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49 Blower Drive Gears

1027 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  monkey_business
While snowblowing yesterday I heard an impressive "BANG" and no more snow out the chute. The shear bolt on the end flanges of the auger was gone so as I replaced it still nothing happened. Pulled the cover off the gear box to find a shatter gear in pieces (PTO side) and the driven gear is missing a few teeth.

My question.....any hints or helpful info before I head off to the dealer tomorrow? Anyone have one of these things go like this just from wear and tear? Sounds like it swallowed a huge chunk of clear ice or a rock.

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Hi there, I've never had this happen but have had this gear box apart many times. The snap ring at the end of one of the gears kept coming off (PTO side). I had noticed the gears a bit worn, but they were still able to contact each other.

Anyway, not sure of what advice you're looking for, other than if you're going to a dealer, to stop off at the bank first.
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I should also mention, while it's apart, be sure to inspect the bearings and seals. They are not *that* pricey, and you may want to replace them anyway.

Hey ya'll...just want to say thanx for your help. A member has emailed me in response to a "wanted to buy". He has the gear box/set from a recently junked 49 blower.

Wow....170clams for new gears. How do you spell relief?! "w-e-e-k-e-n-d f-r-e-e-d-o-m m-a-c-h-i-n-e-s"!!!
Hi, I'm hoping someone can help. I got a 112L from a neighbor in April who was getting a new tractor. A little tinkering of the Kawasaki FB460V and it ran like a top but always after lengthy cranking (I've read that these motors are finicky). However, it's always been a hard start, i.e. lots of cranking and fiddling with choke. It sat for 3 days in the heat and humidity, but kept dry...now it won't turn over. So far, I've checked for spark (blue with a trace hint of orange), compression is good, removed and cleaned carb, jets cleaned etc. added fresh fuel. I've got clean gas through the carb. wiring to seat and PTO checked and appears good. I've tried cranking it w/ and w/o air filter (which was cleaned and replaced also), the darn thing still won't turn over. All it does is crank and pops a puff or two (w/ air cleaner off) like it wants to kick in. I added a little gas to carb intake and got a flame but still won't turn over. I'm stumped. I should add too that I've checked all seat, PTO and wire connections. Would hate to have to tear into it if I don't have to. I'm hoping somebody here has experience with these Kawasakis. I'm a 300 series kinda guy and I've never had my K321's give me such a hard time. Thanks in advance guys for any help!
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By turn over do you mean it will not start or do you mean the starter doesn't spin the engine over? That is a confusing term to use. If it is not starting and you have spark most likely you will need to replace the carburetor. They can be non fixable. I finally did that on my 345 and it now works great. The 2 holes in the choke are normal or it would flood the engine. The other simple thing to try is to to set the valve clearance. Roger
Steve, you cannot choke a Kaw motor too much. Bet your choke is not closing in enough. Just an idea. Fred
Fred, thanks, I've heard that about the Kawi is very finicky with the choke. I've even read somewhere that some guys have put small screws in the throttle plate holes to close them! LOL I can't imagine ever doing something that drastic, all I see is trouble going down THAT road. I should add that for the last 2-3 weeks, it's been a soupy mix of hot, humid and wet weather here in Ma. temps in the 80-90's. Roger, by turn over I mean it will not start. sorry for confusion. Can valve clearances go out of whack like that? I suppose it could have been a gradual thing. Like I said in my original post, ever since I got the tractor it's been tough to start i.e. multiple cranks needed to fire it up. two questions Roger, how does the carb become 'non fixable' given that it can be cleaned (theoretically) and all the essential parts replaced and are there any tricks I should know to check/adjust the valve lash? Thanks
Steve, I'm reading your description as "cranks, but does not fire."

Question number one: have you replaced the spark plug? And what did the tip of the old one look like? Should be tan; if it is coal black, it's gas-fouled. Snow white on a used plug means "lean/hot running". Put a fresh plug in the cylinder No matter what the old one looks like and go from there. Check the gap on the new plug first.

