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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a issue with my 67 112, it has no spark. I have 12 volts going to the coil but I also 12 volts coming out the whole time. Think it's the coil or not? It has a new condenser and points. And the points are clean and making contact. Thanks
 

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Are the points set correctly?
 

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Having 12V into the coil and 12V out is good. The wire going from the - post of the coil needs to be connected to the points. As the points open and close, they act like a switch and connect the - terminal to ground and then open and then close again, etc. When the points close and the coil is grounded, current flows to the spark plug for the spark.
Make sure your point contacts open and close as you rotate the engine.
If your point gap is set too narrow or too wide, you won’t get spark at the right time. Look up the point gap spec for your engine and then use a feeler gauge to set the point gap. It will be something like .020”
If your condenser is connected to the wrong place, it can cause problems.
To check the spark plug for spark, it
must be grounded. Use a spark tester or remove the spark plug and hold the metal of the plug against the metal cylinder head and crank the engine. Use insulated pliers so you don’t get a shock. Also use a feeler gauge and make sure the spark plug gap is set according to the spec for your engine. It will be something like .030”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know everything is connected right, and thepoints are gapped and look to be working fine I have my spark plug light hooked up to watch for spark, it stays at 12 volts on the negative side all the time never changes.
 

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In a properly working system, as the points close, they momentarily ground the negative side of the coil and take the voltage to 0. If that is not happening, make sure the points are actually closing, the wire from the -12V side of the coil to the points is not missing, broken or has a bad connection and make sure the engine is grounded to the same ground as the power source. The points only close for a fraction of a second while cranking the engine and your meter may not refresh fast enough to catch the voltage change.

If you want to see if the points are working properly, you can remove the spark plug, disconnect the wire from the -12v post of the coil and put your meter on the lowest ohms scale. Put one meter lead on the wire you just removed and put the other lead on a bare spot on the engine. Slowly rotate the engine ( by hand if possible) until the points close. When the points close, the meter should read approximately 0.
 

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After following Mike U's suggestion, and you are satisfied the wire to the points is good, remove the points and burnish (polish) each point surface on a piece of corrugated cardboard. For some years now the manufacturer of some of these put some kind of invisible coating on the point surfaces to protect them from corrosion during storage and sitting on a shelf for years. It does it's job, but can insulate the point contacts so they do not conduct electricity properly. That is a long shot, but something to try.

tommyhawk
 
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