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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, finally got my mower running. I bought it last winter, hadn't run in 20 years. still needs a lot of work though. I can't get the clutch pedal to move more that an inch or two when I press on it. And when I do, i can hear the idler pulley slapping the top inside of it's housing, like the belt is way too tight or something, but it sits slack when I'm not pushing on the pedal. I can drive the tractor around the yard just fine, shifts through all the gears, but the variator drive isn't functioning properly. The tractor won't move when the lever is pulled all the way towards me. The variator sheave is rotating smooth, not seized. Does the variator drive just need to be adjusted to get the clutch pedal to function properly?

And while I was underneath the tractor, I noticed a small broken spring, took a photo, hoping somebody can shed some light on that too. and the idler pulley sure flops around easily, theres a little rounded metal rod connected to the back side of it thats hanging down too, is that supposed to hook up to something?

Thanks a lot guys.

Dow

Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Wheel Wood

back side of variator sheave


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Auto part Iron

secondary belt pulley on transaxle, notice where idler pulley connects to transaxle, underneath is the hanging metal piece.
 

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Picture #1 the variator center sheave is probably stuck along with the broken spring. If you remove the small door, below the ignition switch you will find a grease fitting in there, often overlooked. The variator pivots on a pipe sleave if it has been greased. Most of the ones I take apart are frozen up. Picture#2 looks like the set screw is loose on the drive flange and moving in/out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I tried following along in the JD 110 operators manual OM-M42256 for adjusting the variator...and i'm stuck. I got step 1, 2, 3, 4, and then 5. 5 says measure distance at "E", which is the distance between the bottom of the footrest and the top of the clutch-brake arm. this distance should be 1/2 inch. I've got the linkage disconnected at the inspection plate on the pedestal, the brake linkage disconnected, and the clutch override linkage disconnected. Well, the clutch pedal is completely disconnected from everything like the manual says, at least I think thats what it says, its hard to follow, not very clear to me. So how do you get it to stay a 1/2" from the bottom of the footrest? Is there supposed to be a spring holding it in place? I tried tying it in position a 1/2" away from the bottom of the footrest and I can't get the clutch override to slide onto its rod and then connect to the clutch pedal linkage again. I backed the rod off all the way no worky, tightened it up all the way back to the top no worky....i can't get that damn clutch override adjusted and back on the clutch pedal again...Im screwing it up somehow? Watched a video on youtube and this guys rf 110 has a different set-up, he's got a clutch yolk instead of this override part....seems much easier. appreciate any help. Thanks!

Dow
 

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Before you try any adjustments you need to make sure all the springs are there. See photo, when looking under the tractor there are two springs. The large one connects to what is called the Variator clutch and the smaller one connects to the idler with a rod assembly. If you need more detail I can try and find more pictures.
 

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I had a very similar problem with a '64 110. It turned out that the adjustment rod that connects from the vari-drive arm to the clutch spring had broken in half right at the end of the threads and it just locked everything up. I was able to find the part in the for sale forum on WFM and it corrected the problem. It was tough to find the break until I got under the tractor using a bright light to see it. Replaced the part and the tractor runs like a charm now. The part number for a 6'7 is M42254.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm...thanks guys. I think I figured it out with everybody's input. Got a couple deficiencies going on....1, the variator sheave is frozen, will not pivot. 2, the variator adjustment rod was missing a pin that goes thru the middle of it so that it can be turned up or down with tension on the clutch spring, and 3, i don't have the spring on the right in Bill's photo that he provided above. I think that's a view from the rear looking forward, clutch spring on the left...and the other spring on the right by the idler, not sure what its for? there's no little hook for it to connect to like in his photo either.

Dow
 

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Just as any FYI, it must be a larger issue. I can't post picture to WFM either. So both GTT and WFM are affected. I am using a MAC tried both safari and chrome.
---End Quote---
Yes, they are on the same server-thats where the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i think I've got it figured out what that spring is for. It just keeps tension on the idler pulley and secondary belt? The little hook connects to the idler pulley, is that right? I found the spring and hook plus all the other idler parts on eBay...I really just need the hook and spring. Does anybody have one they might consider partings with?

Thanks,
Dow
 

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Bill,
There seems to be a problem with posting attachments on vbulletin software. This started yesterday, late. And yes, it's affecting both WFM and GTT. I notified the software's admin staff late yesterday. I'm hoping they will fix it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
UPDATE! I installed the spring and hook I found, and voila....things started making sense. I adjusted the variator as per the owners manual instructions, and the clutch/brake pedal. It was completely out of whack, probably because that pulley spring had broken. Its all properly adjusted and the clutch/brake pedal is no longer stuck...works just fine now. Thanks for everybody help. Now to replace the broken gov cross shaft, unseize the mower deck blades, replace the transaxle oil seals....sheesh.

Dow
 

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Transaxle is simple....after you do a few:thumb:
 
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