I've turbocharged my 430 using the stock manifold and muffler. I did not turn up the pump, which means that the tractor does not produce any more horsepower than it did naturally aspirated (output is proportional to fuel burnt), because I don't need more horsepower. It will flatten the torque curve some though which I definitely will benefit from. I briefly ran my 48" tiller at the WNY plow day and it clearly lugged better. I'm looking forward to some heavy snow to try out the 47 with, as last year the heavy snow made the 430 lug a lot so I'm keen to see what it performs like with a flatter curve. I'll see if I have some photos around here to post.
Lee, apologies, forgot to answer the question directly. To make more horsepower, you need to burn more fuel for a given rpm. To burn any amount of fuel, you need the requisite amount of air. So, if you want more horsepower, either increase the rpm, increase the fuel rate (and make sure you supply sufficient air to burn it with), and then realise that you're going to reach a point of diminishing returns. Generally, the limits on a given engine to make power are related to constraints on getting fuel and air into it, and having the rotating mass stay intact at higher outputs and rpms.
I understand a couple of folks have turned up their pumps - I'm not sure if anyone has before-and-after dyno charts to see the difference - but they might be able to give anecdotal accounts of any increase in power.
Neil, that is great information I would be curious to see your pictures I wrench on the big green tractors some and would really like to put a turbo on my 430. I was wondering what turbo you used this is great information. I will only be using my 430 for snow removal and the occasional plowday that's why I want to play with this little Yanmar some.
I installed an IHI RHF3-AS14 turbocharger. This model and trim was originally fitted to a 400-series Perkins diesel. I bought it off Theftbay from someone that didn't know or didn't want to share its original use. In any case, once I figured out what it was, I checked the spec and deemed it suitable for my engine. My goal was to fit it with as much originality as possible: no mods to the hood or sidepanels, using the original manifold and muffler, so that outwardly, it would appear stock. The items that I fabricated were:
- a stainless exhaust pipe from the stock manifold to a 1/4 flange mounted to where the front lifting eye was bolted originally
- the turbo is mounted to that flange and is the primary mounting point
- a stainless exhaust pipe from the turbo outlet down to the original muffler inlet
- a piece of 3/4 mild steel on the sump for the turbo oil drain. My original sump had split around the flange so I bought a new one on the basis that I'd probably warp the old one trying to fix it, but then I'd also have a backup in case the mods to the new one didn't work out
- a new 1/8 pipe thread tee and some pipe work from the original oil pressure sender hole. Mounted the sender on one side of the tee, and a flexible hydraulic line to the turbo oil inlet
- some off-the-shelf silicon intake tubing from the original air cleaner to the turbo, and some more from the turbo to the intake manifold
I have a picture here which will give you some idea of the mounting. Couldn't find shots of the detail so I'll have to take some more. I combined this work with having the front off the tractor to renew the pto bearings and whatnot. I'm very happy with it - you can't tell it's there with the hood closed, and it almost looks original with it open. The intake and exhaust noise is a little quieter and it naturally gives off a little turbo whine noise as it lugs down the torque curve (but nothing excessive). I have a 543 front pto unit (540 rpm) that I want to hook a generator to. Once I've done that, I'll really be able to load the engine up and see what it can do.
The picture shows the installation before I completed the intake piping, but I had given it a run by then. Interestingly, the intake noise was amplified when I connected the air cleaner back up.
I'll get some more shots on the weekend so you can see the detail. If I did it again, I'd do the fabrication myself. I almost bought a Hobart mig but didn't figuring that it'd only a hundred or two for the fabrication. The guy I used turned out to be less than fully experienced in this type of work so he burned a lot more hours than really was warranted. I actually used to work in a custom muffler shop so I cursed myself for the poor decision. For less than I paid for the work, I could have had a brand new welder, and all my fabrication done (in less time) for 75% of what I paid for the engineering shop. Oh well, live and learn (I still want to buy the welder...). That piece from the manifold to the turbo exhaust inlet is probably the ugliest piece on the package. But, it does the job and it doesn't leak so I'm not likely to update it anytime soon. The manifold end is 1 1/4 and I reduced it down to either 1 or 3/4 (can't remember which) for the turbo exhaust inlet. That actually has the effect of somewhat making up for the loss of BTUs over that short run of pipe by increasing the gas velocity a tad, but it doesn't have the expansion capacity it would if the turbo was somehow mounted right on to the end of the manifold. If one was to find an off-the-shelf turbo and flange that accommodated an end-on inlet, you could possibly fit it right up. In any case, I'm just going to pick up some exhaust insulation wrap and that'll take care of 90% of the heat loss. You can see the oil feed pipe that attaches with an M10-1.25 banjo I got from Jegs, and the flexible pipe is just 9" with AN-4 fittings on each end. The oil feed just required fiddling to get the right length of 1/8 NPT fittings and tube to clear the various housings etc. I got high temp clear flexible tube for the oil outlet from a regular auto shop and it's held up no problems so far, and I can check that I have good drainage from the turbo. I could have gone a size or two smaller on the outlet without risking backup, which also would have made fitting the sump pipe less critical. One correction from the last post: the flexible tube from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet was mostly a radiator hose that I selected off the shelf from the auto shop. I looked for the right diameter with a shape that approximated what I wanted, so as to avoid numerous individual straights and bends and joiners - made life a lot simpler. That tube from the turbo outlet to the intake manifold could probably be replaced by something OEM. The turbo exhaust outlet clears the radiator shroud by about 1/4" and that's plenty. There's no evidence of heat stress on the green side panel so I think I'm in good shape there. Tractor starts and runs like a top. Darrin checked it out at the WNY plow day and published a couple of shots of it working with the tiller - if the field hadn't been so rocky, I would have really laid into it and really had the engine working. I need to find another field that is straight loam/clay and give it a real workout (for a couple of hours straight - get that exhaust temp up for an extended period). There are a couple of farms close by in Pittsford that I want to talk into letting me plow/till next spring - fingers crossed...
the air cleaner is in the regular position. What you're seeing is that at the time of the photo, it wasn't yet reinstalled and the pipework from it wasn't complete. There's a stub on the inlet to the impeller housing.
Cory, check the trim spec between the two - that'll tell you if they're the same as far as flow characteristics go i.e. where they sit on the map. They can still vary in terms of extra flange pieces etc go for the specific OEM application. That said, you don't *have* to hit a specific spec if you don't feel the need. For example, mine is low and left on the map in my application but I'm ok with that - this was more of a hobby exercise as opposed to "needing" to meet a specific spec (my wife and I don't seem to agree often on the difference between "need" and "want" as far as lawn mowers go : )
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