As to the carburetor, not all of the critical parts (starting with the float needle seat) are available for service. Yes, you can get a gasket set and a "rebuild kit," which may or may not be adequate to leave you with a functioning carburetor after a thorough cleaning. Yes, check that the choke plate closes completely on "full choke." Also, pull the float bowl off and see that it is clean.

If the engine won't start by priming it with gas into the carburetor intake, the problem is ignition, assuming you've got compression and nothing broken inside.

A small engine pro confronted with symptoms such as you describe will begin by replacing the plug and reading the old one. Follow with a new fuel filter and a check for fuel flow. They may pull a carburetor bowl off and check that the float level is "level," that the needle is actually closing off fuel flow, but beyond that, it's a new carburetor.

If in doubt as to whether you've flooded the engine with gas, pull the plug. If it's wet, blow it dry and crank the engine 8-10 revolutions with the plug out to clear the cylinder.

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Hank, thanks for the advice. I failed to mention that I already replaced the plug with a new one (gapped of course) the other day. The old one wasn't half bad but in your vain of thinking, I figured I'd start small and it wouldn't hurt to put a new one in. Today, I double checked all connections, got compression, got spark and got (fresh) fuel to the carb, (which was pulled and cleaned as mentioned in previous post). STILL , the same thing... crank crank crank, almost wants to start but won't. I went to a few Kawasaki threads on the web and many similar issues with the FB460V as mine. Many folks said they resolved the issue after they adjusted the valve lash or found a sheared flywheel key. So, having exhausted all the other suggestions, I looked up Kawasaki specs for valve lash and found some not so good videos of a bench repair on that engine. anyhow, I took the carb and air cleaner assembly off, to access what I thought was the valve cover behind. took that panel off but didn't see any adjustment points, just the springs and tappets. I'm embarrassed to say that I scratched my head, put the cover back on and wondered out loud if I was looking in the right place! I've adjusted the valves on my 314's K321 and several Honda push mowers. All of them looked similar to what I saw today but for the fact that they had adjustment screws! I feel like a newbie with this engine... fumbling around trying to find a fix. As for the sheared flywheel key. I never got around to taking off the shrouds to check, I was so disgusted and depressed. I jumped in the pool and drank a beer. It's important for you guys to know that this tractor ran beautifully just last week. EXCEPT, i noticed right away when my friend gave it to me, that it has always taken extended cranking to start it. I never paid mind to it since the tractor was free and my 314 is my year round tractor. But now that she's waiting for rear tires, and my grass is growing taller as we speak. I'm almost ready to go to a box store and buy something in an orange or yellow...lol
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I love the 112L. Only made in 1985.
If you are getting spark okay (If you are young, stick your finger in the spark plug wire and crank it over. If you are not so young, go to HF and buy a spark tester for about $3).
Next, make sure flywheel key is not sheared. If it has moved out-of-timing you will get some firing, perhaps some backfiring, but it will not run. Make sure that inside the flywheel there has not accumulated about 5 lbs. of fine dirt. It there is clean it out carefully so you do not damage the magnets. Ensure that the air gap between the flywheel and coil is set correctly.
Thirdly, clean the carb again. Remove the gas tank and totally clean it out. Totally! Make certain fuel pickup is clean and not plugged. Replace ALL of the fuel line with Tygon. Don't ever buy another inch of rubber fuel line. If you are getting moisture from the tank, it will not run. FACT: water will NOT draw through the orifices in the carb. The smallest amount of water will not draw through, and it will clog any gasoline from drawing through.
Check your throttle/choke linkage. When the throttle lever is moved all the way up it should fully close the choke butterfly. A very simple adjustment to make. These Kawasakis do need full choke. Even if the engine has only been shut off for 10 minutes. It will need to be fully choked again or it will crank and crank.
Just an aside remark: One of the best kept secrets in the world seems to be the fact that on Kawasaki and Honda engines you DO NOT screw the dipstick in when checking oil level. Just drop it on top of the dipstick tube. If you screw it in you will be about a half quart low. The oil capacity is only about 1-1/2 quarts, so you would be utilizing only 2/3 of what it should be. That cannot be good for things.
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