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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I said Id start a thread detailing the process of replacing the gears, and here it is.

A couple things before I get started.
I noticed that the bearings on one shaft are bad, so Ill be replacing all the bearings while I have it off.
Also, I believe I may have found a contributing factor to the failure.
Last year when I reassembled the thrower, I put a new bushing in one end of the auger.
It fit pretty snug then, but when I went to inspect it this time, it wouldnt turn at all. The shear bolt did break, and Im sure the auger turned a little, since the flanges dont line up, but I am just guessing here, but the resistance was probably too great for the gears to handle.

I should have taken a bit more care when I assembled it in the first place, and made the fit on the bushing a bit looser.
Anyway, I remedied that this evening.

Here is what I found when I took the gearbox off.


I have the new gears already, but need to get the bearings.

I will remove the old gears, bearings, and clean up the housing and take more pics along the way...stay tuned.
 

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Jim......

I blew my little gear apart yesterday, and it took most of the teeth off the 30t gear also. I also found the bearings bad. I ordered the bearings, gears and seals this morning, ouch.

Phil
 

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Tom...

No changes at all to the blower. I've only had it three days. The gear box was full of sludge and shush. Everything in the box, the chain and sprockets were covered in rust. I think everything was a little weak and tight, I should have cleaned things up some instead of just oiling everything down and going to it.

I'll get ie reliable first, then I'll hotrod it some.
 

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OH BOY!!!!

Just cleaned up the shafts and box on mine. The gear ends of both shafts {M42510 and M42511} are chewed up here the snap ring goes. They are NLA from Deere, so I'm hoping I can dress them up and make them work.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Philip, I am going to get my bearings elsewhere. Im going to call Motion Industries on Monday, because from what Ive seen on JDParts, they are pretty proud of the bearings for this gearbox.
I believe my seals are OK, so Im not going to replace them.
 

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Yeah, The bearings were pretty salty!!! I screwed up the seals beating the bearings out!! It's a wonder I didn't break the box up.

Didn't mean to hi-jack your thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Philip, you didnt. This is about the repair and replacement and we are all talking about it, so no harm!

I need to get back out there this afternoon and get a couple pictures and get the gearbox cleaned up...and maybe get the bearings out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, its been really cold out so I havent done anything with it except order the bearings.
Should have them tomorrow.
I did a little research before I ordered them (from Motion Industries).

Here is what I found.
JD part numbers and prices:
JD9325 11.93 The one on the outside of the box.
M42512 29.96 Inside of the box, no seals.

Actual bearings are for the JD9325 is a 1630RS which was about the same price at $11 and some change.
The other, M42512, is and R12, with a 5/16" width. THAT little bugger cost me all of $10 and some change each.
So basically, I get all 4 bearings for the cost of one of each from Deere.
Id say thats a fairly significant savings...and thought maybe someone else would think so too.
I pick them up in the morning, and will post pics of the new bearings with any actual part numbers I can find. And Im hoping to get some actual work done on the gearbox too, like get the old bearings out and the new in...
 

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Jim.....

I just picked up all my parts this morning. The parts including a new $13 belt and $10 hat cost me $302.00!!!!!!! Maybe I should have shopped the bearings a little.
 

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}So basically, I get all 4 bearings for the cost of one of each from Deere.
Id say thats a fairly significant savings...and thought maybe someone else would think so too.
You Bet I DO - Thanks

Phil: THAT's a bummer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, heres what I just picked up:


You can see in the pics the numbers of the bearings...
I cant make out anything but a bunch of numbers jibberish on the invoice.

They are listed on the invoice as different than what I was quoted, but close enough.
You could do it cheaper 2 places it appears though.
The 1630 shows 16.37 ea, which I think Deere had for $12, but the other, smaller one, the R12, shows 6.31, which Deere had for $29!!!

Im off to remove the old bearings and get these in, and hopefully get the whole thing back together tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, Ive been working.

Got it back together.
Here are a couple of shots:
Bearings in:




Everything else in except grease:


A couple tips that may or may not help.

