[spike]

I have a 78' 316 with a 48D deck. My spindles and starting to get noisy and there is a rust hole in the top front of the deck. How expensive are these decks to restore or would I be better off to start shopping for a refurbished deck. What are my options for a deck that will fit my tractor.

 

[dc_snider]

Mike,

Recently I rebuilt the H048G Rotary Mower on my 140. I replaced all six bearings, nine hub bolts and the bushings and bolts associated with the idler, and a few other odds and ends. My tally for the parts order at my dealer was around $122.00 give or take. It was money well spent. Over last winter I had already replaced the wheels, bought new blades and repainted and redecaled it. All in all I've probably got $200.00 in the "refurbished" deck. Good Luck with yours. You'll find a wealth of information here in the archives on dealing with the removal of the bearings, pulleys, and so forth.

 

[Tcn]

Mike
I refurbished my 317 deck. Same issues of bearing, a rust hole or two and thinning due to rust near the spindles. I needed to a some stiffing plates around the spindles. Check out the past posts on the subject if you need them. The are listed as parts for a 50" but work on most of the decks. I broke the idler thinking I could get the bearing out so needed that also. With paint and part around $120. Deck is really quiet and works well.

Tom

 

[tim_semenuk]

Mike, Check out this thread for photos on patching a deck.
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/76813.html?1124855550
New decks can cost upwards of $1000, in Canada anyways. I have also refurbished a 38" deck with bearings for two spindles, drive sheave bearing and a new idler. Now I can hear the engine running. I learned how to weld on this one. It's not pretty, but it's lasting.

 

[spike]

Thanks for the information. The cost of refurbishing this deck is cheaper that I had imagined. It looks like I will be heading to my local dealer on my next day off. I hadn't really though about stripping and repainting my deck but what the heck. I recently picked up a single cylinder 54 blade for $150 and I might just go ahead and paint it at the same time.

 

[Jds549]

Mine is costing $200 plus paint, but it will be good for many years.............. be careful on the welding repairs, do a small spot and move to another problem and later come back. helps prevent warpage.

 

[dave24319]

i did my 48in deck on my 318 this spring--parts cost was around 120--130--made all the difference in the world!! money well spent for sure!!

 

[Jds549]

Raise my cost. I had to buy two more pulleys
(I thought they were ok) and I bought an add-on
wheel kit. another $85 I will be able to trade labor for the sandblasting and painting.
By the way the torque is VERY IMPORTANT on the top mandrel nut.

 

[Emsgracesdad]

I am the proud owner of a 76' 300 with a 48 mower. Lots of rust but it still seems solid. I am just starting the tear down. What should I know about the top mandrel nut (do you mean spindle)?

 

[chad_s]

Hi all. I have a early s/n 445. I got on it the other day started backed out of barn and turned it off. Went to start it again and nothing. The dash lights were very dim and the fuel pump ran slow. I put the battery charger on it and it said the batt was ok. I left the charger hooked up and on and tried to start it. All I could get was the solenoid clicking, no starter turn. The pc board has the green light on. I double checked the saftey switches, all good. I get batt voltage at the solenoid but when I turn the key to start the voltage drops very low. The solenoid will not always click, sometimes I have to leave the charger on for a while. I'm starting to go in circles with the t/s so I thought I'd get another opinion. Do I have a starter that just went bad or a battery that just went bad or Am I missing something. I did go through the t/s flow chart in the manual and what I tested seemed fine. Any and all help/opions are greatly appriciated. Thanks

Chad

 

[woodpecker41]

Take all the wires and cable ends loose one at a time and then clean them and put them back on. Eventually you will get to the dirty bad one and it will work right again. Rust/corrosion is you enemy here. If that doesn't work it is either the ignition switch or the battery no matter what your charger says. Roger

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Chad -
I'm with Roger ; and I would start at the battery cables first , as it could just be a bad / corroded connection there .

Dave

 

[chad_s]

Just an update. I pulled the battery conections of and cleaned very good. Still no fix. Due to only having a few minutes to look at it I decided to jump it with the truck. The thing started right up. Must be a bad battery or one of the ends is corroded under the crimp. Guess I will get a battery ant two ends.

 

[funnydirt14]

Had a bad battery in my L130 that showed fully charged on the battery charger. Took it to Autozone and got it tested. It was bad. Got new battery, installed and it fired right off. My guess is just the battery.

 

[chad_s]

Sorry it's been a while. The new battery fixed my problem. On a side note, can the relays on the board for ignition, etc be replaced? In my t/s I saw one(i forget which one) had a crack in the relay case. I dont have a problem with performing the job, just wandering if the relay was available as a single item from some where. Thanks for the help

 

[woodpecker41]

Knowing JD you probably have to buy the board but you could find out by going to www.jdparts.com, joining and then looking to see if the part is available. Roger

 

[chad_s]

kinda what I thought to Roger. When I get a chance I'm going to try and get a p/n off it and look online. It's a NEC relay so you would think someone out there sells just the relay. I think they are used in numerous applications.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

You could always just smear a little rtv silicone on the crack and forget about it , if it is other-wise just a cosmetic issue .

Dave

 

[chad_s]

Dave, thats what I plan to do but if I did not have bad luck I'd have none at all. Just figured out the p/n. They are $3 online. Gona order two just to have on hand. My luck it will go at the worst time. I was going to install some harness tape with a sealer applied on top(stuff we use in aviation). If anyone is interested it looks like all three relays are the same p/n. The number is MR301-9HSL. It's a NEC relay. Should not be too big of a deal to remove and solder on a new on.