[Max]

Hi i'm new here and bought a 110 couple weeks ago.
The engine wasn't running cause carb and fuel tank were missing.
I cleaned up the compleat tractor removed the head grind the valves and adjust etc.
The block is in 0.30 and gets weak during running and driving if it warm up.
So my question is, could I use a k241 in the original frame or did I have to drill and cut some parts?

I want to mow with the little tractor and use it with the original tiller, so a few more hp couldn't be wrong.

Second question is
I have a k141 block out of a toro professional 70, could I use it for the original k181 engine.
Bore is the same but stroke is an other.
Is the difference only in the connecting rod and camshaft or in the block too ?

 

[MiniHomesteader]

The problem with engine swaps in these tractors is the small under hood area. Most single cylinder engines are too tall and require cutting the hood to fit and they look terrible. You can slide in a v-twin without cutting the hood, but. There isn’t room for the fuel tank. See my current project here My latest 112 project “Victor”

What do you mean by getting weak while running. Low power? Most of the time you will get heavy smoke and oil consumption before power drop if it’s an internal engine issue. If it drops power when warm, it could be an ignition issue… ie failing condenser, or a valve lash issue… ie valves adjusted too tight and not fully closing when warmed up.

 

[Max]

The problem with engine swaps in these tractors is the small under hood area. Most single cylinder engines are too tall and require cutting the hood to fit and they look terrible. You can slide in a v-twin without cutting the hood, but. There isn’t room for the fuel tank. See my current project here My latest 112 project “Victor”

What do you mean by getting weak while running. Low power? Most of the time you will get heavy smoke and oil consumption before power drop if it’s an internal engine issue. If it drops power when warm, it could be an ignition issue… ie failing condenser, or a valve lash issue… ie valves adjusted too tight and not fully closing when warmed up.

I didnt want do swap a "new" engine.
It should look near to original so it has to be a k serie with an altanator.
In cold condition the engine is running very nice and in a constant deep idle.
If it warm up during a while of driving the idle isnt constant like before and died after a moment.
The bore have some scratches so I think it got damaged by sth and then got grinded to 0.30

Do you know someone who swamped an other k serie?
Is the k141 block useful for this Projekt and could I get the 8 hp out of it?

 

[MiniHomesteader]

If you are want the tractor original, I would look for another K181. Although I’m not sure what is interchangeable with the other K series engines, or if it’s possible to get more power out of a smaller K engine.

 

[Max]

If you are want the tractor original, I would look for another K181. Although I’m not sure what is interchangeable with the other K series engines, or if it’s possible to get more power out of a smaller K engine.

Did someone else know sth about this Here?

 

[Max]

If you are want the tractor original, I would look for another K181. Although I’m not sure what is interchangeable with the other K series engines, or if it’s possible to get more power out of a smaller K engine.

I could get a Magnum 8 near my Location
Did this Block fit as Swap and Switch all parts from my k181 and only use the Magnum Block with new 0.10?