Weekend Freedom Machines banner
41 - 60 of 104 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
You do need a good air supply... I got a bunch of the abrasive pads at the local Harbor Freight and have done all the cleaning/sanding with those.

I am far from where you are in terms of progress... please do share as many photos as possible as I need to perform the same tasks... Well, different from you, I also need to rebuild the engine (if I can get free up the piston without breaking the block)...

Photo from where I got it...

View attachment 268017

And a photo from last week... cleaning and painting as I go... I will take it apart again in a year or two to redo it again, for now I am just going over it and getting it back operational...

Going over your posts on removing the console/steering assembly... as I want to do that next...

View attachment 268018
I will try to get pictures and document as I go for you. I have a bunch on the PC from digital camera of tear down, so if you have any questions let me know.
This as I said in beginning is not going to be a quick turn around. As time and money allows it will get worked on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wachuko

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Took @wachuko advice and used the big compressor. Also got some coarse abrasive disks when I was out yesterday. Did a much better job. Also used wire wheel to get into tight spots.
268080


268081

The reinforcement plate on bottom of seat was pretty rusted and half gone, so removed it and will tack on a new piece. We got some plate laying around to use.
268082

There were only 4 tack welds holding it in place and didn't take much with cut off wheel and air chisel to pop it off. Took some picture with tape to layout holes for new one.
268083

Got one coat of primer on to protect till new piece is on. Will put second on I about 1/2 hour.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jd140 and wachuko

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Nice work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Nice work!
Thanks. Got 2nd coat of primer on. End of can it got a little pebbly. But no big deal. Will take some 4-0 steel wool after new plate is attached and reprime.
268096
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Did some more sanding, wire wheeling of parts tonight after TS Elsa finished and before another set of showers hit. No pictures.
Also cleaned steering wheel. It needs some major work. Got cracks, finish is worn off. Will need to search past threads on restoring it. I remember some used epoxy, others JB weld and maybe even Bondo. Here are some pictures.
Top
268223

Bottom
268224

Major crack
268226

After posting, I see there are a couple products. Eastman and POR15 make an epoxy for repairing steering wheels. Anyone tried these?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jd140

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Great progress....

That steer wheel looks pretty rough IMO. Not sure hw well a repair would hold up with the existing condition of aged composite.

NEW steering wheel link

Michael
I am guessing that as long as it is not bent down... epoxy and a new coat of paint should do the trick... In my case, in addition to the cracks, mine was bent down... no way to resurrect it... So a new one from HAPCO was ordered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Great progress....

That steer wheel looks pretty rough IMO. Not sure hw well a repair would hold up with the existing condition of aged composite.

NEW steering wheel link

Michael
Yeah it's rough, but not bent or broken.
For the $15 or $20 bucks for the epoxy kits, I am going to try to repair.
Who knows when hapco will new in stock?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,429 Posts
Job for Flex-Coat?

If it can make a sail boat from a screen door it should fix the steering wheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Job for Flex-Coat?

If it can make a sail boat from a screen door it should fix the steering wheel?
Tried that stuff on our old camper's roof. It doesn't hold up well to sun and drastic temperature changes. Was cracked and loose after a year of being outside and exposed to the elements. Had to go and scrape it off and use lap sealant specifically made for camper's EPDM roof.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gabby_in_wis

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
My concern with a repair is the composite material is broke down enough that is starting to come off and or separate from the skeleton and or spoke. Repairing the cracks will not eliminate the fact the composite is literally falling apart. Yes, you can fix the cracks and such, but these repairs will do nothing to secure material that has or will separate from the skeleton.

If you decide to give it a try I would break loose everything that is deteriorating and clean/rough up the metal skeleton to give the epoxy something to bind to. I'm specifically pointing to the spoke wear the composite has separated from the skeleton and cracked lengthwise.

