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As your sitting on the machine the tabs that hold the chute are at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. The 6 o’clock cable comes off the bottom of the drum and goes two holes past the tab, through the hole and back through the two chute tabs and gets sandwiched tight when you tighten the screws. The 12 o’clock comes off the top and goes two holes past ect. That will give you rotation from 7:30 to 4:30 o’clock, you don’t want it going any farther than that or you’ll be blasted with snow!! 🤣🤣 The cable is 1/8” 👍🏻
 

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As your sitting on the machine the tabs that hold the chute are at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. The 6 o’clock cable comes off the bottom of the drum and goes two holes past the tab, through the hole and back through the two chute tabs and gets sandwiched tight when you tighten the screws. The 12 o’clock comes off the top and goes two holes past ect. That will give you rotation from 7:30 to 4:30 o’clock, you don’t want it going any farther than that or you’ll be blasted with snow!! 🤣🤣 The cable is 1/8” 👍🏻
How many times does cable wind around drum? Thx.
 

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Just an FYI you can use the plastic coated cable if you are inclined. You can fit the next size up as well.

I would guess there are 2 loops going either direction.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was sanding some of the rust inside the shell where the chute goes on, I started spray painting it. I painted the lip where the chute slides around on, and now thinking I probably shouldn't have and just put some grease over it. Should I sand the paint off the lip?
 

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I don’t think the paint will hurt a bit. There’s a lot of wiggle room there. You’ll see when you put the chute on. Grease will stiffen in the cold weather but you want to spray with your favorite type of lube. Guys use Pam, Teflon spray, whatever, but most chutes are rusted pretty bad and they still work fine. I do like the idea of the Teflon ring but I’m running a Berco. I use chainsaw chain oil to lube the chain and other parts on my Berco. It does a good job 👍🏻
 

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I was sanding some of the rust inside the shell where the chute goes on, I started spray painting it. I painted the lip where the chute slides around on, and now thinking I probably shouldn't have and just put some grease over it. Should I sand the paint off the lip?
Leave the paint. Go to Walmart and get a cheap thin plastic cutting board and cut a gasket/washer that fits under the chute.
 
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Gabby, I took your advice. I was at Menards (Home Improvement store in US Midwest) yesterday and found a pack of very thin cutting surfaces. They are called Flexible Chopping Mats. Four 12"x14.8" pieces in the package for less than $3.00. I cut out a round "washer" for the top of the shell where the chute attaches and also a 2" wide strip to place around the shell vertical lip to use as a spacer between the shell and the discharge chute. Here are some pics. In the closeup, I have one piece of the cutting surface standing on edge so you can see how thin it is. The chute turns freely and I'm hoping the material lasts and won't need lubrication. View attachment 273656 View attachment 273657
Here are some photos from an earlier thread that Drafter started. Check out the whole posting for other tips and advice.
 

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Here's a link to the complete post.

 

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There was a radio station in Milwaukee Wisconsin that ran a segment after each major snow storm that was called: What did you put through your snow blower and how far did she go? The caller had to explain what they had tried to get their snow blower to eat (Christmas lights and newspapers were a common culprit), how far the snow blower threw it, the make of the snow blower and the horsepower. It was always a hit segment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I ended up using vinyl coated cable, we'll see how that lasts. Got my chute all nice and painted. Flipped the cutting edge around. Only to realize the gear box has a lot of slop in the main pulley. Ended up finding another blower off market place nearby that has a solid box, and isn't so rusty. Swapped my speed up gear, and chute over today. Seemed like the chute turned easier when I had it on the other one, oh well.
Question: I changed the orings in the hydraulic couplers, is it normal for them to leak when engine off and blower is up? I figured they should just hold pressure and blower up forever when it's off. It did that with the old orings too. I'll probably just have to put it down when I park.
 

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I’ve never had luck changing orings. I know it can be done, I’m just not good at it. I’ve changed a bunch on pressure washer hoses too and it’s always a pita. You could always set the blower on a couple peices of wood to avoid the rust spot.
 
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