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430 Hydro Linkage

905 Views 13 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  SuperSherman44
I've got the side panel off my 430 while changing driveshaft and there is a small amount of slack in the hydro linkage. I have a new bolt in it, so all the slack would be coming from the rod and the body that the bolt goes through. Number 12 and number 17. They aren't worn enough to see. The best I can tell with caliper, the slack adds up to around 0.05 inches. Is that enough that I should be worried about and try to add some press in bushings or something?
Also the pin on the shock absorber, #9 and the hole it goes into has wear. I know that's not an issue, but it would be nice to not have the slack in the resistance too. Would I be wasting my time to wrap the bolt in some aluminum tape?

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Anything you can do to make a tight connection is good. Does the slack cause creep? If it creeps you need to check all linkage connection points for a tight fit...trying to adjust the creep out with the turnbuckle, etc., is futile unless you do that first.
The creep is very minimal. Sometimes I have to tap it one way or the other to stop it from creeping.
ideal,
Are you sure you have the nos. right in the illustration, text, first post?

"small amount of slack"
"The creep is very minimal....tap it one way or the other to stop it...."

Kinda normal.
Correcting creep issues can/may be a real pain - even after replacing parts. [Been there, done that.]
Good luck to you with what all you decide to do.
Yeah, numbers are right. The creep really isn't bad, just while I had everything apart I was looking at it.
Removing even a slight amount of linkage slop makes a big difference...learned this right here on the forum with my 322 and 430. It can be a pain due to access but it's worth it.
Yeah, replacing any well worn parts found is no doubt a good idea, - dunno about using aluminum tape..........
The other items you should check are 23 and 24. The spacer 25 is hardened. Part 21b could be wallowed out also. Part 23, the hole for the roll pin should be checked also. Part 17 is probably worn also.
Some of those parts can be rather pricey.
I've got 23 and 24 in good shape. 21b is good. Looks like someone at one point has put a brass bushing in it. 17 does have some wear, but I don't see a new one for a reasonable price. I guess I could weld it up and re-drill it.
Add up all that little bit of wear in all those linkages...thats the problem. Drill it out for a bushing or larger bolt, or fill with weld and redrill.
I fixed my one tractor before by drilling a 2nd hole in part 17. At that time, jd wanted over a 100 $ for that part. I had to go buy the proper drill bit size, which was 6mm. Then used the turn buckle to lengthen.
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I fixed my one tractor before by drilling a 2nd hole in part 17. At that time, jd wanted over a 100 $ for that part. I had to go buy the proper drill bit size, which was 6mm. Then used the turn buckle to lengthen.
View attachment 284908
This is also what I did with mine, thanks to Skwirls info. It’s still good, over a year later👍
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I ended up driller a new hole behind the original. Very tight now. Lot to put back together now :)
Let us know how it works when you reassemble it all!
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