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If you get the 8HP Briggs out of a 100 it will have the 7/8" stepped shaft and the deck will work. A Tecumseh will fit with less modification to the tractor and you can have a machine shop step the shaft or broach the PTO so you can use the mower deck. If you search for "Repower 60" or "Repower 70" you should find a few good threads on it.
 

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Just to through a spanner in the works I fitted a second hand Honda GXV 270 engine in my model 70. The engine cost £30 from Ebay. I had to extend the chasis and make a cut out in the right hand side member. The engine works really well and I'm very pleased. I will however have to extend the bonnet about 3", which I'll do soon, but the front needed repairing anyway.
Here's a photo,
Rob.


(Message edited by kkortman112 on December 15, 2010)
 

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Hey Guys,
I posted this in another spot here but I thought it useful so I'm copying and pasting it here. If you had to suffer reading this twice, I'm sorry. If this helps, great. Here Goes...
I'm new here and if you take my knowledge and $1.50 to the local gas station you should be able to buy a cup of coffee. However, I'm in a similar situation am going to try replacing my engine with a
briggs,
Model Series 121S00 Professional Series™ - 8.75 Gross Torque/190cc
It's a bit underpowered. By my figures, it's 5.1something @ 3100 RPM. However, when the original VH60 was @ 3100 it seams to me it was at the same horsepower. Also, I think with the overhead valve I will be able to maintain a more constant HP and Torque. It has key start and appears to be the same shaft length and diameter. Any thoughts??? It's too late for me, I already have the engine on order. $400.00 from northern hydraulics.
Hope it works.
By the way, great site. Lots of useful info here
 

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Thomas, please let us know how you end up with the Northern Hydraulics engine...I may go that direction too. If the shaft is right then I like the idea that I can use the mower deck I have for my JD 60. -Joseph (Rhode Island)
 

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Joseph that is a light flywheel engine which is designed to have a blade on it at all times to be able to run. If you try it without a blade you will have a very difficult time starting it if you can get it started at all. If you want to see the problem and have a push mower the blade turns on all the time take the blade off and try to start it. Be careful you don't hurt you hands and rotator cup. Roger
 

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OK, so I sent this in E-mail form to another member who asked for it, but I want to post it here also because I don't want to see any of you throw this tractor away because of a motor. Joseph, my engine install is complete, and it appears to be running great. The engine is a special order Briggs from northern hydraulics. Roger, you are right, it is a light flywheel but it does start and run fine. I think the rotating mass of the drive pulley must be enough because I am seeing no issues at idle or PTO engagement. However a heavy flywheel is available for the engine if you don't want to use the light one. Well it's not actually for this engine but it will fit this engine and line up with the electric start. It's just a flywheel of another Briggs with electric start. I found my engine by going to the Briggs and Stratton web site and searching their vertical shaft engines until I found one that matched the shaft length and diameter of the old one (7/8"shaft 3/5/32 length). A few other things that are a must for me but may not be for someone else are electric start, HP and torque. You see, I live in MN and will be blowing snow with this as well as mowing grass so I wanted to ensure I bought enough power. That said, without turning up the RPM, It’s a touch under powered for blowing snow. A smaller engine would have been fine for mowing the lawn or pulling around a little garden trailer but you need this one or bigger if you’re going to blow snow. I will be turning it up to 3400. If my numbers are right, when I do that it will almost identically match the HP and Torque of the original motor. Though it works fine the way it is too. I just have a need to tinker:) It does blow snow just fine in low range, 2nd gear the way it sits. The tractor is a bit light for blowing snow too so I get some wheel spin even with the chains. That said we did just have the biggest snow storm in 15 years here in MN and I'm basing it off of that. I'm planning on adding weight between the wheels just forward of the rear axle. As far as engine installation goes, it really is no big deal. However, you have to use your head and be a bit creative or it will never work. Patients help too. The positives are you can use the original gas tank and you don't have to cut the frame to install the engine. However, you will have to re-do the wiring harness (easy), cut the PTO break carrier slightly so the engine will fit, cut the grill slightly so the throttle linkage will work, bend the throttle arm @ 90 degrees so you don't have to cut so much of the grill, buy a new longer throttle cable ($8 @ ace hardware), turn down the drive pulley as to lengthen the flange so it doesn't rub on the motor when spinning and drill motor mount holes. Also you will have to re-locate the oil filler, remove the gas tank that came with the engine, remove the engine stop that came with the engine (designed for a push mower), move the battery carrier back as far as you can and probably a few other things that I can't remember off the top. These are a few things I learned along the way. I really enjoyed doing this project and would love to help anyone keep this little old John Deere running. If you have questions, Please E-mail me [email protected] . If anyone on this forum tries the heavier flywheel please let me know if it is an improvement. Its $50 and I'm not sure if I should spend the money or not based on how well it runs right now. Also, please let me know if any of you figure out something that I didn't so that I my further improve this tractor. I apologize about spelling and grammatical errors in this text. I’m a motor head not an English major.
 

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Not a problem I've been telling myself to do that for about a week now and every time I go out to the shop to take 2 minutes worth of picks I end up out there until midnight lost in the madness of tinkering modifying, repairing, thinking. I'm at work now but will get them posted as soon as I get home:) Though, please, be nice with your comments about appearance. I just got this thing running, it's not anywhere what I consider restored. However, the engine is professionally installed. Really all I need now is to fix the hood, tare everything down to the last nut and bolt and paint. Anyone in MN do beautiful work for low cost? I'll do the tear down and assembly. I want everything (except the hood of course) blasted and painted to show quality. This includes the yellow snow thrower and mower deck. I am an excellent machinist, mechanic and welder but a 4 year old with water colors could do a better job painting (spelling and writing) than I can.
 

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Although there are many great restorations on this forum many of us myself included are not into show tractors. I am into using the 12 tractors I own not just washing and polishing them. Looking forward to the pictures. Roger
 

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as you can see I have no idea what I'm doing with this pick posting stuff but they are here and re-sized about 9 F-ing times. If anyone wants more picks I will E-mail them but I'm not posting them here.
 

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Looks good and nice job. My advice for pictures here is take them on the lowest resolution your tractor will allow and 480 x 640 format. To get them to post correctly you need to hit the return key after each picture entry and they will stack correctly. If you have a MAC Imagewell is a very easy to use resizing program. There is also a resizer for Windows one on the top of the front page. Roger
 
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