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49 snowthrower chute cable re route

1701 Views 24 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Mike48321
I've been searching on here looking for a forum about re wrapping the cable chute so it turns farther. The one I found is an old dead link. Also, what size cable is it?
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They were kind of tricky getting back in, but once the got started it was easy to work around.
With the snow blower raised and tractor shut off there are two opportunities for a hydraulic leak to occur. Externally through bad coupler o-rings, hydraulic fittings, hoses, etc and internally through spool to bore fit in the spool valve. Typically, internal leaks aren’t considered “excessive” unless the leakage rate is more than “1/4” per hour on JD farm equipment (not sure about spec for garden tractors) with 150 degree hydraulic oil temperature. That spec suggests that some settling (due to internal leakage) is not uncommon. Note: There are hydraulic components call “load locks” that check hydraulic system components from leaking under load. These additional components are usually added/used in hydraulic systems where safety is an issue. To my knowledge they are not used in most general application garden tractor systems.

In my experience with external hydraulic female coupler leaks on garden tractors, I replace the female coupler assembly and are done with it. Typically I find that the old coupler bodies don’t have the storage plugs installed or are even full of rust, the female coupler latching balls are rusted/frozen in place, as well as the seating poppet (that seals the hydraulic fluid in the tractor hydraulic line) are rusted/pitted. Yep, that’s a pricey part to buy, but it damn sure reminds me to slap a little grease into the coupler body before I put the storage plugs back in after use.
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I was thinking of replacing the female coupler since the o rings didn't fix it.
That’s what I do, lots of parts donors! 👍🏻
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