2 lightly sand said area
3 order one quart can Herculiner from NAPA
4 paint it
5 paint it w/second coat
6 allow to dry overnight
7 remove tape from effected area
Thing I don't like about the original...
My boots must rest on the outside edge of the pan and rub the paint off. Was thinking if the grip tape was thicker than the indentation, that could be prevented.
A forum community dedicated to Vintage John Deere Tractors owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about classic restorations, references, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!