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420 Won't Start

4839 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  hankvc
I can jump the solenoid with a wrench and the tractor will start with the key turned on. No issues, I can mow the whole yard but once I turn off the key switch I've got to jump the solenoid again to start it.

I had issues mid winter when the brain box terminals were corroded, those got cleaned and dialectic greased. At which time I did all the plugs on the wiring harness.

I've replaced the solenoid, key switch, fuse block. It just won't send juice to the solenoid when I turn over the key switch. Is it a safety switch?
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Chuck, I don't know how to tell if I have the replay kit, any ideas how to tell?

Tractor is an early 1983 model. I'll check, but I'm guessing it doesn't have the brake switch.

I'm currently using both front and read PTO switches.

I'll go check for voltage at the S terminal and let you know.

Chuck, I tested the voltage at the key switch and toasted the fuse at F1 (20amp). I haven't been to the local gas station for new fuse yet.

However before it blew I was getting .51 volts at the key switch on the purple wire. So I backed up to the neutral switch and it also had .51 v. Then I checked the pink wire on the key switch and it had 12.43 volts. Is it possible that my issue is yet again in the TCM (brain box)?

When I replaced the key switch, John Deere asked me if it was the early series or the later. Is it possible to have gotten the wrong switch?

Hank, Just to make sure I'm reading the same diagram correctly, doesn't the X23 TDC module follow right after the F1 20amp fuse? So the TDC is part of the equation?

I've got 12.43 volts at the 25amp circuit breaker and also on the red wire to the key switch. I'm following 12.43 volts into the TDC on the pink wire out of the key switch, just like the above diagram depicts, then .51 volts comes out of the TDC on the Purple wire. PTO's are off... I'm getting .51 volts on both sides of the PTO switches (front & rear). The transmission neutral switch has .51 volts. I have no brake switch. At X1 (key switch) I have .51 volts. When I hit the key to start the engine I get .51 volts at the solenoid, which isn't enough volts to charge the solenoid for it to make contact to start the engine.

Yes, you are correct, the solenoid and fuse block (25amp circuit breaker) are on the pedestal below the battery on the right (passenger side while sitting in the seat). I've been jumping the current from the battery terminal to the starter terminal with a wrench at the solenoid.

and Yes, you are correct that I have been bypassing all the safety features. That's why I'm here trying to figure out how to resolve this issue. I'm not doing it this way because I'm not trying to be safe, just to get the yard mowed.

I'm doing everything I can think of to resolve the issue and keep the safety features in tact. I could easily make a jumper wire from the key switch to the solenoid or a toggle switch from the battery to the solenoid and forget about this issue all together. But I'm not. Don't take it as I'm trying to bypass the safety features, please.
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Thanks guys for sticking in there with me. It just fluffs my feathers when someone on here picks a fight over bypassing the safety features. Something I'm inadvertently doing to manage while I've got an issue.

I'll pull the battery tray out and dive in a little deeper. I almost broke down at JD last week and bought a wiring harness.
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