A lot time and effort will go into this repair and $70.00 or so for a new wheel is money well spent IMO, even if you have to wait. Don't get me wrong many have repaired the atypical cracks realized around the circumference of the wheel from the composite shrinking with reasonably good results. I suspect that your wheel has deteriorated beyond reasonable repair efforts and or expectations.

Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
@michael_glavin The way I look at it, I have nothing to lose but money/time spent on trying the repair. It's gonna be one of the last things to go back on tractor and if it doesn't work out, oh well. It will be one of those rainy day or too humid to paint projects. Was raised that if you can fix it, better off for it.

From what I read of the products, they do recommend opening cracks/areas down to metal so the product bonds to all surfaces.

Hopefully, HAPCO starts new production of the steering wheel. Might just get one anyway.

This is not gonna be a show tractor. I just want it to look nice and run and enjoy it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wachuko

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Talking with my son last night. He goes "Dad why don't you work on frame, tranny, front axle? That way you can have a roller that's done and then work on parts for each section...variator, steering, lift, etc." I said, "When did you become so sensible?"
So changing gears a bit.
The weather has been sucky here, so got the tranny up on stands in the barn, drained the gear oil, pulled the drive hub and brake hub. Then pulled wheel hubs. Well one anyway. The one side would not budge even with puller on it. So sprayed it with Blaster and will pick up some propane tanks to put heat on it tomorrow. Some pictures:
Drained gear oil. Not the best looking but still viscous.
268418

Left side hub and axle tube off. Sheared off bolt came right out.
268419

Stubborn hub
268420

Tranny tag
268421
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
I haven't been following along too closely on this one John, but it is gonna look great when your done. Nice to see you taking your time with the process.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wachuko and lt230s

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,937 Posts
Glazing putty has worked not too bad to fill in light pitting, for me anyway. Easy to sand, then hit it with some high build primer and sand it some more.

Sandblasting is obviously the best way to do the pitting if possible. I'd have killed for the blasting rig I have now for some of the past work I've done with my shop compressor. It's a reliable 18 CFM huffer but still not nearly as good as the 4 cylinder engine powered compressor I got from dad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Worked on getting the hub off again tonight. Wouldn't budge even with propane torch. Might have to break out son's acetelyne torch. Did spray it down again with Blaster. Just will keep plugging away at it.
Did pull all parts off front axle. Will clean them up good and check bushings, etc. If hub still doesn't cooperate, I'll concentrate on this and get sanded, primed and ready for paint.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wachuko

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
More heat and Blaster on the hub. Patience is a virtue.
Anyway, cleaned up spindles, hardware. Will clean axle tomorrow. Not sure if they will get primed since they're calling for 70% chance of rain all weekend.
I think the spindles were reinforced. They have gussets on them. They were done pretty well but not factory. Maybe this machine had a loader in another life.
268476


268477
 
  • Like
Reactions: army and wachuko

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,429 Posts
It is kind of hard to see but the spindles on my 67 RF have the have the reinforcement brackets welded in like yours. Mine had a snow thrower mounted but no loader.

 
  • Like
Reactions: lt230s

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,937 Posts
Did you wire wheel the spindles to clean them up John? They look pretty darned good.

More heat and Blaster on the hub. Patience is a virtue.
Anyway, cleaned up spindles, hardware. Will clean axle tomorrow. Not sure if they will get primed since they're calling for 70% chance of rain all weekend.
I think the spindles were reinforced. They have gussets on them. They were done pretty well but not factory. Maybe this machine had a loader in another life.
View attachment 268476

View attachment 268477
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
It is kind of hard to see but the spindles on my 67 RF have the have the reinforcement brackets welded in like yours. Mine had a snow thrower mounted but no loader.
Can see them good, thanks Gabby. JD parts doesn't show them. Maybe it standard procedure on the 112s.
Did you wire wheel the spindles to clean them up John? They look pretty darned good.
Yes, used bench grinder wire wheel and small one on a drill. Still have to get between the gusset and bend to finish clean up.
 
41 - 60 of 104 Posts
Top