[bengelp]

I posted on this quite a while ago but I've seen it come up a few times and had some emails about it, so I'll post it again.

For anyone who thinks their 49 blower doesn't throw the snow far enough, try changing the driven sprocket (on the auger) to one with 4 less teeth than what is currently on it. This is the equivalent of the 10% speed-up pulley on the 50" decks. You'll get around 8 feet of extra distance on the snow and probably notice it doesn't plug up quite as easy with heavier snow either. It puts slightly more load on the engine, but nothing serious.

I did this to mine last fall and now I don't have to throw the snow twice just to clear the driveway.

 

[rob_tegtmeyer]

Pete,
Where did you get the sprocket, Part number, Details?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[bengelp]

I just went to the local Tractor Supply Co. and bought a sprocket with a weld-in hub.

 

[steves]

Pete, did you have to remove chain links.

 

[bengelp]

Yup, I had to remove a link.

 

[Jbmiller]

I've gone another route,easier. I replaced the pulley that gets power from the PTO.The original is 7", I used a 6".Should speed up by 10-15%.Hopefully I won't have to try it out too soon.
This way keeps the unit 'stock' and no welding is involved.
Jay

 

[bengelp]

You don't have to weld if you can find the correct sprocket with the correct hub. The problem with changing the driven pulley is that it puts a lot of extra stress on the belt and may be running the tensioner at the end of its range, resulting in slipping and/or premature belt failure.

(Message edited by bengelp on November 07, 2005)

 

[The_big_k]

Hey Pete, Found Gear/Hub plus master link at Fleet Farm store Total cost $26.00 and two hours later done Thanks Ken

 

[aambaruch]

I have an older John Deere GT100. 25 Hp Kohler and 54" Deck. I started using a Power Flow system two years and have had trouble engaging the blades. I assumed this was due to the higher drag on the system from the additional fan driven by the deck belt.

The Kohler normally takes a while before I can engage the blades without the Power Flow; maybe 2 minutes of warmup. With the Power Flow, it can take up to 10 minutes of warmup to successfully engage the blades, with 10 attempts that have stalled the engine out. I usually have to do this at full speed, which is not good for the clutch.

After I have been mowing for a while, I can easily engage the blades and Power Flow at idle.

I just checked out a couple of items to rule some things out: 1. after no running for two months the battery had 12.x volts. 2. the engine started up normally, and the voltage did not drop below 10.x volts during cranking 3. once started, the voltage was a stable 14.4 volts 4. when I tried to engage the PTO it only clicked, did not engage the blades, and made the engine sputter.

I think that my charging system is operating properly. My battery may be ok, but it was a cheap battery, with only 300 CCA at 0F. It is a U1L.

How can I determine whether this is a battery or PTO issue? I could borrow a battery tester from work to try to assess the battery, although they are not always reliable. If I had multiple attempts to engage the PTO last season, did I cause a lot of wear and maybe open up the air gap too much?

I would be very appreciative of any input and direction as to how I can correctly determine the problem so I do not have to randomly replace parts. I am in Minnesota, so I do have a couple of months before I need to be cutting.

 

[woodpecker41]

Art most but all not electric PTOs do occasionally need the air gap adjusted for wear. I would try that first. I not sure on your model but most should have about .018" gap with the PTO cold and the feeler gauge between the disc and the plate that engages it. There should be 3 adjustment bolts to to change this. A call to your JD dealer should be able to confirm that it is adjustable and the correct gap. Basically what is happening now is you are or are not sliding the PTO clutch enough. I would say your battery is a bit suspect and I believe JD recommends you engage at full RPMs. Welcome to WFM. Roger

 

[chuckv]

Art and Roger,

The horizontal engined tractors have a nominal air gap of around 0.018 inches, while the vertical motors usually have a larger nominal gap of 0.020 to 0.024 inches.

Also, Deere recommends engaging and disengaging the PTO at part throttle, but using WOT while mowing:

From the description of the drag on the engine when engaging the PTO when cold, you may have the gap set too small and the integral brake in the PTO is dragging until everything expands with increased temperature...

Chuck

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Art -

I've seen the Newer Kohlers' Post 96' or so , Engines (that operate on the 'lean fringe' - to meet EPA requirements) needing to be fully warm before they will stay running when you turn the blades on . The easy way around this is to give it partial choke when you engage the blades . The extra shot of fuel (momentarily) will get them over the hump .

I can't speak of the newer clutches , as some of them are non-adjustable , intentionally non serviceable , from factory .

I suspect this may be true of the GT100 , though I have never even heard of a GT100 . A G100 yes , now I've heard of that one .


Dave