[dstaples]

Hi everyone,just got a side tag 68 H1 140 #1713.It has a clutch issue that I just can't get sorted out.Can't get the arm adjusted to throw the bearing far enough to disengage the clutch. What am I missing? Could the drive shaft have slipped inside one of the yokes? Don't have a manual yet. Does anyone have the clutch adjustment page from theirs that they could scan for me? Thanks in advance....Don

 

[bob_r]

Don,

I had what sounds like the same or similar problem on my 70 140 Ser. 24xxx. I don't know if the linkage is the same on the two, but on mine it turned out to be grass debris buildup in the clutch linkage stop. Mine has an arm that goes into a V or U shaped bracket and bottoms for the clutch travel stop. That makes a great place for grass and debris to collect and then over time is compressed and packed very tight in there until the clutch travel is shortened because of the buildup. It took me a while to locate the problem because it is down under the driveshaft and really not visible. Even somewhat difficult to get anything in there to clean out the debris. Hope this helps. Bob

 

[dstaples]

Thanks Robert,I checked the area you mentioned and it seems to be clear.Never had a 140 before so really don't know how the clutch is supposed to work on an early 68.I need to find a manual or CD to be able to tell how it should be set up.Decal on the fender pan shows it disengaging at around half pedal,then the rest of the way for brake.Brakes seem to work ok,and with the hydro,probly wouldn't need the clutch at all,but bugs me when I know it should work and doesn't.Thanks again Don

 

[bob_r]

Don,

Sorry I don't have a scanner to scan the page, but I will describe the adjustment as best I can from my manual. First of all the 140's -10,000 are different since they have the clutch-brake pedal. From the manual - The clutch is adjusted properly when the distance between the clutch arm and the wear washer on the clutch is between 1/32 and 1/16 inch when the clutch-brake pedal is up (parking brake released). Adjust clutch as follows: 1. Remove battery and battery tray. 2. Release parking brake and loosen both nuts on threaded stud on adjusting plate. 3. Move adjusting plate forward (towards front of tractor) and tighten both nuts firmly after correct adjustment is obtained - end of procedure. I'm not certain from your post if you have tried this and were still unable to get it adjusted properly or if you used a different procedure. Again this is from the service manual for 140's -10,000. Bob

 

[dstaples]

First off,thanks for taking the time to reply so quickly.Kinda thought that the early ones were an animal of there own.I did move the adjusting plate with the stud as far ahead as possible but still have around 1/4" to 3/16" distance between clutch arm and wear washer.Clutch arm will put enough pressure on wear washer that it will stop the throwout bearing from spinning but not far enough to release the clutch.Which makes me think that the driveshaft has slid inside of either the hub at the clutch end or the hub at the fan or hydro end.I guess what I'm saying is that it looks like the throwout bearing needs to be closer to the arm,somehow.The hubs look to be held on the shaft with set screws,but can you tell from your manual if there are keyways too?Again thank you for shedding a lot more light on this than I started with.Don

 

[bob_r]

Don,

I will check the manual, but have you looked at the parts breakdown on JDParts.com? That will have diagrams of the drive shaft components as well as all of the clutch linkage. I'll get back with you on the manual information. Bob

 

[dstaples]

Robert,I looked on JDParts and the driveshaft does have keyways.I'm still thinking one end or the other has moved on one of the hubs.Gonna take the motor and driveshaft back out and see what I can find.Thanks again for the info and help.Don

 

[miraclegro]

Hello everyone, I haven't posted in a quite some time and I hope everyone has been doing well. I am looking for some advice on my 335. It has a 20hp Kawasaki fh601v. It is having hard starting issues, hot or cold doesn't matter. It has to spin over several times before it actually hits then a few more times until it finally starts. I leave this one at my mother in laws house and usually my brother in law cuts the yard for her so I personally use it very little. When it is running it runs as it should. From what he told me it started this problem sometime last summer and he kept using it. So over the winter I brought it to my shop to do the maintenance. The fuel pump was cracked and leaking so it was replaced along with the lines and a new filter. I pulled the carb off and checked it to make sure there wasn't any trash in it. It was fairly clean so I washed it out with some carb cleaner and replaced the gaskets. Then finished with the tune up and changing the other filters and spark plugs. The engine is still hard to start. Could it be a valve adjustment problem if so what are the clearance specs on them? Any other thoughts? thanks Steve

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Simple check is to make sure the choke plate is closing all the way . I've seen this more than once , where the adjustment gets off , and they will be hard to start . But ... after re-reading your post , you've probably already checked that .

Dave

 

[miraclegro]

Thanks Dave, checked that, but and it was a little off but it didnt make much of a difference.

 

[loren]

Our 335 cold starts quickly so long as you start cranking with the choke full on. Always blows some white smoke at start hot or cold.

KAW says to adjust the valves every 300 hours. Ours bent the left push rods at 328 hours. Intake valve guide pushed part way out and valve lip and seat burnt.

Replaced head, valves and push rods. No problems since.

I pull the top shroud and check the head & cylinder fins for grass build up monthly.