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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 425 with a leaky steering cylinder. I was wondering what others have done to remedy this. Looking around seems to be a superceded part number from Deere AM147174 for about $360, eBay has new aftermarket cylinder, or hydraulic shop rebuild of my existing cylinder. Would like to know if you guys have experience with any of these options. Thanks!
 

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I have no experience with this specific part, but for other items I’ve had good luck with both aftermarket replacements and local shops. If you have a hydraulic repair shop nearby, why not take the cylinder to them for an estimate? You can always pass if the price is too high. They also might know where you could get a new one for less than the full Deere price.
 

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Some hydraulic shops won't work with welded cylinders...and some will! Find a local shop that will or grind the weld off yourself and bring them the parts and request new seals & o-rings. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok ,thanks. I will try to locate a hydraulic shop. Also has anyone here used the AM147174 cylinder from Deere? Just wondering if it is a direct replacement for the original number or if something is different about it? (Different mounting, adapters required for hoses, etc). Thanks again for the info
 

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Hi, This is Mark.

This kit does not include O-Rings used internally in the hydrostat, steering control valve, selective control valve, and etc. This kit does include all O-Rings used on lines, hoses, fittings, external selective control valve, external steering control valve, and etc.
No one asked, and please stop posting redundant and/or unasked for information. You’re posting to a number of hobbyists who found parts sources whose reputations and quality earned their business, not someone posting stuff on a forum as a blatant salesman.
Have a good day everyone.
 

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I Have had a local machine shop put the cylinder in a lathe and cut the weld off and then i put in needed parts and he tacked weldedthe end on when in the lathe.took it out and welded it up and keeping the cylinder cool. I have had two done this way
Good Luck

Rod in MN
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, that is a good idea. I haven't had great success with a hydraulic shop. I got an estimate from one for $225-$250. Seemed fairly knowledgeable, but at that price I would likely just buy the new aftermarket instead (would at least have some sort of warranty). But, I do know a fairly good machinist, so I may check with him about opening it up for me after mowing season.
 

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JD, One item critical is which end you machine. You'll want the piston end machined and not the rod end. When reassembled for final weld, the rod is fully extended and this keeps the heat from welding away from your brand new seals & o-ring. Welding the rod end would destroy the rod o-ring. Bob
 
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