Anyone have tips/instructions for removing the radiator and/or fan shroud on the 430? I've got the TM1591 manual, but isn't much help. Assume I need a CTM12 manual for this. I've got everything disconnected, but gettin' hung up with the frame in front and the fan in back ... must be a sequence and/or order to successfully remove ... help? Thanks, Bryan.
430 Radiator
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I didn't do a manual but it was a bear to remove/install. Watch the supports on the front side so they don't punch through the radiator. Remove the drain petcock completely as well. Tip forward with everything else removed and very carefully pull out. I had a few bent fins on the radiator but didn't puncture anything. Good luck. Sometimes JD likes to make it so you just need to know the trick to removal. If you ever have removed the diff gear from a JD G tractor you would understand as well as it is a special twist/turn, stand on your head and touch your noise and then it comes right out. Without knowing the trick-it seems impossible.
Travis ... thanks. Got it out. I'd cut the short hoses on the lower back of the radiator, but kinda in the middle and they were getting hung up on the fan shroud. I got one off after cutting ... the other I had to cut back closer to the radiator. This is a parts tractor (was missing various engine parts already) and I didn't expect to sell those hose pieces. How would you get those on/off in one piece anyway? I unscrewed the valve on the drain and managed to wedge up & out. The frame is notched out for the drain valve to lift up past ... is it supposed to be? Mine doesn't look like a clean cut/half circle. I've got my own 430, but haven't had need to really get into yet. What if you have to replace PTO clutch, or just adjust the air gap ... does all this need to come out just to get to? Thanks, Bryan.
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What year is your 430? There is two different PTO tensioners so different parts- different things to get in the way. My fathers is an 84 that I fixed up and mechanically restored. It already had a paint job but the rest other then the engine was basically junk including the numerous frame cracks and missing frame pieces. I used angle iron on the rear diff mounts on the frame as the OEM ones were cut off and different ones welded on which were thinner and also broke. Now you couldn't tell there was an issue and it will be the tilling and 51 broom sweeping tractor as well as a for fun plowing tractor.
So to answer the questions-all of the stuff you asked I did as I assembled so I don't know how adjusting the air gap would be with everything together. I know on a rear PTO I almost would rather it be on the bench to adjust vs in the tractor. I would think adjusting the air gap can be done in the tractor but replacing likely need to remove the radiator??? And the hoses I think I cut out as well.
I did find some replacement hoses on the first year 430 through carquest that worked where through JD you couldn't buy anymore. Not exact matches but they worked fine.
So to answer the questions-all of the stuff you asked I did as I assembled so I don't know how adjusting the air gap would be with everything together. I know on a rear PTO I almost would rather it be on the bench to adjust vs in the tractor. I would think adjusting the air gap can be done in the tractor but replacing likely need to remove the radiator??? And the hoses I think I cut out as well.
I did find some replacement hoses on the first year 430 through carquest that worked where through JD you couldn't buy anymore. Not exact matches but they worked fine.
It's an '85 ... I think it's the newer tensioner (the "V"-shaped design ... isn't the one that mounts/tensions directly from the side the older model?) ... don't have any problems at the moment, just speculating what a 'bear' it'd be to have to remove all this just to do something like that! I assume you installed your radiator and then the 2 small hoses afterward? Would be easier to put on than taking off ... I need to give mine a good going over ... want to check the frame like you mentioned. I replaced the bolt on the front and the bushing on the back of the hydrostatic turnbuckle/adjustment rod, but still have slow response issues there ... and terrible "slop" in the left/right steering ... just need to find the time! Thanks, Bryan.
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I installed the hoses afterward yes. I had a length of hose I trimmed to fit after install. The hydro control needs to be tight so don't be afraid to replace a few parts to make it so. Bolt on the hydro for my 332 was paper thin with nothing else left. Much better after getting things tight. Spend the extra time to get the creep out once replaced as well.
Frame cracks-can happen where the rear axle attaches to the frame, where the front diff brace attaches, where the top brace under the pedistal, welded mount to frame for the steer cyl. All but the front diff brace were cracked on my fathers frame. I also replaced the terrible front bumper from a doner 420 frame.
Slop in steering-depending on what it is. Welded new balls onto my fathers 430 steer cyl. Teardrop style can be had by cutting a top link 3 point. The rounder style can be bought through any 3 point maker. You can also rotate the balls 90 degrees to tighten things up. I put a grease zerk on the back as well. Tie rods, bushings for axles as well as the bearings for the wheels. If the center pivot is worn it also can be replaced but isn't cheap. I drilled and tapped a grease zerk through the axle and into the pivot to also do the PTO shaft. Lastly-there is slide plates that cab be installed for the two big bolts on the front axle if the frame is worn. Older models (don't know the year) you have to drill the holes. Newer-has the holes. My 87 332's had the holes. Do this and it will be pretty tight.
Frame cracks-can happen where the rear axle attaches to the frame, where the front diff brace attaches, where the top brace under the pedistal, welded mount to frame for the steer cyl. All but the front diff brace were cracked on my fathers frame. I also replaced the terrible front bumper from a doner 420 frame.
Slop in steering-depending on what it is. Welded new balls onto my fathers 430 steer cyl. Teardrop style can be had by cutting a top link 3 point. The rounder style can be bought through any 3 point maker. You can also rotate the balls 90 degrees to tighten things up. I put a grease zerk on the back as well. Tie rods, bushings for axles as well as the bearings for the wheels. If the center pivot is worn it also can be replaced but isn't cheap. I drilled and tapped a grease zerk through the axle and into the pivot to also do the PTO shaft. Lastly-there is slide plates that cab be installed for the two big bolts on the front axle if the frame is worn. Older models (don't know the year) you have to drill the holes. Newer-has the holes. My 87 332's had the holes. Do this and it will be pretty tight.
Travis ... thanks. I'll give all those areas a look if I can get into this spring/summer. I know we're not to place "What's it worth?" posts, but how can I find out what a radiator & fan last sold for when available from JD? Thanks, Bryan.
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Is your radiator bad? Recore at a radiator shop if so. Fans aren't hard to come by and are around $45 I think for the 430 style which fits the 332/330/322 but reverses flow of air and can help heat cabs. FYI-the 332/322/330 radiator from JD was $450 last I checked and it doesn't have the built in oil cooler to it like the 430.
The radiator & fan are from a parts tractor and I wanted to be fair to a buyer and myself with regards to price, but couldn't find any information. How would I test the radiator? I bought this with missing engine parts and don't expect to get it running. I have my own 430 that I'd like to clean up & inspect like you suggested. Thanks, Bryan.
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