Weekend Freedom Machines banner

'68 112 steering box rebuild question.

834 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  hypersthenos
Does anyone know if the electric fuel pump that came on a 116 is AC or DC? It looks to me like it might be AC just because it's a plunger type that pulses with the AC of the alternator. I'm trying to replace it with a DC pump and it's not working. Thanks
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
All I seem to remember right now is that the stator generates AC current, which flows to the diode module, which converts it to DC, then it goes to the battery, which powers everything (need a tech. manual & mine's MIA). The electric fuel pump should be DC. Y\N? Bobo
Dan it is DC if it is an electric pump. I thought the pumps on 116 were diaphragm/mechanical in nature. The wire going to the caburetor is a fuel shut off valve or at least that is what I remember from Briggs school 30 years ago. Roger
No access to tech. manuals other than the internet now. Doesn't that particular JD tractor with that particular B&S engine have two (2) fuel pumps? One diaphragm/mechanical/pulse 1st out of the fuel tank & then another, electrical one on the engine? Sorry, I've forgotten. The electrical fuel pump should be DC. Now if I'm wrong, I hope someone posts corrections. Bobo
This early 116 has 2 fuel pumps. An electric one near the tank mounted in the steering tower and a vacuum one mounted on the carb. The tractor will run on the vacuum one alone but sputters under load. When I got the tractor the electric pump had been removed. I tried to add a DC pump in it's place and hooked it to the wire that used to go to the old pump but it does not work. It pumps if I connect it directly to the battery.
Dan, I'm not familiar with the 116 but....I may be missing something here. Do you have 12V at the wire you hooked up to the new pump with the key in the 'run' position? If not, that's why the pump won't run. A wiring schematic would help. It may be that the wire that powers the electric pump is only "hot" after the engine starts. Some vehicles shut off power to the fuel pump when the engine stops, to prevent a possible fuel leak/fire. Most of those systems use an oil pressure switch (double terminal) to control the 12V signal.

The later systems used a fuel pump relay also. Just some stuff to check....
Hey All. I'm 90% through the restoration and I've hit a snag. The steering box is apart and the upper bearing race is cracked. All bearings are otherwise in good shape. Went to the local bearing supply house and they were unable to supply this part. Just this race is no longer available from the factory and the upgraded parts cost nearly $70! I can get an entire used unit in good working order to my door from ebay for less than that. Can't seem to find just the internal parts for sale anywhere though. Anyone had luck findings replacement parts from another source? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Just did. Still cost prohibitive. Thanks though.

Sorta makes you "wonder" how folks selling a "completely rebuilt" steering gear on ebay for 125.00 can do it if just ONE part is 70.00

Obviously completely rebuilt to many is cleaned and fresh grease applied.

Rolling on the floor.

There is a NEW steering gear on ebay right now for 175.00 I think it is. Used units are 35-50 bucks. There are about ten of them now.
I have used cadet bearings most are ross steering boxes and most tubes and shaft are the same dia.
Thanks to all of you. Mitchell I'm going to try the cadet rout and see if that pans out. Any particular model of cadet I can cross reference?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.