I'm going to reopen this topic, as I've spent some time dealing with problems with the lift linkage pawl on my LT133. LT155 and LT166 use the same setup/parts, etc., so my comments apply to all three.
Currently, I have the big mower retraction spring disconnected so that I can R&R the drive belt. This frees things up so that I can work and observe the pawl operation slowly. For access, I have the left plastic panel removed (one Phillips screw and one M6 bolt).
My first observation was that the bottom of the pawl was rubbing on the steel stop block, below the pivot point on the lift lever arm. This interference prevented the control rod from rotating the pawl. Nothing was bent, and it looks as though the tractor was made that way.
Solution: Remove the lift lever from the tractor so that I could get at the bottom of the pawl and file some metal off to give some clearance.
TM1695, the Technical Manual for these three tractors, gives no R&R procedures for the lift linkage. The isometric drawings for both the 1998 older version (which is my tractor) and the 1999-up newer version do show where things are connected. The lift lever arm is close to the fender deck, which is not removable on these tractors. Now that I've done it, I can give the steps for the R&R. References are to the find numbers on the drawings on page 10-5 of TM1695.
1. Unhook the lift assist spring (find #10). This is a big spring with a lot of tension, so it will pop off with a bang, and you'll need a good lever tool to reinstall it. I have Bendix brake (automotive shoe brake) tools that handle the R&R.
2. Remove the pawl latch block (not shown on the drawings) mounted to the tractor frame. One 13mm nut on a carriage bolt. Required to give clearance for the lift arm lower lever.
3. Remove the battery.
4. Remove both the right and left plastic side panels. One large Phillips screw, and one M6 (10mm head) bolt. There are access holes in the frame for use of a socket and extension to get to the bolts.
5. Remove the E-ring (no find number) connecting the lower lift arm lever to the lift strap (find #6) and slide the lift strap off the pin and out of the way.
6. Remove the circlip on the right end of the lift arm rod.
7. Slide the lift arm to the left, and slide the bushing (no find no.) out of the left side frame.
8. Turn the lift handle toward the rear of the tractor, which will turn the lower lift arm above the fender deck rail. Slide the whole thing out of the tractor.
From there, disassembly is obvious. To get the push rod out of the lift lever, take off the lift handle (find #2, one hex setscrew). Unscrew the release button (find #1). Underneath is a spring and a flat washer---take them out.
Inspection of the pawl showed where it had been rubbing on the block, and there was peened-over material on the sides of the pawl. I filed about .005 off the pawl edge where it had been interfering, and did a test reassembly, which included reattaching the block on the frame. The pawl was now free to turn at all points in the arm motion, but would not lift high enough to clear at the front. I needed to bend the end of the actuating rod to get it centered in the lift arm with the pawl lifted to clear the block. While the rod didn't look bent out of shape, it probably was, after years of pounding on the button trying to get the pawl to clear the block.
On final assembly, you'll want to adjust the release button by screwing it in/out as needed to assure good clearance on release, and good latching against the stop. There isn't a fixed position for this.
I'd estimate the R&R time at 1 hour. Looks and sounds complicated, but it isn't.
With everything apart, and properly washed, I lubricated the bushing face and shaft with Lubriplate 630-AA grease. Wipe off any excess to prevent dirt buildup. For running maintenance, I'd suggest a few drops of motor oil on all the rotating joints, annually.
Hank