The non sealed bearing needs to be greased before you install it. It will be covered by the gears and while it will receive some grease after it starts moving around, it wont be enough to lubricate it completely.

I tried at first to install both bearings for one shaft at the same time, using a large c-clamp, with of course something to protect the new bearings (I used the old bearings for this), but it didnt work so well as if one went the slightest bit crooked, the other one did the same thing in the opposite direction.
One at a time went much better!
A hydraulic arbor press would be wonderful to have, but I have yet to acquire one of those.

Be sure to watch the inside bearing when you put the shafts back in. These bearings are pretty snug on the shaft, so the inside one wanted to move out of the bore as the shaft was pressed in.

You can install one shaft, and then a gear, but you cant install both shafts and then gears.
Sounds trivial, and I knew that going in, but still managed to get a shaft too far in before putting the small gear (last one for me) in place and had to back the shaft out a bit.

Otherwise, it went well. Gears fit at least as tight as the old ones did on my last inspection a few years ago, and with new bearings in there, I expect they will last at least as long.

Im going to go back out after dinner and grease up the gearbox with fresh Corn Head Grease and put it all back together, or at least get a good start.

Hopefully it will be ready by the time the snow flies again tomorrow night and thru Thursday and Friday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh, and just a clarification on the bearings...

They cost me with tax $48.54 vs $89.07 from Mother Deere. Not quite half but pretty close, and had I been paying attention, or at least had they told me the correct price at Motion, I could have gotten them for about $10 less but I would have had to wait on my dealer to get the two cheaper ones in, and would not have it ready to go tomorrow...heck, Id be lucky to see the bearings by Friday.
In my mind, Ill just reverse the prices and be really happy at how cheap I got them!
 

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Jim B, how/why did you make the decision to lube w/ grease rather than gear oil? I know there has been discussion on the grease v oil debate elsewhere. My Deere manuals clearly state 80w oil in the 49 gear box (at least I think they do, been awhile since I looked . . . I hate eating my own words), and the drain plugs are set up for oil. But I know others, like yourself, use grease. Did you think about grease v oil in your rebuild?

Just wondering . . . things like this keep me up at night!

Jim V
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Tom, I clamped the gearbox in my big vise between a couple pieces of wood and used a 5/8" rod to hammer them out, working in a circular pattern as I hit the rod, taking care to avoid the seal inside too!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Jim V, I found nowhere that listed either grease or oil, though originally I though it should be oil.
Of course me not finding anything really doesnt mean much, since I dont have the OM for the 49...

When I rebuilt the entire thrower last year, I looked into it a bit before I started. Well, when I actually tore into it and took a look in the gearbox, it was VERY obvious there was never oil in it, but just grease. And that grease was pretty hard. Wanting to keep it the way it was from the factory (sans the hard pack grease), I decided to put grease back in, but then wondered about low temps, and what happened to the original grease, etc...which lead me to the Corn Head grease.

Also, I have no drain plugs either, just the cover. Although it does have seals inside, between the inner and outer bearings, I dont think Id trust it to hold oil, but I guess if I knew that somewhere for my S/N it was written to use oil, that might be different.
Of course then Id have to take the gearbox BACK out and clean it out and fill it with oil.
 

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Jim B:

My operator's manual indicates that it is for 49 snow throwers serial 5835- and my blower is serial 6023. The OM indicates on page 4 that JD AM30300M lubricant should be added through the fill hole "until the oil spills out". Elsewhere we see on WFM that AM30200M is 80-90W oil (http://www.wfmachines.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi?pg=prev&topic=335&page=109463). If I get a chance tomorrow I'll scan the relevant pages of the OM and post them.

But I'm not suggesting that grease is wrong. I just think that some 49's use grease and some oil. My unit clearly has oil fill holes in the plate, and as you noted, your's doesn't.

Jim
 

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And your right Jim V.... some 49's use grease and some oil....but let your seal wear out on your oil filled..gear box ,then what..and less you catch it, .. you run the chance of no lub...as to were the grease,filled one you still have lub..and cornhead grease..is made for gear box's...and it work's ..just my 2 cent's
 
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